Tech 6100 almost there I think

gatordad

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Long story short it worked when I bought it a few months ago
Spot killer started so I figure I'll bullet proof it so it's good for a while

I've capped it and installed additional parts as well including a lv2000

After I finished I powered it up and I blew a resistor it was r712

This is my first xy monitor attempt and I already don't like them

I gave up and a friend was nice enough to have worked on it and he got it working, I seen the monitor running a test pattern off of a test pattern generator.

Does a test pattern generator put the monitor under the same load like a game does?
Read below that's why I ask

I bring it home plug it in to my star wars game and I blow the games main fuse while the spot killer was on (this is where I started from)

I just moved the game into the basement so the main fuse holder could have come loose, anyway I replace that and try again

I immediately blow f100 and f101
I check power to the monitor , checks good
I check all voltages coming off the ar2 all check good

I replaced the fuses and test in my space duel still blows both fuses right away

I read and blowing those fuses is usually a bad chassis transistor
I test all the chassis transistors and I took out both on p100

I replace those test for shorts ( none)
Try again in my star wars and now I'm popping one of the diodes d101
And the fuses are still glowing ( f100 and f101)
What's going on here
Ideas?
 
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Edited my post I took out both chassis transistors at p100 not 600 my bad it was late. So Q102 and 103
 
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Well I tested everything again after I blew d101

I found D100 was shorted, hmmmm
Also found q102 was toast for a second time

I replaced both d100, d101, and q102 and tested all the chassis transistors again, looks good on paper.

I'm going to test this in my space duel a second time as I found the shorted d100 since the last time I tried it.
 
Before I plugged this into my space duel I checked all 4 of the the heatsink transistors for shorts and they all checked out good,

I was following the flowchart and unplugged all the chassis mounted transistor plugs, plugged it in the space duel and.......

Well good news is I did not blow any more fuses but when I powered on, one of the transistors on the 6100 board smoked and melted. (the one on the right)

Any one know what two transistors are on a lv6100?

Could a bad transistor on the lv6100 cause my fuses to blow and pop the diode to begin with?

I have an extra lv2000 laying around, install it and try again?
 
30 year old electronics don't need a reason to fail they just do. To answer your question there is little chance that your lv200 had any correlation to one of the big bridge diodes to fail.
 
Wow, I hate to see that you've had so much trouble with that. Generally I've had very good luck with 6100's. I'm no expert at them so I doubt that I can be of any help troubleshooting. Usually I just buy the deluxe Bob Roberts kit along with the LV2000 and shotgun the thing and they are fairly stable after that. Good luck though!
 
Would a bad diode at d100 or d101 take out the lv6100 board?
or do I have other issues to find before trying again.
 
Do you know for sure that the game boards in the machines are putting out good vector voltages for the 6100? If you have bad voltages, the spot killer will come on.

I am a little confused as you said you installed a lv2000 in your first post and a lv6100 in post number 4. The kits are completely different. The LV6100 uses voltage regulators that put out 24 volts (plus and minus). Which little board are you using in the LV section of the 6100? It does make a difference. BTW, if you are using LV2000, it is covered under a guarantee. See here:

http://www.vector-repair.com/

I follow all of your posts up to the point of blowing the transistor on the right in post number 4. Are you talking about the transistor on the right on the little board (LV board) I don't think that you had a low voltage correction board and it caused a problem with the diodes, I think you had bad voltage coming in and caused problems to the LV board. Are you sure that you put the correct bottlecap transistors on the frame where they belong? Look at the pictures in the manual to be sure.

Now some important questions:

1. Did any of your vector games have know good pictures coming from them? There is a chance that your power brick might have a bad rectifier which would cause the main game fuse to blow or perhaps some loose screws running around in the bottom of the cabinet that might be shorting things out. Those big diodes on the deflection board in the D00-104 range are part of a rectifying circuit and if they are bad, they will cause the fuses to blow on the 6100 deflection board. If none of your games are known to have good picture output, then I would start there before starting on the monitor. Verify the voltages on the big plug that connect to the 6100 are correct before plugging it into the deflection board.

2. When you are testing the transistors (bottlecap) on the monitor, are you using the diode test portion of the multi-meter or just the continuity portion? There is a difference. There is a description of how to test transistors in the 6100 faq located on ionpool.net. You need to have all of the red connectors on the deflection board disconnected to test the transistors properly. To make sure I have the transistors installed in the proper location, I use this memory jogger. "Blue uses the 2" That is, if there is a blue wire running to a transistor, then it should be a 2N3792. The 2N3716 is used on the other connector. They are installed in pairs so you should have 3 sets of them. You need to use a mica insulator on each of them and make sure that none of the pins or the transistor itself have any continuity or ground to frame, If you do, check your installation or you will be buying transistors and diodes.

Start here and Report back.
 
Do you know for sure that the game boards in the machines are putting out good vector voltages for the 6100? If you have bad voltages, the spot killer will come on.

I have a space duel and will test on that from now till I get this thing running, my SD is solid and working


I am a little confused as you said you installed a lv2000 in your first post and a lv6100 in post number 4. The kits are completely different. The LV6100 uses voltage regulators that put out 24 volts (plus and minus). Which little board are you using in the LV section of the 6100? It does make a difference. BTW, if you are using LV2000, it is covered under a guarantee. See here:

http://www.vector-repair.com/
Yes I initially installed a lv2000 and when I asked a friend to look at the monitor he removed the lv2000 and installed the lv6100

I have an extra lv2000 I was saving for my spare deflection board rebuild
but I would also like to repair the lv6100 to have on hand

I follow all of your posts up to the point of blowing the transistor on the right in post number 4. Are you talking about the transistor on the right on the little board (LV board) I don't think that you had a low voltage correction board and it caused a problem with the diodes, I think you had bad voltage coming in and caused problems to the LV board. Are you sure that you put the correct bottlecap transistors on the frame where they belong? Look at the pictures in the manual to be sure.

Yes I am talking about the lv6100 transistors the one on the right side of the board when looking in from the back burned up and melted.

Now some important questions:

1. Did any of your vector games have know good pictures coming from them? There is a chance that your power brick might have a bad rectifier which would cause the main game fuse to blow or perhaps some loose screws running around in the bottom of the cabinet that might be shorting things out. Those big diodes on the deflection board in the D00-104 range are part of a rectifying circuit and if they are bad, they will cause the fuses to blow on the 6100 deflection board. If none of your games are known to have good picture output, then I would start there before starting on the monitor. Verify the voltages on the big plug that connect to the 6100 are correct before plugging it into the deflection board.

I verified that my ar2 was good I checked all voltages
I verified that the monitor was receiving 48vac from the transformer,
I stopped there and have not checked my Star Wars board yet for voltages but it comes up without the monitor plugged in (says may the force be with you), but like I said I will test this in my Space Duel till its working.

2. When you are testing the transistors (bottlecap) on the monitor, are you using the diode test portion of the multi-meter or just the continuity portion? There is a difference. There is a description of how to test transistors in the 6100 faq located on ionpool.net. You need to have all of the red connectors on the deflection board disconnected to test the transistors properly. To make sure I have the transistors installed in the proper location, I use this memory jogger. "Blue uses the 2" That is, if there is a blue wire running to a transistor, then it should be a 2N3792. The 2N3716 is used on the other connector. They are installed in pairs so you should have 3 sets of them. You need to use a mica insulator on each of them and make sure that none of the pins or the transistor itself have any continuity or ground to frame, If you do, check your installation or you will be buying transistors and diodes.

Start here and Report back.

Yes all chassis mount transistors were checked with diode setting and verified with either open or correct range values .4 to .9. no shorts to the chassis

All are correctly in the proper place, I did make a dumb mistake and swap the plugs for the side mounted transistors but thats behind me now. ;)
 
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Okay. Unplug the HV cage from the monitor but leave it sitting in there. (2 connectors) Hook up your monitor and turn on the power. Do you have deflection chatter and does the spot killer go out? Sometimes you have to listen closely to hear the chatter.
 
Okay. Unplug the HV cage from the monitor but leave it sitting in there. (2 connectors) Hook up your monitor and turn on the power. Do you have deflection chatter and does the spot killer go out? Sometimes you have to listen closely to hear the chatter.

Ill have to swap out that burnt up lv6100 with my extra lv2000
If I don't get time tomorrow this will sit a week as my evenings are filled over the Holiday weekend.
 
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