TC4049bp replacement part or alternative?

[jcar302]

I know this may be a simple question for some of you guys, for me, not so much.

I'm fixing a bally pinball display where the comma is stuck on (bally game show, right display)
Stays lit even with J5 disconnected.
It is surely the display (tested in another machine and that said machines display worked fine in game show.
Followed a guide the pinside guys gave me to test with a probe.
It's really down to a TC4049bp, which seems to be a discontinued toshiba part or a 7180 (which i can take from old broken display boards i have on hand).
The 4049 on the spare parts displays are CD4049UBE, not sure if they are an alternative or not.

In reality there are only a few parts to go bad on the board anyway.
Yes i can solder and desolder.

It's just that i'm not so great at finding parts or alternatives, i don't necessarily have the vocabulary.

Can anyone tell me if the cd4049ube is a good substitute or what to buy to replace the tc4049bp?
Should it also be installed with a socket?
Thanks,
Joe

 

[rod90]

They are the same.

 

[Alpha-tron]

tc4049bp the p represents a dip package.
Cd4049ube is also a dip package..

If your really desperate to get a toshiba version from eBay.

Search for toshiba cd4049 and your part should pop up.

But..

Ebay has been known to sell counterfeit parts. Buyer beware.

Good luck

 

[jcar302]

Thanks for the replies,
Personally i don't care what i use as long as it works.

I had did an internet search for the two with vs and i was getting the idea that one was buffered and one was unbuffered (not that i have a clue what the hell that means in this case).

So if it's a match i'll just put one and use it.

I'm not really qualified to determine what alternatives are acceptable.

 

[jcar302]

Update, i swapped the parts out.
The 4049 didn't fix it.
But the 7180 did.
I also underestimated how time consuming it was to remove these 2 ic's intact.
I use a hakko fr300, but it was still a bit of a slow process.
Is there a trick to getting these things out fully intact?

 

[SNESNESCUBE64]

Is there a trick to getting these things out fully intact?

-flow new solder
-make sure your desolder gun is free of clogs and has a good filter
-personally I wiggle the chip with a pair of pliers from side to side (do not pull) to loosen up a bit what might still be there
-have patience, it takes time to do it right and not pull pads and traces. Rush jobs lead to you wasting more time fixing screwups