Tapper Owners - Do your Tap/Pour Handles rotate? End that nonsense and lock them down how Midway may have intended :)

In all the years I worked in the arcade business (83to 90) I never saw the handles locked down, maybe it was intended to and possibly in the test market it was left out due to abuse on them, my cocktail has the hole but I never put the set screw in, I like they move it doesn't really bother me
 
Does nobody else have nylon set screws in theirs? My Tapper handles can rotate if you try, but they don't freely rotate because of the friction from the screw. I assumed this was done to prevent broken tap handles from someone grabbing and rotating, which would likely break the taps if they were locked down tight. My nylon screws look pretty old, but maybe they're not OEM? Doesn't look like the exploded diagram shows anything.

I've come across freely rotating taps in the wild, but just assumed they needed their set screws tightened.

DogP
This is very cool to see. Especially with others reporting having nylon set screws also.

This would seem to suggest the Tap handles weren't intended to rotate freely. Maybe they stripped out over time like @FlashbackArcade shared and never were replaced.

Can prescribe to the theory of fixed Taps potentially getting broken in a commercial setting. If someone breaks my handles they will be banned, 😂

Stopped by @z0ner's with the intent to install set screws, but his Tap handles didn't have the threaded hole. Pretty certain his are dedicated taps, but Galaga based. We will have to drill and tap at some point. His was a lower serial number, which reminds me I need to check mine.

Thought over the years I've seen the ability to create polls, but I don't see that option. It's interesting to see the number of rotating Taps vs fixed.

The currently tally seems abut 50/50 based on the responses so far.
 
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Well, I just looked and mine actually don't have the hole either. I don't have a drill press so might be SOL on this.
If would like it done, an option could be to send me just the part needing modification.. then could be returned along with a set screw. I have a mechanical background by trade, prior to becoming a stupervisor. 😂

I also have access to a machinist and other mechanics who could easily do the job.


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Based on @ChanceKJ's detailed post and photo this is the part would be need to to be modified.

Removed the initial offer to fabricate a new one.. Didn't realize the bracket and bushings are part of it. Was thinking it was the thimble only, 😂

Fabricating could be done, however it would take too much time. 😂
 
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The plot thickens, I have a Tapper cocktail (which I'll be posting for sale soon) and it's taps are locked in place. Do these use the same exact part? Hard to tell.

Ill let ya know @fatherpain . I am gonna see if any of my buddies have a drill press first. I think better to mod this one than go thru the effort of swapping the cocktail.
 
@LittleLarrySellr sounds good. Hmm that's interesting about your cocktail handles. Am curious how your Taps are fixed, if it were with a steel or nylon set screw or by another method entirely. Edit: @Digindug82 reported his cocktail handles have a hole.

My UR is sn# 01727
 
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Thanks,

…except for the fact that the CPO is delaminating 😐 not really happy about that. Both the front and back of the top edge and around the start buttons. The polycarbonate laminate is starting to peel back and bubble from the art layer on my brand new CPO.

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Not to derail, but I noticed that too. Can I ask where you got your CPO? I've got one coming from PA because someone deconverted the control panel and did it badly. I'm doing a proper restore on it.
 
Not to derail, but I noticed that too. Can I ask where you got your CPO? I've got one coming from PA because someone deconverted the control panel and did it badly. I'm doing a proper restore on it.

It came from PA.

I feel like the product being used for the polycarbonate layer is just the wrong product. It doesn't do bends well, and was originally probably just meant for floor decals. Just a theory. Maybe I should be using a heat gun here?

I have the same extreme bends on my Tempest cocktail overlays from PA and they haven't delaminated at all, so I really don't know what the deal is.

I've been meaning to contact him about it but I honestly don't know what can be done other than replacing it but I bought it over a year and a half ago in preparation for this project. 🤷‍♂️
 
I could see that they probably originally thought it was good idea to tap them, but then realized it was too easy to break the taps. Better to just let them rotate than have a game down due to broken controls.
 
Well lets be honest, even if they were fixed in place and the users "broke" them, all they'd be doing is breaking the set screws hold on the handles. The game would still be playable and only the screw would need to be tightened again.
 
It came from PA.

I feel like the product being used for the polycarbonate layer is just the wrong product. It doesn't do bends well, and was originally probably just meant for floor decals. Just a theory. Maybe I should be using a heat gun here?

I have the same extreme bends on my Tempest cocktail overlays from PA and they haven't delaminated at all, so I really don't know what the deal is.

I've been meaning to contact him about it but I honestly don't know what can be done other than replacing it but I bought it over a year and a half ago in preparation for this project. 🤷‍♂️
Ugh, that's discouraging. If I have better luck with the application I'll let you know. I'll use a tiny bit of heat as well.
 
Ugh, that's discouraging. If I have better luck with the application I'll let you know. I'll use a tiny bit of heat as well.
@nash aka Ataricade, the person showed me, would clamp and preform the CPO to the control panel for weeks before applying. I do the same. Heat sometimes.

But I've had both NOS and Repro overlays develop spider cracks at hard bends. Believe in my case, it's more to do with keeping the games in the garcade where it's not climate controlled as much as our house is.
 
i like the idea of nylon set screws in case someone tried to turn it better to slip than break the handle, obviously more important in an arcade environment compared to at home

my all original early cabinet (color sideart, s/n 400 something iirc) does not have the threaded holes, worthy to note but unfortunate

but I may well add them due to this thread
 
i like the idea of nylon set screws in case someone tried to turn it better to slip than break the handle, obviously more important in an arcade environment compared to at home

my all original early cabinet (color sideart, s/n 400 something iirc) does not have the threaded holes, worthy to note but unfortunate

but I may well add them due to this thread
I don't think nylon is good enough. I verified today that my friend's Root Beer Tapper has nylon and there's barely any resistance. Presumably because it's loosened over time but he's still going to replace with set screws.

I agree with the blue loctite, and suggested it to @fatherpain last night. I still need to drill and tap mine (or buy Tom a few payment beers :D )
 
i like the idea of nylon set screws in case someone tried to turn it better to slip than break the handle, obviously more important in an arcade environment compared to at home

my all original early cabinet (color sideart, s/n 400 something iirc) does not have the threaded holes, worthy to note but unfortunate

but I may well add them due to this thread

So after reading this i was curious so I just put some serious force in to mine to test, the screw slips at a point, but even with a ton of force nothings snapping or breaking with any kind of standard game play. I bet even on location all that would end up happening would be the handles go back to spinning slightly.

Ideally one could also use a file to put a small flat spot on the backs of the tap handle shaft and they won't go anywhere when you clamp that setscrew down.
 
So after reading this i was curious so I just put some serious force in to mine to test, the screw slips at a point, but even with a ton of force nothings snapping or breaking with any kind of standard game play. I bet even on location all that would end up happening would be the handles go back to spinning slightly.

Ideally one could also use a file to put a small flat spot on the backs of the tap handle shaft and they won't go anywhere when you clamp that setscrew down.
That's a cool test.

In lieu of filing a flat spot (which would work)…. How about shaving the tip of the set screw to a sharp point, which will allow it to dig into the shaft a little when tightened?
 
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