Taito Power Supply for Qix

I personally dont like the 4600 either. They are decent monitors once working.
Hook the monitor up to something else and see if maybe its just a connection issue in the game.
Check the ribbon cable/connectors in the area where the battery is, they get corroded. Usually reseating them a few times does the trick but in some cases you will need to scrape the pins to get the corrosion off.

Well, the chassis wasn't hooked up when I got the game. The guy had swapped them at some point. It was hanging in by one screw, so I zip tied it to the frame just to get it home. I am going to look the two chassis over to see what parts are the best looking and will put that chassis in and give it a go. I wouldn't be surprised if they worked at this point since everything else has, but needed a little love.

The ribbon cables and connections all looked great. The battery could stand to be replaced, but they soldered off-board a few inches. They just soldered a Radioshack Ni-Cad battery to some wires.

-VJ
 
Ok I see now. So the chassis wasnt hooked up to begin with. I was under the impression the monitor was working but stopped working after you reseated the cables.
 
Ok I see now. So the chassis wasnt hooked up to begin with. I was under the impression the monitor was working but stopped working after you reseated the cables.

Yeah, sometimes it is hard to follow peoples ramblings. :) Playing blind was expected with the chassis upstairs an the game out in the garage. I was stoked to hear it working through. Those sounds brought back some arcade memories. Tonight I will probably go through the chassis and try one out.
 
The Elevator Action I just bought has a switcher installed. The original power board is still sitting in the bottom of the cabinet. Don't know if it works or not. I was going to remove it in any case, and mount the switcher in its place.
 
The Elevator Action I just bought has a switcher installed. The original power board is still sitting in the bottom of the cabinet. Don't know if it works or not. I was going to remove it in any case, and mount the switcher in its place.

I knew you got a better deal. :) The guy I bought the Qix from tried to get $30 more out of me for a switcher with the Arcadeshop adaptor. While $30 isn't a bad price for that, but I didn't want to put more money into the game since nothing was known to be working. For all I knew, he fried the switcher too...
 
Cleaning out the bottom of my cabinet today. Since I have a switcher I wanted to removed the badly damaged original power board. I pulled it out and turned on the game, and it was frozen. So the game is still getting some voltage from the power board to reset the game. My switcher is hooked up straight with no adaptor, and it still needs the original power board to reset. Does the switcher adaptor from Arcadeshop.com have the ability to reset the game, so I can eliminate the old burnt up crappy board, that I still have to have power running through to get the game to work? The bridge recitifier is melted!!!!
 
Cleaning out the bottom of my cabinet today. Since I have a switcher I wanted to removed the badly damaged original power board. I pulled it out and turned on the game, and it was frozen. So the game is still getting some voltage from the power board to reset the game. My switcher is hooked up straight with no adaptor, and it still needs the original power board to reset. Does the switcher adaptor from Arcadeshop.com have the ability to reset the game, so I can eliminate the old burnt up crappy board, that I still have to have power running through to get the game to work? The bridge recitifier is melted!!!!

I'm not sure what the arcade shop adaptor provides. It must do something about the -12V DC though. The Taito power supply outputs +/- 5VDC and +/-12 VDC. I think that is why Mark said to throw a PC power supply in there since they supply all 4 voltages and most switchers supply 3. You might take a picture of what is hooked up and post it and we can figure out what is still being covered. It does seem like someone said earlier in this thread that there was some need for "reset" functionality in the switcher adaptor.
 
I took some photos of the setup inside my cab. Yes it makes me cringe to see the woderful engineering feets that were taken here with the wiring. This is a fire waiting to happen. You'll also see why I want this board out.
 

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I took some photos of the setup inside my cab. Yes it makes me cringe to see the woderful engineering feets that were taken here with the wiring. This is a fire waiting to happen. You'll also see why I want this board out.

Yeah, pin 14 that is still hooked up is providing the Reset functionality. I would expect the switcher adaptor to provide that feature, but it isn't clear that it does. You could use a PC power supply as mark stated as they actually provide the reset line needed. Check out this link that explains how to do the hookup.

http://www.arcadecollecting.com/info/qix_to_PCAT_power.txt

You could email arcadeshop and ask them if their adaptor handles the reset line or not. Of course since they only sell the board and switcher as a set, I would probably just use a PC power supply. ;)

Here is the link where the guy was talking about doing the PC power supply mod.

http://www.o-sd.com/arcadecollecting/forum/index.php?topic=119.0

-VJ
 
Yes the adapter has the reset built on it. Thats really the only purpose of it other then not having to make up your own plug.
 
VectorJunkie, remove the filter board and look at the back of it. Mine was cold solder joint city. I reflowed all the pins, and Holy @$#@#$, the picture looks so much better. I was missing colors because of cold solder joints.

My wife asked me tonight when I am going to get the control panel on the game, so she can try it out.
 
VectorJunkie, remove the filter board and look at the back of it. Mine was cold solder joint city. I reflowed all the pins, and Holy @$#@#$, the picture looks so much better. I was missing colors because of cold solder joints.

My wife asked me tonight when I am going to get the control panel on the game, so she can try it out.

I will go through that board tonight. The chassis I tried last night doesn't look like it even had a width coil. The second one has one hanging off the side, so I will try that one tonight. Thanks for the pointer.

-VJ
 
Installed a AT power supply into the cab today. Works out awesome. Now I can remove the burned up power board.

Ordering a control panel for the cab tomorrow.
 
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Installed a AT power supply into the cab today. Works out awesome. Now I can removed the burned up power board.

Ordering a control panel for the cab tomorrow.

Glad you making progress. I'm stalled for the moment and need to throw that second chassis in the game still. The first one gave me a nice whiteish glowing line across the center of the tube about 2" tall. Probably because the lack of a width coil. At least the tube isn't dead though.
 
Glad you making progress. I'm stalled for the moment and need to throw that second chassis in the game still. The first one gave me a nice whiteish glowing line across the center of the tube about 2" tall. Probably because the lack of a width coil. At least the tube isn't dead though.

Ok, threw the other chassis in there and I can see elements of the screen, but can't get it adjusted correctly. It is wrapping about 2 to 3 times. This chassis had a width coil, but it is pretty f'ed up looking and hanging off the side. Anyway, since I can see the Qix graphics in there, this chassis is at least worth rebuilding. Now to try to find a good width coil for this stupid thing and cap it.

-VJ
 
VJ, did you ever get this thing to live again?

Yeah, I rebuilt the monitor with that second chassis I had. The cabinet still needs to be restored something awful. It has been in storage for a couple years while we were overseas. I'm going to try and restore the cabinet this summer so I can bring it in the house.
 
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