t-molding from Mike's?

Has anyone purchased the flat t-molding for Nintendo cabs on mikes? How close is it to the original or how well does it stack against choppingquarters?

I have, it's just "ok" ,,, but Chompping Quarters is dead on.
 
To be fair, the reproduction "true-flat" t-molding is considerably softer than the original and can be permanently dented with a fingernail.

There is no acceptable replacement currently made IMO.
 
To be fair, the reproduction "true-flat" t-molding is considerably softer than the original and can be permanently dented with a fingernail.

There is no acceptable replacement currently made IMO.

That is because the 30 year old stuff is hardened plastic now. That stuff will give you some nice cuts when you are removing it. Show me any new molding you can't put a dent in. :rolleyes:
 
That is because the 30 year old stuff is hardened plastic now. That stuff will give you some nice cuts when you are removing it. Show me any new molding you can't put a dent in. :rolleyes:

Incorrect.

It is because audiomidiman made the decision to go with flexible PVC construction - for ease of production and lack of definitive knowledge of the original material. I'll direct you to his post where he acknowledges this and the differences in gloss finish between the original and reproduction : http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1460499&postcount=24

I'm not saying it's not great for some, it's just not correct.
 
Yes, you are right, it is different. I knew I shouldn't have gotten into this. All I said was any new molding can be dented and this looks closer to original than any other option. Maybe you can come up with a better product?
 
wow thanks for the advice, looks like I'll have to go with choppingquarters instead - but it also sounds like I'll have to be super careful from denting it. Its too bad reproductions can't be right on.

Other things I'll be looking to do is replace nintendo joystick and buttons from Mikes, is it true he sells the best reproductions on those?

I suppose the alternative would be the find a original and clean it up...suggestions? thoughts?

I want to put this machine as close to its glory from 1982 as possible!
 
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Other things I'll be looking to do is replace nintendo joystick and buttons from Mikes, is it true he sells the best reproductions on those?

MikesArcade has the best reporductions of buttons and the joystick. The joystick is great, but expensive. The buttons are standard buttons that have been altered to fit and original CPO without having the fitting issues. That's nice since I had purchased some buttons from TwistedQuarter a while back and found out that you had to make the button holes in the CPO bigger for them to fit. HOWEVER....


I suppose the alternative would be the find a original and clean it up...suggestions? thoughts?

I want to put this machine as close to its glory from 1982 as possible!


If you are wanting your machine as close to its former glory as possible then you should definitely get some original parts and clean them up. The joystick will be a lot cheaper than MikesArcade, but the buttons will definitely be moe expensive. That's if you get nice buttons without cig burns. Even the cig burned buttons can be a little more expensive than the price of MikesArcade buttons, but the new buttons are not a correct color match to the originals.


I am always in the boat of cleaning an original game up and leaving any of the small, cosmetic bumps and bruises alone. It gives the game character...like in a pevious life the game was not just enjoyed by you and your friends/family, but by many others.
 
Frankly none of mikes repro for DK are great repros of the originals, I have seen and or owned most. Blues button wrong color, and there never tall enough either...this being said I will and have still ordered and will continue to due to great customer service
 
wow thanks for the advice, looks like I'll have to go with choppingquarters instead - but it also sounds like I'll have to be super careful from denting it. Its too bad reproductions can't be right on.

The material is strong. I've sanded, beat the hell out of it, polished it, etc... and held up just as good as other current t-molding that is currently available.

The biggest issue you may have is if you beat the hell out of it with a rubber mallet when installing the molding will follow the contour of any imperfections of your cabinet matting surface. Best to get a flat piece of wood and "tap tap tap" into place. The material is thin because it is the "exact" profile of the original nintendo molding.

From my site (and included this printout with every order for several months and might have to start including it again)...

1. Make sure your mating surface is flat, smooth and clean of any debris.

2. If the mating surface isn't flat or smooth, it is recommended that you use a sanding block and "slowly" smooth it out. (Please Note: If you have applied vinyl to the sides it is not recommended that you sand the matting surface)

3. On the flat cabinet sections use a clean/straight/smooth piece of wood and a rubber mallet to install. Taking care to set the molding continuously at the same height (once again material will follow imperfections in your cabinet if you are too aggressive).

4. To create perfectly smooth inside and outside radii you may have to remove a section of the barb.
 
IMO the "dentability" of CQ's t-molding is really overblown here (might not have been the intention but I think that's the end result when you read this thread). I've got the offset variety which IIRC is the same material and I have to say that you certainly don't need to worry about the durability. In a normal collector's environment it is going to hold up perfectly well. So don't give it a second thought unless you have reason to think it's going to take a beating for some reason. But even then, it's not like "standard" t molding is bullet proof either.

Buy Bill's t molding. It is a great product and he's done a big favor to the community by getting this made. After all, he's not some big online retailer or something - he's just one of us.
 
IMO the "dentability" of CQ's t-molding is really overblown here (might not have been the intention but I think that's the end result when you read this thread). I've got the offset variety which IIRC is the same material and I have to say that you certainly don't need to worry about the durability. In a normal collector's environment it is going to hold up perfectly well. So don't give it a second thought unless you have reason to think it's going to take a beating for some reason. But even then, it's not like "standard" t molding is bullet proof either.

Buy Bill's t molding. It is a great product and he's done a big favor to the community by getting this made. After all, he's not some big online retailer or something - he's just one of us.

+1

I have true flat on my Mario Widebody and the Offset on my DK. Both fit perfectly and installed without any issue. It is amazing the difference of a machine with old molding that yellowed over time, and Bill's repo molding.

Thanks again Bill! :beerchug:
 
I have the Mikes stuff and I like it more than the flat stuff, the flat stuff looks well..flat, the Mikes stuff has a slightly rounded edge which I think looks and feels fantastic.
 
I have the Mikes stuff and I like it more than the flat stuff, the flat stuff looks well..flat, the Mikes stuff has a slightly rounded edge which I think looks and feels fantastic.

And I've said before... Mike's molding is nice IMO... blkdog7 has Mike's on all of his Nintendo's and he's not going to swap it all out!

Choices are good in this situation.
 
And I've said before... Mike's molding is nice IMO... blkdog7 has Mike's on all of his Nintendo's and he's not going to swap it all out!

Choices are good in this situation.

I agree choices are good, figured I give him an opinion on the stuff he originally posted about, everybody raves about the flat stuff on here so...:D;)
 
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