T-Molding channel swollen...best solution ?

mike boss

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Just noticed that my t-molding slot is wider than the channel on the t-molding itself.
It's not staying in place.
Is the best solution to use hot glue and glue it in place?
 
You'd do better in the "Restorations, Cabinets, and Cosmetics" section with this question.
 
Just noticed that my t-molding slot is wider than the channel on the t-molding itself.
It's not staying in place.
Is the best solution to use hot glue and glue it in place?

I tried that and it was a disaster. I then had the project of digging out the hot glue. Trust me, it won't work well. Say you can't get the t-molding in the slot perfectly even before the hot glue sets and it set FAST. You then have an uneven mess, but you can't pound the molding in any further, but it's now hard to remove. When you pull the molding out, and some tore and stayed in the slot for me, I had to use dental picks to dig the rubbery glue out.

Best thing is how I fixed mine - Cut some strips of scrap wood so that they fit almost snug into the slot. Go along the slot, gluing the wood strips in, using a carpenters glue - Elmers or Titebond. After it fully dries, trim the overhang, either with a chisel, or easier with a flush trim bit on a router. Then, use a router and a 1/16" slot cutting bit, centered on the panel, to recut the slot. The new t-molding will then fit perfectly. Sounds like work, but after trying the shortcut with hot glue, I had a lot more work undoing that.
 
I just ordered some wider T-Molding for a cab I have with a worn groove. (Black)

The tongue on the T-Molding is 3.2mm, the original was 2.4mm

What color is yours?
 
The molding I need is white.
I haven't received the molding I just ordered, I'm hoping its suitable.
The molding I picked up locally prior was not, I used it for testing purposes.
So this will be a different supplier, fingers crossed.
 
I had this problem with my Xybots. I used wood glue in the channel and masking tape to hold the glued t-molding in place. I went slowly and carefully to make sure everything was flush and the way I wanted it after the glue would be set. The molding has been in place for several years now.
 
I recently did the same on a cab that wouldn't stay down on some bends. Used the Gorilla Glue wood glue. A small dab in the channel, then put the t-molding in. Used some painters tape to hold it down for 20 mins, then pulled the tape off and the t-molding was held in place...
 
I had this problem once, I did the easiest thing imaginable, I just cut some thin strips of paper towels. Put it along the slot before I pushed the T-molding into it. I think I had to double it up in spots but at the end of the day it was enough to fill the gap and the t molding went into place tightly… it worked slick! No glue, no clamping it into place till it dried… quick and simple! ;)
 
Usually this happens with age and if the cabinet were stored in a damp area. Over the years the wood can expand and contract. My best practice on this, as is with any cabinet, first thing that comes off is the old beat up T-molding. I'll then go over the channel with just a scrape of bondo throughout the entire channel. Sand it smooth so the only bondo evident is in the channel. Taking a dremel and cutting bit, along with some safety glasses, you can then rechannel it. Should be snug enough to take a rubber mallet and tap the new t-molding into place. http://www.zinfer.com/asteroids.htm

Just noticed that my t-molding slot is wider than the channel on the t-molding itself.
It's not staying in place.
Is the best solution to use hot glue and glue it in place?
 
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Funny enough I used cardboard on areas of my Donkey Kong Jr where the molding didnt stay.
I have a very "limited" tool box and used glue on a prior bar top unit. But like mentioned in this thread it was a hot mess, and left an uneven look.

I was hoping for something easy and I think paper towel or cardboard it is !

Thanks all
 
Hm... I may have to test this on my Robot Monsters. I wanted to replace all the molding, but after redoing the sides of the control panel and ending up having to cut new pieces to get a profile look I was hesitant to say the least.
 
I use folded over sand paper pieces on the groove. Grips both the wood and the T-molding!
 
I wonder if I could just swap a layer or two of Kilz in the channel? That stuff fills/piles pretty good.
 
I've used card stock, cut into little strips, fold them in half long ways, held them over the t and pushed the paper and the t-molding in at the same time. It worked great.
 
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