T molding and laminated sides

[creepykenny]

my dumbass question of the day

is routing the slot for T molding done before laminating the sides or is cut it after laminating the sides? presuming we are using vertical grade laminate

and if done before, how does one set the depth correctly?

 

[Lamonsoff]

If possible before. I've had matte black laminate scratch from the laminate shavings. If you do router after, line the edges with masking tape to prevent scratches.

Depth of the route is determined by the blade and bearing size. Nothing to set.

 

[creepykenny]

Thanks for the excellent reply

I of course worded my question incorrectly

to clarify: centering the slot cut in the material is what i am actually referring to, not the depth of the cut (my dumbassed thinking with the cabinet on its side i'm thinking depth of cut but its actually just centering the cut)

i'll just put the slot cutting bit a hair off center towards the side which will receive the laminate and avoid scratching it

 

[bdn103]

Personally, I mask and cut afterwards (If I need to mask). I should also note that it seems to depend on the laminate if scratching is an issue. Clean work surface with air to remove the cuttings while you go eliminates most of the problems. When I cut before, I never seem to find the middle perfectly and have to trim the T-molding.

I should also note that if I scratch build, I use full thickness laminate on the outside on plywood. With how much thinner plywood is from 3/4", thickness is perfect when adding full thickness laminate. If I am restoring a cabinet, I use vertical grade laminate..... but I don't have to re-cut the t-molding slot.

Brian

 

[GORFguyOhio]

Before you do all that, I will tell you from my own experience that I used 13/16'" t molding after I laminate.
This gave me a perfect fit on the outside edge, and only a 1/32" edge on the inside. You basically don't even notice.
Just thought I'd throw that at you before you think you have to cut a a new slot.

 

[creepykenny]

this will be or is a new scratch build, need to get out the micrometer and measure the plywood i am using to find out what thickness laminate i need to achieve the finished 3/4"

 

[alfonzotan]

The one time I did this, I think I did it before, but that was like 10 years ago and I can't swear to it. Just make sure you rout the channel offset by about 1/16" so the T-molding will cover the edge of the laminate.

 

[bdn103]

this will be or is a new scratch build, need to get out the micrometer and measure the plywood i am using to find out what thickness laminate i need to achieve the finished 3/4"

Please check.... It does vary significantly. If I buy good high ply baltic birch, it is nearly dead on to 3/4". The furniture grade plywood from the big box store is significantly thinner. For me, I can use one sheet of full thickness on the outside and black paint on the inside, or laminate both sides with vertical grade (pain in the ass and not recommended).

Brian

 

[blown23t]

I cut the t-molding slot after the laminate is on. then I find the center of the total thickness of it, then cut it..

 

[creepykenny]

using birch plywood measuring 0.700"
so if i used VG lam it would add 0.028" for a rough total of maybe 0.731?
horizontal lam would be 0.035" getting me closer to 0.750 at my estimate of a total maybe 0.738"
not sure what the glue adds to the total thickness but looks like i will be using horizontal grade laminate at least on the sides

 

[bdn103]

Just went to measure my reactor scratch built and a few other things because of this thread.

Big box store furniture grade with 1 side primed and painted came in at .718".

Same wood with Wilsonart horizontal laminate and paint on the other side (no primer) came out to .748".

For reference, my 3/4" black melamine came out at .759".
My white melamine (big box store) .766".

Baltic birch 3/4" came in at .731".

I have also seen variations of almost 1/8" in a single sheet of plywood before.

Brian