Sync issues

Reddogg

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I've got a Pro Vision Tovis CGA monitor model MTG-1901 CN that worked perfectly, hardly used with an excellent picture, until I decided to switch cabs. In order to fit it in the new cab, I had to pound on the side of the monitor frame a little bit with a hammer. I know...not the best idea, but I only needed a little bit of clearance.

Anyway, after hooking it up in new cab, I can't get it to sync at all. It's not a pin issue. I have it hooked up the same as in first cab, composite to neg hor sync, and all I get is what looks like CRAZY vert and hor scrolling going on, with a high pitched whining sound (similar to a bad flyback). Adjusting the vert and hor hold does nothing, and if I disconnect the sync pin from the monitor harness, the whining sound stops (so doesn't indicate bad flyback), and the crazy scrolling on the screen settles down a bit, but of course still does not sync.

I then tried it in the first cab again, where it used to work beautifully, but now the same problem.

Apparently, the shock of hitting the frame with a hammer broke something in the vert hold, or hor hold, or the oscillator section...maybe?

Stupid idea to hit frame with hammer! But, I was nowhere near any components when I did it.

NOW I had the bright idea to remove the chassis, and examined it,but I can't see any broken solder points/joints, or any broken pots.

Anyone experience this before, or know where to look?

Thanks.
 
I'd just like to add that a whining/squealing flyback is absolutely NO indication of a fault.

I've always heard that it was a possible indication. N/A here, but so I can learn more, can you tell me what to look for when it does come to flybacks?
 
What game is it in? There are certain games that will not sync with this monitor.

Also, there is usually a button on the chassis you can push to switch the sync from positive to negative input without changing the wiring. Perhaps it changed during the pounding.

If you really want to know if the chassis itself is a problem (besides that button), hook it back up to the game it worked with...
 
What game is it in? There are certain games that will not sync with this monitor.

Also, there is usually a button on the chassis you can push to switch the sync from positive to negative input without changing the wiring. Perhaps it changed during the pounding.

If you really want to know if the chassis itself is a problem (besides that button), hook it back up to the game it worked with...

I've done all of that already. It was and still is set to negative sync, and I put it back where it already worked perfectly with the same result.
 
I've always heard that it was a possible indication. N/A here, but so I can learn more, can you tell me what to look for when it does come to flybacks?
I've encountered the following faults, others may have more to add. Of course some of these can be caused by other components as well.

- Arcing.

- Picture blurry or too dark/bright and cannot be fixed by adjusting the monitor.

- Drifting focus or screen voltage.

- Screen intermittently "blinking" on and off.
 
I've encountered the following faults, others may have more to add. Of course some of these can be caused by other components as well.

- Arcing.

- Picture blurry or too dark/bright and cannot be fixed by adjusting the monitor.

- Drifting focus or screen voltage.

- Screen intermittently "blinking" on and off.

Cool thanks!
 
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