Swollen T-molding channel

hindered

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I've got a cabinet with side art that I'd like to preserve. The t-molding channel on one side is rotting/flaking/swollen and the t-molding had 20 or so nails holding it in place. I know the "right" answer to this is to use wood hardner, fill in the channels, sand, cut new channels, but I do not have the time, motivation, or tools to do this the "right" way.

That said, what is the "wrong, but good enough" way? Wood hardner to stop the decay from progressing, and then glue/clamps for the replacement tmolding? Gorilla Glue?
 
Here's a pic. It's not the best but you can see the t-molding channel on the left side. The top part of the cab is much worse.
 

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What is the goal of a wrong, but good enough way? Not trying to pick at you, but what do you plan on doing with it. I don't see any other way than hardener, fill with epoxy/bondo, and recut channel, but with all that work, might not be worthwhile with all the swelling/damage
 
Here's a pic. It's not the best but you can see the t-molding channel on the left side. The top part of the cab is much worse.

That's an interesting CP with the recessed buttons on the front. What game is / was it?
 
What is the goal of a wrong, but good enough way? Not trying to pick at you, but what do you plan on doing with it. I don't see any other way than hardener, fill with epoxy/bondo, and recut channel, but with all that work, might not be worthwhile with all the swelling/damage

Well, it's just a machine for myself, and it probably won't see much else in the way of restoration. I don't expect it to win any beauty contests, but I'd like the t-molding to be present and held in place wihtout nails :p

That's an interesting CP with the recessed buttons on the front. What game is / was it?

It's a mystery! http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=142437
 
Use the wood conditioner to harden things up & prevent more damage. You can use hot melt glue in the t-slot to hold the molding in place.
Gorilla Glue expands as it dries which may spread the cab even more & push the molding out of the slot while its drying.
Epoxy will hold it in, but it might give you lots of trouble if you ever want to take it out.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll get the wood hardener for sure and give thought to filling/rerouting. My boss has a router supposedly so maybe I'll end up going that route.
 
You could also use hot-glue in the channels. I woul still go with wood hardener, but if you don't want to fill/re-route... hot glue would hold it in.

I personally would fill and re-route... but hot glue would be a way to go.

Filling and re-routing could be done in a day.
 
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In the past, I have filled in the channels with bondo and then took a dremel tool with a wood disc to cut the new channel. First, id take a sharpie marker to draw a good line to cut. This works great for me.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll get the wood hardener for sure and give thought to filling/rerouting. My boss has a router supposedly so maybe I'll end up going that route.

Remember, the router will only follow the contours of the timber, so if your timber is not flat you may end up with a wavy t-mold slot, (IE Not a good result)
I am in the same boat with a battlezone machine. The art is good on a really crappy cab

I have no choice, the sides have to be re-made

All the best :)
 
Remember, the router will only follow the contours of the timber, so if your timber is not flat you may end up with a wavy t-mold slot, (IE Not a good result)
I am in the same boat with a battlezone machine. The art is good on a really crappy cab

I have no choice, the sides have to be re-made

All the best :)

This is the main reason I ended up going the hot glue route. I finally got around to buying wood hardner and a disposable brush on Saturday, and gave the rotted channels a good scraping out + 3-4 coats of hardener. I didn't take pictures of this process.

I then went ahead and filled the channels with hot glue and inserted t-molding, 4-5 inches at a time, holding it firm against the cab with my hands for a few minutes until it seemed solid. The results are not perfect, but neither is the cab, and I'm happy with the results for a minimum investment of time and money (about 45 minutes all told + 5 glue sticks). Here's some pics of how it turned out.
 

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This is the main reason I ended up going the hot glue route. I finally got around to buying wood hardner and a disposable brush on Saturday, and gave the rotted channels a good scraping out + 3-4 coats of hardener. I didn't take pictures of this process.

I then went ahead and filled the channels with hot glue and inserted t-molding, 4-5 inches at a time, holding it firm against the cab with my hands for a few minutes until it seemed solid. The results are not perfect, but neither is the cab, and I'm happy with the results for a minimum investment of time and money (about 45 minutes all told + 5 glue sticks). Here's some pics of how it turned out.

Hey, that looks pretty good to me! I am definitely on the same boat as you. I just dont have the time (or money) to do things the 100% right way (in most cases). If I can get something to work and look presentable, I am happy.
 
I live in a climate where it can reach 45 degrees C (113 deg F)

So will the glue melt in this temperature? I know some glue will lose its strength with heat

If the glue melts the T-mold will move etc
 
Hey, that looks pretty good to me! I am definitely on the same boat as you. I just dont have the time (or money) to do things the 100% right way (in most cases). If I can get something to work and look presentable, I am happy.

That looks 100% better. That side art is bad ass too!

Thanks guys. The cab is pretty beat up and abused, but the side art is just too cool to not try to save. It's not perfect, it's got more than its fair share of flaws and battle scars, but I'm glad to have it as part of my collection.
 
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