NEW Switching Power Supplies

I list used Screw Terminal power supplies for sale on this thread so people can put them in their game. I am NOT removing screw terminal power supplies in those games---just the old original ones. That's entirely different to what I was saying. Currently, we are not filming the actual installation of a screw terminal to an old game. However, I have just covered this in Bally's Strikes and Spares shuffle bowling alley a couple weeks ago, showing the wire colors and what to connect them to when converting from the old linear supply. Did you watch that video?
 
I list used Screw Terminal power supplies for sale on this thread so people can put them in their game. I am NOT removing screw terminal power supplies in those games---just the old original ones. That's entirely different to what I was saying. Currently, we are not filming the actual installation of a screw terminal to an old game. However, I have just covered this in Bally's Strikes and Spares shuffle bowling alley a couple weeks ago, showing the wire colors and what to connect them to when converting from the old linear supply. Did you watch that video?

not yet sir.. link?
 
I unboxed a suzo happ switching power supply today to use on a cabinet I'm putting together. It already had a switcher in it but the voltages were a bit off.
I figured I'd just grab the one I bought six months ago but hadn't used yet.
I installed it and all it did was buzz. No output voltages at all.
I really am not a fan of these chinese mass produced power supplies. The boards we use are precious so I wish we had another alternative when we don't have an old power supply to rebuild.
 
I unboxed a suzo happ switching power supply today to use on a cabinet I'm putting together. It already had a switcher in it but the voltages were a bit off.
I figured I'd just grab the one I bought six months ago but hadn't used yet.
I installed it and all it did was buzz. No output voltages at all.
I really am not a fan of these chinese mass produced power supplies. The boards we use are precious so I wish we had another alternative when we don't have an old power supply to rebuild.

Wiring in a computer supply is also a really reliable source. They typically have the voltages needed, some can allow 5v adjustment, too. Todd Tuckey showcased the variety they use in games. My Neo Geo 4 slot came with one of these from factory and it has 5v adjustment, quiet fans and is fused. Harness has wiring for game harness using a 12 pin 4 by 3 Molex and a separate set of wires for remote power and wires to get power to the Iso.
 
If a game has an old switching power supply in it, I always just replace it with a new one. And tend to stick with Suzo Happ 110/130W (I barely trust their product, not going to mess with no-brand stuff that is probably from India).

If a game has a linear, I usually rebuild it unless I'm adding a switcher or just need a temp fix. And I try to keep the wiring stock and leave the old stuff in there.

One exception to that though is Q*bert. Unless I can figure a way to reduce the tremendous heat I get from mine, it will stay a switcher.
 
I was thinking of starting a thread on a switcher related question, but I think this thread is fitting for this.

First, I'll start with, currently in 99% of my games I have original supplies. I'm planning on keeping things that way.

However, one benefit of switchers is efficiency. They should be more power efficient. Of course for most home use, this would not amount to a savings enough to recover the cost of the switcher and the time to put it in, but it is something that should fall in favor of the switcher.

What I'm curious about is failure modes and their effects on the voltage outputs to the boards.

Now, I'm sure there are failure modes that could do bad things in either supply, but I'm curious on a general level if a 'quality' switcher is 'safer' in terms of the chances of board damage occurring vs the linears. I doubt any arcade switcher is what I would call 'quality' (in terms of 20+ year longevity) unless I go through and replace all the caps with the best spec'd ones I could buy and made by a reputable cap maker. But I would think they would offer more protection in terms of when the fail vs some failures in linear supplies.

So, curious what folks think about that 'theory', and if there may be any truth to that.
 
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