NEW Switching Power Supplies

Wow, now we are concerned with 2 screw holes in a cab? Sheesh!



Really? That made me laugh out loud.

These cabs were made as cheap as possible with as inexpensive parts as could be found. Shoved out the door and into the Arcade without any thought or care for how long they would last.

They lasted 30+ years because most were used a lot for a year or two and then thrown in storage.

HAHAHA!

Excellent post!

(And I've repped you too recently. Bummer.)
 
Ok so what you are sayin is , your not following what i am talking about.

Im sayin what machines could use the assist of a switcher to make them run more reliable
for daily use.

would adding a switcher help the 12v feed to a space invaders?
or to the 5v of a pole position?
Does such a guide exist ?
Other than watching todd tuckey inplant them into machines at his shop but not show how he did it . I cant seem to find any info on this.

People are giving you advice and you aren't listening.

The old, linear power supplies are superior, after replacing caps and connectors.

All of the new switchers are cheap made in China junk. They'll work, but they're not necessarily better.

Williams games, Galaga, Gorf, B'time, Pac series, etc.. no switcher. Also, that's not the cause of the hum bar.
 
People are giving you advice and you aren't listening.


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Because if you do your homework, most people here DO restore older machines with older parts and or have spare power supplies in storage at thier shops (like i do)
.. Im just saying does anybody have a guide to add alittle insurance to running an older game all day without the risk of a fire or board damage.
If you wanna run your original power supply thats fine.. but anybody on this side of the line
who still wonder about switchers helping older machines that can contribute info on how it helped and how they did it feel free to chime in.


To answer your question (and not give an opinion on switcher versus original) I don't think you'll find any hard core guide or even a general guide. The issue is that the older games are all wired differently. Tron, for example, has the various voltages coming out of a different molex connector than PAC Man or Donkey Kong. So what TNT does is they alter the wiring custom for any game they have to. There isn't a one size fits all solution.

The MCR switcher for Tron is a very simple device. All it does is takes the switcher voltages and outputs them to the identical molex connector the old linear supply had making it "easy" to install versus having to lookup pin outs and stuff.
 
I've never completely understood this argument. People can do what they want with their games, and I put switchers in some games.... but the idea that a switcher is somehow more reliable is just not true.

I get old games, all the time, that have dead power supplies and if it's an old game with the original switcher you can bet your ass it's probably dead.

I've gotten tons of early 80's games with their original linear supplies in them, that are still working.

A rebuilt linear original supply is more reliable than a switcher in a lot of instances.... some exceptions though.

In the end though if you'd prefer a switcher put a switcher in it.
 
I've never completely understood this argument. People can do what they want with their games, and I put switchers in some games.... but the idea that a switcher is somehow more reliable is just not true.

I get old games, all the time, that have dead power supplies and if it's an old game with the original switcher you can bet your ass it's probably dead.

I've gotten tons of early 80's games with their original linear supplies in them, that are still working.

A rebuilt linear original supply is more reliable than a switcher in a lot of instances.... some exceptions though.

In the end though if you'd prefer a switcher put a switcher in it.

I had a Gorf once that just went dead, grey screen. One of the large caps had split. I got a replacement at Radio Shack (about 20yrs ago) and that fixed it. I typically replace caps and the connector header pins on the ps and at the harness. With a switcher, you'd still need to rebuild the harness connector.

My Berzerk is running the Spaeth ZZPU and the original linear ps with new caps. I repinned all connectors. Built new interconnect cables with .100 housings, crimp pins, and 20ga wire. Something else will just fail next.
 
Again, I am sure some people feel the opposite, but just something to consider as I put it in the same boat as a LCD screen "upgrade", LOL.:eek:

Not even in the same universe, let alone the same boat. An LCD screen directly affects the gameplaying experience, and in a huge way. The screen is where all of the game is happening from the player's perspective (all of the game except for the audio). A different type of power supply doesn't affect the gameplaying experience at all, and it doesn't even affect the external appearance of the machine either.

Donkey kong.. yeah i wouldnt put a switcher in.. i agree with you there. ive seen them hacked in and the machine still ran crappy.

Donkey Kong, as well as all other classic Nintendo arcade machines, came with a switcher from the factory, albeit, an annoying proprietary one with no external pot for adjusting +5 voltage.

I do own a few HSS kits that I have installed on some boards- non intrusive and easily reversed.

The same can be said of a switcher installation, if that's the goal. And unlike your HSS kits, a different type of power supply doesn't affect the way the game code operates at all.

BTW, for all those "temporarily" installing switchers alongside working power supplies- I am SURE none of you have screwed into the sides of the cabinet to do so right? Let's see some pictures of those custom fabricated brackets using only existing screw holes to hang the switchers.:rolleyes:

wafQnCA.jpg


In a Punch-Out cabinet, a standard switcher can be mounted on the same bracket as the original power supply and use an original screw and screw hole, and with the right Molex connectors (like I used), a harness can be made to plug into the machine's original harness without hacking anything. Granted, the original PP-1000A power supply was a switcher too, but like I said, an annoying proprietary one with no external pot for adjusting +5V. That's why I replaced it; it had an annoying habit of losing voltage (even after replacing every electrolytic capacitor, as well as the internal pot for adjusting +5V), and I was sick of taking the power supply apart to adjust the voltage every couple of months. The coin counter won't work with a standard switcher, because it requires an oddball voltage, but I couldn't care less about that.
 
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Shades of grey. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, as always. In your example, you removed a switcher of the same size (where one came originally with the game) and installed a better switcher in it's place. Very nice and slick installation, I have no problems with that. What I do have a problem with (for example) is my Joust where some ham-fisted idiot removed the linear, probably tossed it, and screwed a cheap switcher into the side and probably congratulated himself on his Radio-Shack crimper prowess.

Also, this side discussion is side-stepping the real issue where a rebuilt linear is cleaner power, all original (with correct replacement parts) and maintains and increases the value of the machine.

Not trying to offend anyone- I just think people should at least consider that things are only original once and do not modify things that can't be reversed- especially with an inferior product.

And I do recognize the OP may not have been suggesting switchers be installed poorly, but these threads seem to come up time and time again with the assumption that switchers are somehow an "improvement", which in the context of a preservation society mostly old 80's games context, they are not.

Also, some of us consider the internal appearance of a game just as important as the external.
 
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I don't think this is mentioned here but really need an EE to jump in. I think ATX power supplies automatically adjust for load or something and keep a rock solid +5v or something. I could definitely be wrong here but based on some comments spaeth or others have made on using ATX power supplies, I have a hunch this is why. Why put a switcher that has to be manually adjusted etc when newer more reliable and often cheaper technology is possible.

If my theory is correct, the real question would be, why aren't more atx power adapters being created for this hobby vs ones for switchers. I would think computer power supplies were designed to run longer and harder that linear power supplies from 1980. again I am happy to be wrong ... just guessing.
 
I don't think this is mentioned here but really need an EE to jump in. I think ATX power supplies automatically adjust for load or something and keep a rock solid +5v or something. I could definitely be wrong here but based on some comments spaeth or others have made on using ATX power supplies, I have a hunch this is why. Why put a switcher that has to be manually adjusted etc when newer more reliable and often cheaper technology is possible.

If my theory is correct, the real question would be, why aren't more atx power adapters being created for this hobby vs ones for switchers. I would think computer power supplies were designed to run longer and harder that linear power supplies from 1980. again I am happy to be wrong ... just guessing.

An ATX power supply (which is a switcher) is fine, though good ones are expensive, you'll get fan noise, and you would have to come up with a mounting method for them. You would also have to make sure it has sufficient amperage on its +5V rail, and if your board requires -5V you're out of luck, because ATX power supplies don't have -5V.

A standard JAMMA-style switcher is optimized for arcade use, so you don't have a lot of unnecessary stuff adding to the expense (such as +3.3V, big amperage on +12V, and heavy-duty cooling, including a fan), and they have mounting feet.

I don't know about any auto sensing/adjusting voltage function that an ATX power supply may have, but a good JAMMA-style switcher maintains a steady voltage quite well anyway. Also, the older +5V logic in classic arcade boards tends to be more tolerant of voltage variances than modern +3.3V logic in a PC.
 
I can ship 5 clean working fine used switching power supplies---the standard size with screw terminals---for $50 including priority shipping in the USA...can ship tomorrow! paypal and email is [email protected] we have sold hundreds of these uysed power supplies to collectors now over the last 15 years! Todd
 
I can ship 5 clean working fine used switching power supplies---the standard size with screw terminals---for $50 including priority shipping in the USA...can ship tomorrow! paypal and email is [email protected] we have sold hundreds of these uysed power supplies to collectors now over the last 15 years! Todd


You're really pushing those switchers. Maybe you should sell one of those Bentley's and downgrade to a more affordable automobile. ;)
 
I can ship 5 clean working fine used switching power supplies---the standard size with screw terminals---for $50 including priority shipping in the USA...can ship tomorrow! paypal and email is [email protected] we have sold hundreds of these uysed power supplies to collectors now over the last 15 years! Todd

No todd, what we need from you is some videos walking people through
a swap to switcher guide.
I know you convert alot of machines and i think in some of your vids you try and explain it , but the vid is either too dark or the camera doesnt stay on the power supply long
enough to know what you are talking about.
 
People are giving you advice and you aren't listening.

The old, linear power supplies are superior, after replacing caps and connectors.

All of the new switchers are cheap made in China junk. They'll work, but they're not necessarily better.

Williams games, Galaga, Gorf, B'time, Pac series, etc.. no switcher. Also, that's not the cause of the hum bar.



This may be the third time ive mentioned it but i still have all the original power supplies
in my machines.
I wasnt just asking about this for me, i was asking for the sake of ever having to go with "Plan B" to get a machine up and running or assist it with another source of voltage
if it needed it.
And for you new members, dont be afraid to ask questions like i did .
Not everybody is gonna jump all over your shit for asking questions like you see here.
 
The screw terminal power supplies are pretty self explanatory...we change the old working ones for new ones and just move the wires to the same screws!
 
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