SWEP1-Pinball2000 Problem

caligirl

New member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
97
Reaction score
0
Location
California
SWEP1-Pinball2000 Problems

Went to turn on game last night and it started up fine. Put in three players, started the game, then the game reset. Now it boots, gets to "TESTING..." and goes right back to the start of the boot process. I have tried re seating the PRISM card. I did notice that the fan on the P/S is no longer running, so I will be replacing the P/S.
Could the P/S be the problem? Are there other possible problems to cause this?

I had a previously similar experience, where the game would get part way through 'TESTING' and when it got to one solenoid it would stop and reboot, and I fixed the problem at the time, but do not recall now what I did. It was not the first solenoid of the test process.
What is the first thing being tested during "TESTING..."

Also... When looking at the solenoids, I noticed a diode broken from one side of a switch, so I re soldered it. The switch was one for a drop target. However, the switch, and its matching switch on the other drop target were missing their arms. I do not notice any difference in game play, but I had not played the game in awhile when I purchased it. Was this a recommended modification? Why would it be this way? The manual shows the assembly with the switches having arms.


Thanks for any help!
 
Last edited:
I have seen power supplies go, and take out the entire computer....

I would replace the power supply and cross your fingers.

If it works after this, replace the CPU fan next.

If you pull out the PRISM card, you can connect the PC to a standard (VGA) computer monitor and older DIN style keyboard. At least there you can see the computer start up and do a memory check. With the PRISM card in you will not get any readable video on a vga monitor as the PRISM card tells the computer to output the lower cga video.

I would guess that MAYBE.... the PRISM board is bad.... I can test it if you need it tested. I have a SW EP1 and a RFM...

Good info here: http://www.pinrepair.com/pin2000/index.htm

Check the diodes on anything suspect.... give them a tug, sometimes they will look fine, but are cracked...

-Mike
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the heads up. I may need to take you up on the offer of testing the PRISM. Let me swap the P/S first, and take another look at the solinoids for any possible problems. I have had the machine for just under two years, and this is the first major problem I've had. I had looked at the P/S when I bought it, and it looked as if it had already been changed, along with all the fans in the computer box. I have had a CPU fan on standby for awhile.

Thanks for the referenct to pinrepair.com, having 5 pins, that is one site I have bookmarked.
But reading the section on boot/reboot, none of the symptoms described match mine. But I'll go back and look again. The fact that I am able to get to "TESTING..." before the reboot, and twice it has made it through to the attract mode before reboot, leaves me curious.
 
It has to be reading the PRISM to get to the that point, but you never know...

I have an issue I am trying to solve with AceJedi's SW EP1 pin, the PRISM is good, the game plays with my computer and his prism card, BUT I am getting an OPEN COIN DOOR error on the attract screen right after tests are done.

I changed everything out and have narrowed the problem down to the main computer PCB..... just have to find out where.

The game plays fine with my computer, so it's not a cable issue. I eaven swapped out the parralell cable from the PCB to the case..... HAS to be something in the I/O chip... I get a communication error if the cable is unplugged so it's partially working. I pulled the PRISM card and looked at the computers settings, all looks good.

The NUCORE replacement systems are EXPENSIVE!

These are some fun games (RFM/SWE1), but damn hard to work on vs the system 11's in the Williams pins.....

-Mike
 
Wow, sounds like you are doing the right things to try and narrow down the problem you are having. Good Luck finding it. Please share your solution for future reference for all of us Pinball2000 owners.
This is the first major problem I have had with mine. I bought it 'working; but it needed alot of love and fixing but nothing outrageous. It also had a fresh monitor which was a big selling point for me.
I am waiting for a power supply to arrive, I hope to have it early next week. I'll post the results.
I agree if I am getting to the "TESTING'' screen, it seems that the PRISM should be working.
I'm still not ruling out that something is not testing properly and is causing the re-boot.
 
Well, just to follow through. I replaced the powersupply and the CPU fan today. So far so good. I did have a moment of frustration though. When I went to remove the CPU fan, the whole thing, including the chip pulled from the socket. The thermal compound had worked like glue.
I am guessing I didnt get the chip seated properly, or I possibley knocked the PRISM loose, so the first time I fired it up, it did not work, even though I saw that the PRISM was recievining power(lit LED). I reseated both, reinstalled and, it started up right away.

It also powers up much quieter than previously. Obviously the PO had installed an additional, larger fan on the computer box, while not a bad idea, it was creating alot of noise and was adding a power load to the powersupply on start up. Add to that the hack wire job of tapping the saber power straight out of the powersupply as well,(which I knew about and knew was wrong, but I just never got around to fixing), No wonder the power supply which appears to be a replacement, wore out.

Now on to figuring out how to get the lightsaber to work the way it is suppose to, and to replacing the switches on the drop targets.
 
Sometimes the CPU paste forms a really tight seal, sometimes they use an adhesive... I run into this problem alot. Make sure to put new cpu paste on there, it should of come with the new CPU heatsink and fan. Make sure you get a drop the size of a BB in the center. Too much does not help....

Kinda late on the info, but I am sure you got it ok.

Ya know, I never swapped out the POWER supply on the non-working Star Wars here..... I will give this a try tomarrow.

I bought a few of these, so I am not limited to the old "AT" power supplies.

ATX to AT Power Supply Converter
http://www.cablesunlimited.com/products/Prod_Individual3.aspx?groupcode=I3557

Glad to hear your major issue is fixed. I know with pins, if you have a few, there's allways something that needs to be fixed...

-Mike
 
Back
Top Bottom