Problem: My SWE1's neon lamp is not working.
Answer: First check that 12 volts is present going *into* the neon lamp's transformer (is fuse 108 blown?) The neon transformer is mounted inside the black handle of the light saber. The easiest way is to check for 12 volts at the Molex connector going to the transformer (under the playfield), or at the power driver board connector J111 pin 9. If 12 volts is getting to the transformer, next make sure the return path to ground is being completed (this is handled by a MosFET transistor on power driver board). Ground the black wire on the Molex connector going to the neon transformer. Does the neon tube turn on? If not (is the neon tube itself damaged? very unlikely), the neon transformer itself is probably bad. If the neon does light when the black wire is grounded, then the MosFET transistor and/or the ULN2803 chip at U35 on the power driver board have most likely failed (or the wire going to the power driver board has broken.
If the 12 volts is present at the neon transformer, and grounding the black wire does not light the neon tube, then the neon transformer is probably at fault. The neon transformer takes 12 volts DC and converts it to a very high voltage (about 1500 volts, at low current). Because of this, to get the UL rating, Williams was required to rivit close a plastic case around the transformer! To access the transformer, the rivits will need to be drilled out with a 1/8" drill bit (or grind off the heads of the rivets). On SWE1, do not try and remove the decorative plastic "light saber handle" from half of the plastic transformer case! (they uses silicon to attach it, and it does not come off without destroying the decorative plastic!)
Once the rivits are removed, the transformer can be removed and checked. Is there any high voltage (1500 volts DC) being output? If your DMM does not go this high, just replace the transformer. The cheapest way is to buy a car neon license plate transformer. If needed, wire the automobile neon transformer under the PF (if it doesn't fit in the ramp housing), and run the high voltage wire up to the ramp and bulb. Note if you do this to be sure to use wire rated for at least 2000 Volts (it'll have thick insulation; look at the wire already on the bulb if you need some reference).
Specs for the original neon transformer are here. The original Williams SWE1 transformer (part number 04-10947) may also still be available. The original transformer for SWE1 (and Cirqus Voltaire) was a Ventex model VT12D5, but they seem to have changed their model numbers so now it's VT1510-12. A replacement is Ventex model NPS-12D5 and it fits and works fine. Key specs are input 12 volts DC at 0.6A, and output 1500V 5mA. You can find it at
www.ventextech.com/lowv.htm. Note the output connector will need to be changed to a Molex connector. Another transformer source is
www.sunsupply.com/transformers/winind.html.
Testing the neon tube itself, without using the high voltage transformer, and not that easy. There is no to test a neon tube with a DMM - basically the gas inside the tube conducts electricity. So basically a DMM can't generate a big enough voltage to test it. They make little inductive testers - the tube will glow when this thing is held near the neon tube, if the gas is still in there. Also try taking the neon under some high voltage power lines at night to see if it glows (and to scare yourself about how much energy is leaking out of them!)
I believe that I have a full schematic set, I will check for it.