Swapping monitors w/ different connections?

RareHero

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I've swapped monitors when it was the same brand, but not when connectors were different- so please help this ignorant soul. :)

OK, so here's the monitor in the weird bootleg DK Jr ...one molex w/ 5 wires. I'm guessing RGB and power?

DKMonitor.jpg


Here's my Pac cocktail monitor connection - there are 2 molex ...one has 4 wires (green, yellow, tan, and red) and one has 2 wires (both black)

PacMonitor.jpg


I'd like to swap the DK Jr monitor (don't worry, it's not a sanyo) to the Pac cocktail...but it looks like the Pac cocktail has 1 extra wire. What should I do?

Thanks!
 
That manual took forever to download. OK, the Pac cab uses composite sync. I bet you will find continuity between the two black wires. They are your sync cable. The other cables are RGB and ground. Check the DK monitor for these inputs and coordinate accordingly.
 
That manual took forever to download. OK, the Pac cab uses composite sync. I bet you will find continuity between the two black wires. They are your sync cable. The other cables are RGB and ground. Check the DK monitor for these inputs and coordinate accordingly.

OK, shows how much I know about monitors. I can put in cap kit but I don't know what sync is. OK - so ...if the Pac monitor has 2 sync wires and a ground ...does that mean the other monitor's black and whites could be sync and no ground? Or one sync and one ground? The only wires coming from the DK Jr. PCB to the monitor are on that one molex w/ the 5 wires as pictured.

I don't know if these labels help, but this is how each pin is labeled on the DK Jr monitor:

B (blue wire) G (green wire) R (red wire) VD (no wire) E (black wire) HD (white wire)
 
Warning--the monitor in your DKJr may be a Sega/Nanao, Kagi or similar that is a 100V monitor. Just like a Sanyo or Sharp 100V, putting it in your Pac-Man may cause damage to the monitor by running it at 120V.


Edit: Yup, you have a Kagi: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/kagi.html I have 2 of these, one in a Sega Turbo and one in a Sega Cocktail. Both were running at ~100 volts. Please double check your voltage running into it before you connect it in another cab. The power inputs should be on a grey larger connector much like typical yoke wire connectors and be towards the top center of the picture closer to the very large black filter capacitor.



RGB = Red, Green, Blue signals.

VD = Vertical Deflection (aka Vertical Sync) - Typically combined with horizontal on a white white or may be Yellow or some other color if separate.
E = Earth (aka Video Ground) - Typically black when in a bundle with RGB.
HD = Horizontal Deflection (aka Horizontal Sync) - Typically White when in a bundle with RGB

Usually you can tie vertical and horizontal sync wires together and feed it into a composite sync pin or a horizontal sync pin and the monitor will separate them automaticaly.

But doublecheck what chassis that is before you connect it to the Pac-Man. The Pacman just has a 1:1 isolation transformer that outputs the same voltage as your wall (+/- a few volts). A regular Nintendo will run a 1:1.1 transformer stepping down 120V down to 100 volts or so.

Best bet is to disconnect the power cable from the monitor in the DK Jr machine and then use a digital voltage meter to check the voltage BEFORE connecting it into your pacman. Also meter the same on the pacman. If they're close (within 5%) then you're safe. If not post the numbers and/or more information about the monitor in your DKJr before you connect it up.


Your Pacman has a Wells-Gardner K4900 in it. From the right of the picture going left, it's Red/Green/Blue/Ground on the wide connector, then sync runs to the last 2 pins on the second connector.

So, in summary:
DK JR:
White - Composite Sync
Black - Ground
Red - Red gun
Green - Green gun
Blue - Blue gun

Pac-Man
Red - Red gun
Brown - Green gun
Yellow - Blue gun
Black - Ground

Black \ composite sync spread over both HSync and VSync pins
Black /



Sync in the synchronization signal that tells the monitor how fast to draw each line (horizontal) and how fast to draw each frame (vertical). On TV's it's combined with another color (component) or with all (s-video/composite). For RGB it is run over a separate line.
 
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Warning--the monitor in your DKJr may be a Sega/Nanao, Kagi or similar that is a 100V monitor.

Please double check your voltage running into it before you connect it in another cab.

Thank you for the excellent education and advice! I tested the voltage - and it's 109.5 ...heh..so - it's either too high or too low? In any case - I have a feeling I should just leave this monitor well enough alone since it works very well in the cab it's in.
 
Measure your wall outlet and then measure the power to your pac monitor out of curiosity. But in any event 109 is way too low for house wiring so it must be behind a step-down 100V transformer, meaning it's a bit high for intended use but obviously is okay with it.


Around here we run about 125V at the wall on a typical day (16 year old newer development in a 100,000 population town on burried lines), and after a 1:1 isolation transfromer I usually see 123V to 127V On a Nintendo I normally see around 105-108V.

I will assume your outlets are putting out 125+ if you're seeing 109 at that Kagi input.

Therefore you can pretty much be assured that's a 100V monitor, and pumping another 15+ volts into it in the Pac-Man might not be a good thing to do.

I've seen 100V Nanao's survive in a Pac before at 115-125V but usually Sanyo's fry. YMMV especially on this older Kagi.
 
Cool...well, I'll just leave it alone. One of these days I'll find a cheap auction game w/ a perfect swappable monitor! :) In the meantime - I'll turn this thing into a multi or something!
 
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