Swap non-working WG U5000 for WG 27K7391?

jimmyfloyd

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I have a Golden Tee Fore 2005 that has a U5000 monitor that is not working and making a ticking sounds (posted in another thread). I found a WG 27K7391 monitor locally that is supposed to be working and recently shopped by a local amusement shop.

Will this monitor swap into my cabinet without modification?
Is it worth $100 to get it working now, before I dive into tracking down the issues with the U5000?
Is it a standard or med res monitor?

Thanks
 
No, VAPS lists Golden Tee Fore 2005 as EGA/Medium resolution.

U5000 can do both CGA and EGA resolution.

So, unless this game can be switched down to CGA, this solution won't work. Sorry.
 
So it's worth putting the time and money into fixing the U5000, rather than swapping in this other monitor for a quick fix then.

Time to start figuring out how to troubleshoot monitors.
 
ok, time to determine why it is ticking and getting no picture.

Thanks
 
There is a list of "required" upgrades for the U5000 make sure you have them installed. There is a Power supply one, A vertical Sweep one and another. Also The U5000 is VERY fussy about the connections for the Resolution selector if there loose or burnt fix them this will blow the HOT, and that is 90% of what makes these tick tick.

If your never going to Swap Rez, I would solder the wires directly to the board and remove the header and socket all together. Cold Solder joints do a cap kit, and unless it needs it keep the factory Flyback.
 
Here are some pictures of the monitor:
 

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Tested the TP203 and got 0V

Tested the HOT Q704 Middle leg with Diode mode on my DMM per another thread and got 000, as shown in the picture. Guessing this means that the HOT is bad.

Also, I noticed that on the Monitor AC plug, When I ground the the black lead and test the other, the black wire reads about 80V, and the white reads about 55-60V. They add up to what I am seeing at the plug (which I need to replace, since the ground is broken off.)
 

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I like to test the HOT's out of the chassis myself, but if it reads 000 then it is very likely shorted.
About 50% of the U5000 chassis I work on Honestly after a cap kit the HOT usually fixes them.
Also that Large Resistor..... It MAY be good, but if your wanting to maybe replace it just because it looks stressed at one time.
 
Which resistor is that? Also, I was concerned about the discoloration around the resistors in the 3rd picture of my previous post.

Also, if I remove the monitor chassis from the game, can I still test it?

Lastly, where to find the HOT?
 
Which resistor is that? Also, I was concerned about the discoloration around the resistors in the 3rd picture of my previous post.

Also, if I remove the monitor chassis from the game, can I still test it?

Lastly, where to find the HOT?

Image 4196 Resistor 111 Looks to have the insulation broke off

Digikey, Mouser, Ebay, Security101, Arcade Buffett, ect...

And test off tube? No I wouldn't try that. Meter things Yes but never apply power to it without the Yoke connected. Bad things happen.
 
I see the resistor now. Looks like I will be removing the chassis and testing/replacing the parts that don't look good. I figured powering a monitor chassis without the tube was probably a bad idea.

Also, got this back from Wells Gardner when I emailed them about the update kits:

Good Morning,

We no longer carry any CRT part. We only work on and sell LED monitors.

Looks like I will need to piece something together.

And I noticed that the input from the game was plugged into the 15Khz, but the dip switches were set to med res. Unsure if this was done before the monitor blew or after when my friend was trying to see if it was something simple.
 
Looks like I will need to piece something together. : Contact Ken Layton he "May" have some tidbits.

And I noticed that the input from the game was plugged into the 15Khz, but the dip switches were set to med res. Unsure if this was done before the monitor blew or after when my friend was trying to see if it was something simple.

That will blow the HOT in a matter of seconds.

Take a couple good photos of your chassis especially around the Vertical IC location and we will be able to tell if at least some of the updates were installed.
 
So, I was wondering if the WGM2575 chassis will work with my U5000 monitor? The neck board is the same as my U5000 came with. From my brief research, it seems some people say yes, and some say no.

The Tube is an A63AGD01X
 

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So, I was wondering if the WGM2575 chassis will work with my U5000 monitor? The neck board is the same as my U5000 came with. From my brief research, it seems some people say yes, and some say no.

The Tube is an A63AGD01X

No.

WGM2575 is a (25in) K7500 chassis.

A K7000 or a K7400 chassis are a different stories.
 
No.

WGM2575 is a (25in) K7500 chassis.

A K7000 or a K7400 chassis are a different stories.

What?

Yes it will work (BUT) you need to swap Yokes. The K7500 Med Rez uses its own "special" Yoke so if you use that one you will have to swap it.

The U2000 (CGA) U5000 (CGA/EGA) and the K7400 (CGA) use many of the same parts, and it has been proven that the Yokes between those 3 can interchange.

Although the K7500 also uses the same neckboard as those 3 others, it is it's own beast sorry to say.

There are other differences between all of these chassis also, like the remote boards are not all the same some have different resistors and some are missing a POT or 2 ect... So be sure you have the proper parts for each chassis as to not have other issues that could be avoided.
 
What?

Yes it will work (BUT) you need to swap Yokes. The K7500 Med Rez uses its own "special" Yoke so if you use that one you will have to swap it.

He is talking about swapping chassis and not yokes. That was made clear earlier in the thread.

If you are willing to swap yokes, almost ANY tube will work that matches the neck plug/socket.
 
I was looking at the pictures I have of this, and noticed the following locations are not populated. The guy I got it from said the monitor was working, and I did infact play a game on it prior, so I don't think they are necessary.

C729, C120

C105, C616 and C110 have a white substance below them it appears.


And as pointed out before, R111 appears cracked.

So I am guessing that even though this was capped at some point, I will probably need to do it again, at least with the ones that appear to be leaking.
 

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