SW Restore From Hell

Hinge length: 7.5"

I'd only need the upper door and everything associate with it (or if you wanna pull the parts, I only need the PARTS associated with the upper door as I already have a nicely painted upper door here waiting for the parts).
 
Everything is metal. Here are some pics. If you need more pictures,let me know.
 

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You people rock...

It seems I have a complete ATARI style door coming and parts for the door I have here coming from elsewhere...

...so i'll likely do the prudent thing and gank the door off my Paperboy project and use the door(s) coming to repair that!

W00t!

THANK YOU ALL! You rock...
 
As I mentioned a few posts up...

This "full side art" isn't quite so "full". It appears that it doesn't cover the areas that were just exposed by vinyl with the original Star Wars art... (the edges and the top part by the marquee).

What does that mean? Well... being that I THOUGHT it was, indeed, "full" side art, I painted the cab flat black for adhesion reasons...

It's just not going to work. The contrast between the nice glossy side art to the flat black is just going to look like ass. So it seems I get to re-paint the cab.

A couple questions (BTW...anyone else here re-sided their SW upright? I'd love to hear from you!):

(A) Should I go gloss, semi-gloss, or satin? I'm leaning toward satin.

(B) Do you think I could just paint the areas that would be exposed? I'd like to keep as much of the flat as possible... again, for adhesion purposes but I worry that if I just re-paint the edges and top area there would be an issues with the transition between the flat and the new paint...as there would be another layer of paint. I am not sure if it would be enough to be of detriment... but it's something to consider.

EDIT: I also had the crazy idea of spraying some clear along the exposed areas... that would gloss up the black... but I worry that spray-can clear would look like crap and I worry about adhesion and the fact that the clear is likely oil based (spray cans are...right?) and the flat isn't.
 
As I mentioned a few posts up...

This "full side art" isn't quite so "full". It appears that it doesn't cover the areas that were just exposed by vinyl with the original Star Wars art... (the edges and the top part by the marquee).

What does that mean? Well... being that I THOUGHT it was, indeed, "full" side art, I painted the cab flat black for adhesion reasons...

It's just not going to work. The contrast between the nice glossy side art to the flat black is just going to look like ass. So it seems I get to re-paint the cab.

A couple questions (BTW...anyone else here re-sided their SW upright? I'd love to hear from you!):

(A) Should I go gloss, semi-gloss, or satin? I'm leaning toward satin.

(B) Do you think I could just paint the areas that would be exposed? I'd like to keep as much of the flat as possible... again, for adhesion purposes but I worry that if I just re-paint the edges and top area there would be an issues with the transition between the flat and the new paint...as there would be another layer of paint. I am not sure if it would be enough to be of detriment... but it's something to consider.

EDIT: I also had the crazy idea of spraying some clear along the exposed areas... that would gloss up the black... but I worry that spray-can clear would look like crap and I worry about adhesion and the fact that the clear is likely oil based (spray cans are...right?) and the flat isn't.

For adhesion reasons alone, I'd advise against painting it flat black. I'd go satin or semi-gloss. Clear over the black would likely look crappy. Just consider the flat black like a primer or sanding coat. Sand it very smooth, then recoat with satin or semi gloss. Whatever you do, don't rush it. You can get clear in oil or water based. Clear coat has no place in this project.
 
I was told from multiple sources that flat is best for adhesion... but since the art isn't fully covering the side as I thought it did... yeah, I think repainting the whole damn thing satin is the way to go...

Oh well... this bastard wants to be a pain in the ass right to the end.

Sure glad she works though...at least I don't have to deal with that end of things.

:D
 
I cut out peeling finyl, sanded remaining vinyl edges, evercoated/bondo'ed where needed the edges of my SWCP. After that, I rattle-canned on some Rustoleum primer and satin black. Came out pretty good...not showroom quality, but very presentable.
 
>sigh<

SWUR_DONE1.jpg
 
Cab looks good. Is it playable yet?


Sure is...

...I wheeled it in to it's new home caddy-corner to Tempest... fired her up and played a game or two. I then fired up Tempest...

... and found half the screen collapsed.

FUN!

:D
 
Sure is...

...I wheeled it in to it's new home caddy-corner to Tempest... fired her up and played a game or two. I then fired up Tempest...

... and found half the screen collapsed.

FUN!

:D

assuming it is a 6100, did you check the harness connections to the deflection board? i had a bunch of old cracked joints on my board which caused the same thing in my tempest...
 
assuming it is a 6100, did you check the harness connections to the deflection board? i had a bunch of old cracked joints on my board which caused the same thing in my tempest...

I've not pulled it out yet, but I will make sure to check that first. I'd imagine a wiggle at each connector should tell me if it's the culprit...
 
I had this same problem on my Tempest. My issue was there was too much white heatsink grease from the side mounted transistors, which coated the legs and got into the sockets. A good cleaning of the legs and sockets with rubbing alcohol has fixed my issue. FYI, something to check.
 
Congrats on getting the SW working. How many levels can you get through using the force? That's my favorite thing to attempt on that game. I use the 6-shields setting where you get one extra shield after killing the Death Star.
 
I've not pulled it out yet, but I will make sure to check that first. I'd imagine a wiggle at each connector should tell me if it's the culprit...

Just pull it out and wiggle it a bit Jon, that outta take care of any present and long term issues. Sorry man, this is totally irrelevant but i had to.
 
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