Suzuka help wanted

mecha

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ok, my Suzuka 8 Hours 2 has a few little quirks that need attention.

it pertains to the brake pot. not registering as a start button or test menu selector, and the other is that the game was bought used, and the JAMMA and secondary harnesses are cannibalized (spliced together, or wires are broken off)


first off, I replaced a brake pot. with one pulled from an extra Suzuka bike I had stored, and it's doing the same thing as the one I took out.

the min. is coming up 00, and the max is only reaching 14 (the other bike's brake max reaches 30). the brake works in-game, but won't register as a button function at all like in the test menu, or if there's a credit on the game, the brake won't start a new game.

now I read about the ADS Initialize in the test menu, but the problem is I can't select that menu option due to what I mentioned above. is there like a way I can short the legs on the pot. to make it reach its max potential or some alternative way of selecting menu options?

I have a 5k pot. that I ordered from Happ a few months back, but it's physically larger than the Suzuka one, so a place to get a true replacement would be much appreciated.

----

onto the other problem, the player 1 side of the game has the secondary harness (the blue one) all butchered with wires solder-spliced to pins, or the wires are broken off. there's a lot of unpopulated pins, but they don't pop out like JAMMA pins do, so how can I do that? ideally I'd like to do away with the spliced wires, cause the Link function doesn't work on the game anymore, I'd like to just re-solder the wiring onto "new" pins.

and last, anyone got a pinout on the secondary harness? I got the original manual for the game, but the wiring diagram is virtually illegible.


sorry for the long post. thanks.
 
that one is monumentally easier to read. Suzuka 2's schematics are handwritten. :D

I gather the blue connector is the "Edge 40P" ?
 
bump

I need to rewire the blue harnesses for player 1 and 2.

is there an easy way to pop the pins out? some of the ones on mine are broken off, I have nothing to solder to. :)

even if anyone has like a Tekken kick harness or something that I could buy, that'd be fine too. Jammaboards is all out of stock on their Namco extended harnesses.

EDIT: could I get away with using a couple of these? it's 56 pin instead of 48, I'll just add a 2nd key if I have to. http://www.jammaboards.com/store/56...3ff68f529742=a77d411272679e1921288df0becdf77a
 
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i have a suzuka 8 hour 2 wiring harness in a box someplace. i use a transistor leg to remove the pins from the connector. you can buy pin extracting tools and new pins if you need. let me know if you need any parts especially the cosmetics.
 
uber bump!

just wanted to post that I went the easy route and hardwired a bunch of wires to the filterboard fingers for the aux harness and proceeded to splice everything together that way.

I did this because of the major quandary of wires that were actually wired up to entirely wrong spots on the harness and needed to figure out where exactly everything went. I backtracked through the schematic to the actual bike molex harnessing to find the original colors and ran continuity checks to the other ends of the wires until I found what I specifically needed to hook up to my patch job. why? because the wire colors were all faded.

magically, through this approach, I got the wiring 100% right on the first try. the Link worked again too.

as for fixing the brake pot problem, I did some careful reading of the manual and found that the machine auto calibrates by pressing and holding the Service switch at the same time as flipping the Test switch to on.

just have to maybe re-cap the other monitor that hasn't been done yet, and I think my work here is done.

I'm not a fan of the game, but moving it out isn't likely and I hate demolishing games. I have nothing to lose by working on the games in our arcade but my time, so I figure I'll fix the shit.

since Oryk Zoinko (I think) found some replacement harnesses for the Tekken kick harness/this game's harness, now that I have the wires straightened out finally, I might redo the whole operation by replacing the harness.

it's also worth noting that the jerkwads that had the game before us had +5V spliced to some totally unrelated JAMMA pin (-5V, I think) for no apparent reason.

just thought I'd share my experience.
 
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