Super Hang-on, do I even care?

Tighe

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
20,797
Reaction score
825
Location
Richmondville, New York
OK, so I rebuilt the monitor on this pretty beat up SHO, the controls work but a little wonky. Fine the game is fun.

Now I am getting graphics glitches like this:

uploadfromtaptalk1361042974230.jpg

So I pull the board, it is filthy underneath and between the boards so I simple green and wash and dry them. I pull all the socketed chips clean them with Deoxit and put them back in.

Problem is still there, I check the voltage and the meter reads 15v! I shut out down adjust the voltage knob a little turn it back on and get 5.75v turn it all the way down and it reads 5.25v cycle the power the meter won't read anything, I turn the meter of and on and get 5.02v

I go into the memory test and get this:
uploadfromtaptalk1361043327305.jpg

I figure the power supply trashed 4 of the ROMs and 2 RAM chips.

So I figure I should replace the power supply which is a 5v switcher and a linear supply for the other voltages.

Also get the RAM chips and ROMs burned.

Do I even care?

Anyone replaced the power supply in a SHO with a switcher?
 
OK, so I pulled the ROMs that were showing as bad and used some more deoxit on the sockets this time and now the Memory test shows everything as good. Even the RAM, which was right next to the ROMs that were reading bad.

Anyways the road glitches are still there, and now the volume goes to insanely loud to quiet and the volume pot has nothing to do with it. Pressing the start button when the game is playing will reset the game. I think I have some open or short in the control area.
 
OK, so the glitches were less after I left it on for a few minutes. Figuring it might be the cold as my basement if currently 51 degrees, I hit the board with the heat gun. Glitches are gone. LOL, the problems started when the basement got cold. Guess I know what I need to do now.
 
Seriously, why does this subforum even exist, I swear nobody visits it. I should have posted this in the General or the monitor section. ;)
 
Seriously, why does this subforum even exist, I swear nobody visits it. I should have posted this in the General or the monitor section. ;)

two (2) hours and not a response and on a SUNDAY. Try again during the work week. I find most post when they are at work :).
 
Anyways, I pulled it one more time as a few of the signs had glitches and I sprayed Deoxit in every socket and put the chips back in.

It seems that cleared up the issues although I didn't do more than 30 seconds testing before heading out for dinner.
 
Anyways, I pulled it one more time as a few of the signs had glitches and I sprayed Deoxit in every socket and put the chips back in.

It seems that cleared up the issues although I didn't do more than 30 seconds testing before heading out for dinner.

I don't know what they used at my dad's work at the time, Telefile, but it was in a little bottle with cleanser and bowl. When up pushed down on the top the bowl filled with cleaner. It worked great for cleaning the flux and anything on the pcb. There was no residue like what you can get from rubbing alchol
 
I don't know what they used at my dad's work at the time, Telefile, but it was in a little bottle with cleanser and bowl. When up pushed down on the top the bowl filled with cleaner. It worked great for cleaning the flux and anything on the pcb. There was no residue like what you can get from rubbing alchol


Good ol' anhydrous alcohol works wonders for that...

Rubbing alcohol is really a no-no for PCB work, as it does leave behind that white haze (thats the denaturing compound).

Earlier flux removers that were really REALLY effective were CFC-based, and are no longer available.

MENDA dispensers are still around and can be had at most any distributor like digikey or mouser...
 
Hang-On bro!

my guess is a bad solderjoint or failing trace somewhere along one of those bad chips/ram. the cold/warmth is causing the joint/board to expand or contract causing a funky connection. (could be a chip doing the same as well).
 
Good ol' anhydrous alcohol works wonders for that...

Rubbing alcohol is really a no-no for PCB work, as it does leave behind that white haze (thats the denaturing compound).

Earlier flux removers that were really REALLY effective were CFC-based, and are no longer available.

MENDA dispensers are still around and can be had at most any distributor like digikey or mouser...

Thanks for the info, I have been looking for some really good cleaner and good used anti static bags. I never knew the name of that dispenser but I use it quite a bit on my KIM-1 kit. That stuff really worked great.

As for the connection problem a hair dryer and freeze spray will help you find the area of the board that is the problem. Could even be the connector just needs a squeeze (with fingers). Yes this does work and I have done this at MagFest and the game worked for the entire event 3 days and 4 night.
 
Yes but I haven't had the chance to find the file yet. I assume you PMed Biomech too?
Hi, yes also PM'd him but he's not been online for a while! did you manage to source the big Blue and Red stripes? as I was thinking of matching the paint colors and painting them on after masking them. If you could find the file it will be much appreciated thanks :)
 
Hi, yes also PM'd him but he's not been online for a while! did you manage to source the big Blue and Red stripes? as I was thinking of matching the paint colors and painting them on after masking them. If you could find the file it will be much appreciated thanks :)

On my cabinet the red stripes looks like red tape and the blue is blue vinyl. Nothing is painted on a Super Hang-on.
 
Back
Top Bottom