Summit systems inc slot help

Nojjon

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Any one have a manual and/or schematic for a Summit system inc slot machine?

I'm repairing one for a friend of mine.

There are a few intermittent problems with the machine. I think they all relate to the summit back plane.

Here are a list of the problems.

1. Sometimes it will not accept coins
2. When it does accept coins the wheels never stop spinning.
3. Sometimes it accept coins but you can't pull the handle

Sometimes it works perfectly

Someone told me that this is the same as a Bally E-Series machine is this True?

Best regards,

JW
 
I spent quite a bit of time fixing one of these and even when I got it working 100% there was no gratifying moment.

This is about the only source for parts and info:

http://www.hms-electronics.com/slot_machines/summit_systems_support.htm

He's got good diagnostic info as well.

When electronic slots hit the market they couldn't pump them into Vegas fast enough so Summit took old Bally's and gutted them and put in their electronic parts.

I had the same issues you're having along with a few dozen others. If you haven't I believe they recommend cutting the battery off the board.

Also when you experience the problems you mentioned many of them can be corrected by pulling the jumper off the main board for a few minutes and re-seating several of the problematic chips (mentioned on the website above).

When I would get the reel spinning issue I would pull the reels assembly out and manually stop them (stop solenoids are on the bottom). If that didn't work then I would try the things above. They corrected most of the issues for me. www.newlifegames.com has some info but not much.

Whatever you do, do NOT let your friend spend much money on one of these, you will not get your money back out.
 
Thank you for the information.

I just found a manual on line for $20.00 and I'll be going through it. I'll post any information I find.

The battery is still in but it is dead. I'll remove it and see if that helps.

I also pulled out the coin hopper and it looks like someone tried to clean it with something that melted all the rubber it looks like a gooey ball of Tar and a bunch of coins are stuck in it.

Do you still have your machine?

Thanks again for the information.

Best regards,

JW
 
The "goo" is the hopper star which rotates to move the coins out. I believe the hopper should be original Bally. The rubber/plastic stars sell for about $5. and are held in by a few screws. If it's bad I wonder if you could try freezing the goo before trying to remove it. They dry rot and the rotation rubs it all over the coins
Originally it looked something like this:
 

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summit

Seen the postings. A little trick to keep a Bally agitator star from going soft is to dust it with talcum powder before installing it. Repeat once a year. Keeps from having to chisel off the goo. Also take the index plate off and freeze it and the goo, comes off a lot easier.
 
Thanks for all your help.

I cleaned out the hopper and put in a new Hopper star. Now my only problem is the the Coin-out is not counting the coins.

I have metered the switch when the coins come out and everything at the switch seems to be ok.
I need to trace the wiring back to the electronics.

Anybody have any ideas what would cause the coin-out switch to not count coins?
 
This is from the website link I gave you above:



Coins Won't pay out (flashing 0 on the right Digit of the Meter Display):

1. Check to make sure that there are no coins jammed in the coin disk of the hopper and that the disk can be rotated freely about 1/8 of an inch (or more). The electronics to control the hopper are located on the interface board and will require repairs. The hopper also has a circuit board. Rarely, this board goes bad. If the hopper won't run, you get a flashing zero on the display along with the tilt light. The flashing zero meaning that zero coins were paid. This problem could be related to bad connections on the plug and jack assemblies on the hopper or the reel mechanism. To restart payout, press the hopper reset button and close the door (activating the switch on the top hinge of the door). After 3-4 seconds, the hopper should activate. See the above paragraph for clearing the tilt and restarting the payout! Also, see 'Battery Issues' to disable the tilt code retention.

Clearing the flashing Zero on the Right Digit of the display:

If the hopper runs, then pressing the hopper reset button and closing the door (activating the switch connected to the top hinge), should clear the flashing zero and allow the hopper to run. If the flashing zero stops for a few seconds, then comes back, it's because the hopper won't run or the hopper switch is failing to signal the coins going out. Also, see 'Battery Issues' to disable the tilt code retention.

Continuity test for the coin out switch of the hopper:

Testing for continuity using an ohm meter. 0 volts is either the negative end of the battery or the black with red trace wire on the coin in switch (easy to get to). The 'coin out' input resistor on the 'slot controller' board is R10. With the machine off, if you are measuring the resistance between 0volts and the end of the resistor that goes to the edge connector (circuit board gold pins), the resistance should go low (about 1 to 100 ohms) when the coin out switch is activated. If the resistance goes low, you have good continuity in the machine harness and connectors and the problem is the slot controller board. If the resistance does not go low, you have a problem with connections in the system (usually the rear connectors of the reel assembly).

Testing with a volt meter (power on):
R10 should have about 3.5 to 4.0 volts on it with the coin out switch open (either end of the resistor). If the resistor has 5 volts, the opto coupler (ILQ-74) is shorted and will need replacing.
 
I picked up 3 summit system slots a while back to play with, but 2 of them have the eprom missing off the board.

Anyone have any idea where to get replacement eproms w/the slot specific info programmed on it (payout programming etc.)?

Thanks
 
Thanks for the link. I do appreciate it; I was hoping someone had the files or an eprom burner, though.

75 bucks is just outrageously more than I can spend for a 5 dollar eprom w/program...especially for 2-3 machines. These just are not worth it.

If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.

Thanks all!
 
just buy it you cheap bastard!!

the bonus is you have one right? you just need to find somebody local who can dump the info from that rom to two new ones and tada. i do not have a burner but its on my list of things to get someday.
 
I could spend 75 in a heartbeat on pinball parts, but slots????....lol - just kiddin (not that I have that much extra dough right now anyway).

Prob is that all 3 of my machines (while the same model) have different payouts so all 3 require different game files burned. I'm not sure that the one I have is any good anyway (or even for any of the ones I have!). I basically got 3 machines and a bunch of parts in a box (already conveniently torn apart and monkeyed with for my enjoyment - lol)...

3 basic eproms = 225 bucks! Yikes!!!!
 
I would not recommend spending much money fixing one of these if you plan on re-selling them at some point since you will most likely not get your money back.

You might want to see if you can find someone at www.newlifegames.org to burn the chips for you.
 
ya, I kinda figured they were not worth putting much into; more like fun for me to tinker with. They are not the most stylish of machines...

Thanks for the tips! I'll check out that link for sure!!
 
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