Suicide battery on CPS2 dead?

Jerel63

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What's happening all you hep cats? I just wanted to find out what some symptoms of dead Cps2 boards are. I currently own 4 and knock on wood haven't had any trouble with them but I would like to know what are tell tale signs of a dead battery. Thanks alot!!
 
When the battery dies on a CPS-2 cartridge the game will not boot at all.

You will get a solid blue or green screen when attempting to power the game up.

Fortunately the games can be revived if you don't get the battery changed before it dies. Depending on your feelings about it, you can replace the battery about once every five years and the cart should be fine or you could just have the board "phoneixed" and not have to worry about the game ever dying on you.

I have had all of my CPS-2 carts "phoneixed" just to avoid an unfortunate suprise when I want to play one of them.

Brian.
 
getting them phoenixed will require you to reburn some of the eproms and removing the dead battery (just cut the legs). so you will need to invest in a uv eraser + burner which is compatible with those eproms, or get someone else to burn them for you.
 
So who is the best of the best when it comes to Phoenixing boards? Would anyone happen to know how much it would cost to do that?
 
I charge $25 + 25 Euros (goes to Razoola for the code) + parts (usually none) + shipping to phoenix CPS2 systems.

The code for CPS1.5 systems is public domain so to phoenix those it's just $25 + parts (usually none) + shipping.

Sometimes you have an EPROM that won't erase/reprogram or some games require larger or faster EPROMs (CPS1.5)... or a small 4002 IC (some CPS1.5)

Keep in mind there ARE CPS2 games that cannot be phoenixed. You're better off changing batteries and keeping the carts original as long as you can.

RJ
 
With the erasing/reprogramming of EPROMs does this mess with the graphics, sound or game play in anyway?
 
I only ever changed the batteries on my games so I've never seen it first hand, but to my understanding it will say "Phoenix Edition" on power-up, and there's another menu that does things that I can't remember right now. But the gameplay is unchanged, the Phoenix roms eliminate the need for the special decryption scheme, basically.
 
I only ever changed the batteries on my games so I've never seen it first hand, but to my understanding it will say "Phoenix Edition" on power-up, and there's another menu that does things that I can't remember right now. But the gameplay is unchanged, the Phoenix roms eliminate the need for the special decryption scheme, basically.

Ooooohhh!! Thanks Mecha I can always count on you to break it down big bird style for me:)
 
Startup screen:
0002.png


The menu has a jukebox and allows you to change the region of the game.
 
The code for CPS1.5 systems is public domain so to phoenix those it's just $25 + parts (usually none) + shipping.

Regarding CPS1.5, we talked about Quiz and Dragons awhile back; has anything changed in the meantime making its resurrection possible?
 
I need to get my 19XX The War gainst Destiny and 1944 The Loop Master Phoenixed.... They're currently working but I'd rather not have to think about when I need to replace the battery. Who can do this in the U.S.?
 
There is no tell tale sign when the battery is about to die. They maintain voltage right until they die.

I have even seen an original battery that tested dead on board, yet when removed from circuit show 3.6v still! After installing the phoenix ROMs, it wouldn't boot for several hours, although it was already dead.

I prefer to keep the games original with the suicide battery, but I install a battery holder that uses an easier to find 1/2 AA 3.6v lithium battery.

No matter your choice, get the original battery off or this can happen:
 

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what I find incredible is my AVP still had the original battery in it and it still worked up til last year... when I of course replaced it finally.

I suppose now is a perfect time to mention that if you buy the CPS2 batteries from Jammaboards.com, there have been reports of people receiving dead batteries.

I also know of a lot of people that install "keystone" battery holders or various other battery holders. these are kinda frowned upon because you introduce multiple failure points and if in the event you dropped the board, you would most likely pop the battery out somehow. there's nothing wrong with soldering 2 leads.. it's pretty painless, especially if you have a proper desoldering tool, even the Radio Shack one is perfect.

the approach that I've read (and have executed fine 3 times in total) is that you power the game on for 20-30 mins, power off, disassemble (be certain you own a security torx bit set, I don't remember the size off-hand unfortunately), have your soldering iron ready, and then make the battery swap, noting obviously of the polarity. (if you install the battery backwards you're screwed.) the reason you run it for awhile is that it keeps enough of a charge to enable you to switch out the old battery for a new one without the voltage dropping to 0.

after that, if you consistently play your game, you'll have a charge running through it to where I guess it won't rely on the backup battery so much.

so we've all seen the original batteries last like 15+ years.. how long should we go before replacing the replacements?
 
I don't understand why anyone would bother with a replacement... Replacing the battery instead of phoenixing the board is simply insane, it's putting a band aid on the problem instead of actually resolving it.
 
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