Suggestions for a WG k4600 in DK cocktail

rwoodruff

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I am looking for some advice with this monitor or any suggestions.

Ok this is a Frankenstein here. I have an original DK cocktail that had the Sanyo monitor removed at some point and very cleverly replaced with a well Gardner k4600. The 13" tube is a toshiba. There is no frame! Quite a pan in the rear! The chassis, tube, and flyback are separately mounted to the cabinet inside and getting to any adjustments is impossible. There isn't a chassis frame to remove. I have to pull each piece separately.

It wasn't working due to a tube home wire the game off the board. I fixed the yoke lead. Recapped and tested with it on my bench. I hooked it up to my multigame test board and set all of the sync and screen positions, and color seeing as I cannot in the cabinet.

My screen on my test was too wide on horizontal but it unfortunately my width coil is frozen.
I reinstalled the monitor to see it on the game and it looks ok except for the horizontal width is too small verses being too big on my test board.

Here is where I am looking for the suggestions. I have not tested B plus yet but will before proceeding. seeing as the width coil is stuck And a replacement is hard to find I was considering adjusting with a width cap kit. If I do I was considering a set of wires souldered to the board to make an aux board that I can get to to take in and out while trying for the right combination or making an extension game board cable to reach the bench.

Any other suggestions here? Is my next step on the right track or should I throw in the towel and rig an LCD into it? I will include some pictures

Thanks in advance guys. And Gals.
 

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first off that should be a K4700 not the K4600. second your width on a nintendo is going to be narrower than a normal jamma game so you may be fine.
 
You have a good image -- why is an LCD even a thought here? That's just ridiculous. Follow your plan and play with the width cap to get it where you want it. Do whatever works to find the right value. Honestly I would just use jumpers with alligator clips until I had the right value then pull it apart, solder the cap in, and put it back together.

A simpler alternative might be to color balance better and bring the black level up. That way you wouldn't have to do anything. It would just be a little narrow and still look great. You just wouldn't see the borders like you do now.
 
Thanks for your input. I do want to keep this one in here. I was going to just adjust it out but.

Things took a turn for the worse unfortunately and also my fault. I brought the game cabinet next to the table to set it to the game board before reinstalling it and a stupid multimeter lead
Slid under the edge of the chasis and made a short at the power supply board.
I am just not having much luck here today.

After I fixed the trace my b+ is low. It's 124 and my horizontal is collapsed in along with a slow refresh wave through the horizontal. My b+ before measured 134.

I replaced the b+ c605 and the TR502 but they were not it.

I broke the glue free from the b+ pot but it dosnt change anything when turned.
I was considering a new b plus pot, TR 502 transistor and the two caps on the power board as next steps.

Any help or pointers for this one is greatly appreciated.
 
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