Successful Blast City Nanao MS-2931 TV Tube Swap

I saw this in your post:

While the original tube on my Blast City had some burn, it still had a decent picture, but the corner convergence really wasn't the best. Unfortunately, without even moving the cabinet where it sat for months, somehow the neck broke underneath the yoke cleanly, almost like it had been cleanly seared off with a light saber.

Which reminded me of some information I came across in this thread:

update on my tube. Tried another chassis/yoke combination on it, still dead. Got nice sparks in the neck though, so it really looked like there was no gas in the tube.

I decided to bin the tube and when I removed the yoke, it came right along with the neck of the tube. There was a fracture under the yoke. It was after the yoke mounting point towards the tube. I don't know if that was caused due to the high voltage arcs in the neck or something else.

https://www.arcade-projects.com/for...k-the-tube/&postID=187600&2e053c7c#post187600

The person who started the thread claims that there's a problem with these chassis, where they can kill the tube with HV.
 
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I would have to say it seems like that's what happened to this original tube. Whether or not the reality, it seemed like the tube had been electrically cut underneath the yoke closer to the front of the tube than where the yoke screws on. I also never heard a hiss sound which is typical when a neck breaks, so maybe it had a slow crack.
 
I would have to say it seems like that's what happened to this original tube. Whether or not the reality, it seemed like the tube had been electrically cut underneath the yoke closer to the front of the tube than where the yoke screws on. I also never heard a hiss sound which is typical when a neck breaks, so maybe it had a slow crack.

I'm just thinking you probably want to verify that the chassis is in good working order, so you don't risk killing that nice burn-free tube you just swapped in.

I have never owned nor worked on this monitor, so I can only really repeat what I've read elsewhere.
 
The chassis is in good working order now, this has had caps replaced and I put a new flyback on it that's really solid. The original flyback almost seemed to "leak electricity". After turning off the monitor previously there would seem to be louder lingering static around the yoke that would crackle. Perhaps overtime something like that slowly caused the breakdown of the glass on the other tube - I'm not sure if that is possible or the cause, but something resulted in the original tube neck breaking under the yoke without exterior force.
 
Apologies for reviving an old thread, but the link is no longer valid. By chance do you have the TV make and model that worked for you?
 
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