stupid k7000 question

cadillacman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
15,504
Reaction score
542
Location
Roscoe, Illinois
hey have any of you ever powered up a k7000 without a fly?

I have a new fly here, last chassis i tried using this fly with kept popping fuses, i gave up and pulled the fly to reuse.


thinking mabye its defective after all.

can i hurt anything running the chassis without the fly? i want to see if i can pull it and stop popping fuses
 
idk, but functionally speaking all it does it charge and focus the tube right?

I just wonder what kind of hell that would create for the B+ with there being no HV load present. might be bad. and consider what happens when there's a bad, non-working flyback in there. *POOF* right? :)
 
Yeah this damn thing.. its gonna be another headscratcher.. it go tit all and still popping fuses with no good reason, just liek the last chassis..

the only thing the same between the two is this flyback, so im wondering if its just feeked.
 
im at the point that i need to get one. getting sick of this krap. And of course this is for a fellow forum member heh.. thats the way it always goes isnt it?
 
You should be able to power up the chassis without a flyback. The horizontal processing IC2 gets it's power from the flyback.

Be sure to check the neckboard to see if any of the three color transistors are shorted. They get their power from a winding on the flyback. Remember also that there is a high voltage diode inside the flyback. It could be shorted which of course means replacing the flyback.
 
found another nib flyback from the same batch last night, installed and same.

Hot still checking good ( no short between pins 2 and 3)

v reg not testing shorted.

diodes not testing shorted.

c36 still checking ok no short

going to pull flyback now and retest. that should give me a point to start from if it stops blowing fuses. mabye that ic2 got shorted or something
 
Just curious - do you have the degauser plugged in as your trying this? Have you tried unplugging that and/or disconnecting the varistor that runs it? I've had a few go bad over the years.
 
*** testing done with components either removed or with one leg pulled up for proper readings***

c38 not shorted. d14, d13 check ok( open in ohms test, 0.4v one way open the other in diode check

d18 ohms open, 0.4v one way, open the other in diode test......

d19-d22 check open in ohms, .5v one way open the other in diode check

d16+17 ohm open, .38v one way and open the other in diode test....

d23, 24 check open in ohms, .5 one way open the other.

r105( disc looking thingy-thermister???) ohms dead shorted. Please tell me i found my issue.
EDIT- now that itas been out awhile its ohming 8 ohms ...wtf. i swear it was dead dead ashorted when i first pulled it out.
 
Last edited:
A thermister will usually read that way. They increase or decrease resistance as they heat up...
 
ok the hunt will continue. Im at the point that i might be giving up on this k7000, too.

man this sucks. I cant keep letting these blowing fuses k7000s kick my tail.
 
Pull out the wallet and ask my address. Send me one, let me fix it, then use the knowledge of what was wrong to possibly help you fix the others...
 
nevarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

What sucks is i have two other 25 inch chassis i can try to fox, but dammit man i want to figure this one out instead of going lazy and stripping it to fix another chassis.
 
I have offically given up on this one. Its popping fuses for no good damn reason.

I ended up yanking the flyback to fix a diff chassis i had that was in hv shutdown. Beautiful pic, so i know flyback replacement#2 was also good.

If i ever get back to this, i will update. but for now, i have given up. Thats 2x k7000 fuse poppers that have kicked me right in the balls.
 
Back
Top Bottom