Stripping cabinet...
- Thread starter vbtalent
- Start date
I finally finished the outhole graphics and should now be ready for water slide decals (see attached). I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to print them on white backed paper of I'm going to see if I get someone to help me print them on an Alps printer. The only concern about the Alps is color matching... I'll see this weekend.
I've also sanded all the inserts, stating with 400 grit then 600 then 1200 they came out nice and smooth no longer cupped. I need to re-glue them but I think I'm going to spray the lime green on the playfield, there's just too much wear to ignore, no sense in coming this far and quitting..
VB,
I've also sanded all the inserts, stating with 400 grit then 600 then 1200 they came out nice and smooth no longer cupped. I need to re-glue them but I think I'm going to spray the lime green on the playfield, there's just too much wear to ignore, no sense in coming this far and quitting..
VB,
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Just an update on the kickout hole wear spots...
Since I can't print my images on a clear decal and the white backed decal when trimmed flakes and leaves a white edge around the image - I'm left trying to find alternatives and other solutions.
So I think I've come up with an idea that might work, using 2 decals, one on top of the other. The white backed decal for the color and the clear decal for the keylines.
I can think of 1 problem that arises with this concept - positioning the base decal (white backed) how do I get it centered on the PF...
I attached a picture of a white backed decal I quickly trimmed and the other has the keylines on top, it looks good to me...
Anyone ever try this before or can think of any other negatives to this option?
VB,
Since I can't print my images on a clear decal and the white backed decal when trimmed flakes and leaves a white edge around the image - I'm left trying to find alternatives and other solutions.
So I think I've come up with an idea that might work, using 2 decals, one on top of the other. The white backed decal for the color and the clear decal for the keylines.
I can think of 1 problem that arises with this concept - positioning the base decal (white backed) how do I get it centered on the PF...
I attached a picture of a white backed decal I quickly trimmed and the other has the keylines on top, it looks good to me...
Anyone ever try this before or can think of any other negatives to this option?
VB,
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I began the test today of trying to lay 2 layers of water slide decals on top of each other on a box top, it had a nice clean polyurethane top and was handy... :>)
Anyway, I cleaned the top with a little magic eraser and alcohol to prep it.
I trimmed the color decal by basically cutting the outer keyline in half I hope this will allow the top decal to cover the imperfections and white edge when I lay it on top.
The decals I have (Papillio) say to use hot water - so I heated some up and tanked the decal, slid it of the backing and applied it to the top.
I didn't buy any solvent solution but I might consider getting some, not sure what it helps with since the water allows the decal to slide around for positioning. I did buy some setting solution (Micro-Sol), not sure if this is a "Setting" and "Solvent" solution wrapped into a single product...
Anyway, after the application of the decal I had to blot it dry and gently work out some bubbles, then I let it dry. Against all my instincts shortly after the solvent had dried I sprayed a heavy coat of Water based Polyurethane.. see pics. As you can see the keylines didn't print to well on this image but the top decal should cover all of that.
At this point the base coat of polyurethane needs a light sanding due to some dirt, then the real test, the top decal. It will have to wait until the weekend.. the Turkey is calling.
VB,
Anyway, I cleaned the top with a little magic eraser and alcohol to prep it.
I trimmed the color decal by basically cutting the outer keyline in half I hope this will allow the top decal to cover the imperfections and white edge when I lay it on top.
The decals I have (Papillio) say to use hot water - so I heated some up and tanked the decal, slid it of the backing and applied it to the top.
I didn't buy any solvent solution but I might consider getting some, not sure what it helps with since the water allows the decal to slide around for positioning. I did buy some setting solution (Micro-Sol), not sure if this is a "Setting" and "Solvent" solution wrapped into a single product...
Anyway, after the application of the decal I had to blot it dry and gently work out some bubbles, then I let it dry. Against all my instincts shortly after the solvent had dried I sprayed a heavy coat of Water based Polyurethane.. see pics. As you can see the keylines didn't print to well on this image but the top decal should cover all of that.
At this point the base coat of polyurethane needs a light sanding due to some dirt, then the real test, the top decal. It will have to wait until the weekend.. the Turkey is calling.
VB,
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This is a really informative thread for complicated playfield touch-ups. I look forward to your next update. Thanks for sharing.
The clear dried and I lightly sanded it with 600 grit, wiped it off and applied the keylines then some more clear when it was dry, a heavy coat.
I also accidentally ripped the decal when removing it from the backing, the water hadn't separated them yet, because this was a test I just positioned it as close as possible and went on with it..
The results are attached.
Even though it's not perfect it's light years ahead of where it was. The keylines I'm using must not be from the same "colored" image since they don't fit 100%, only around the head and upper shoulder area so I'll go back and take a look at that. Other than that this is a very promising solution and frankly I think looks great on my sample, now for the real thing...
VB,
I also accidentally ripped the decal when removing it from the backing, the water hadn't separated them yet, because this was a test I just positioned it as close as possible and went on with it..
The results are attached.
Even though it's not perfect it's light years ahead of where it was. The keylines I'm using must not be from the same "colored" image since they don't fit 100%, only around the head and upper shoulder area so I'll go back and take a look at that. Other than that this is a very promising solution and frankly I think looks great on my sample, now for the real thing...
VB,
Attachments
I went ahead and airbrushed the Lime Green on the playfield as it was pretty beat up and I needed to touch up some areas anyway. I don't like the color match but what can you do, I simply failed at mixing and matching... arrgh!!!
Since I sprayed the majority of the Lime Green color I hope it won't be too noticeable.
After the paint has had a couple of days to set I give it a light sand to get rid of the edges from the frisket and then I'll re-install the inserts and get ready for some clear.
VB,
Since I sprayed the majority of the Lime Green color I hope it won't be too noticeable.
After the paint has had a couple of days to set I give it a light sand to get rid of the edges from the frisket and then I'll re-install the inserts and get ready for some clear.
VB,
Attachments
I reinstalled all the inserts today using some thick CA and a flat flat piece of steel to seat them with.
I had to repaint the key lines around the center image and I simply just masked that off and hand painted it. With all the extensive repair to the center image I'm not surprised but since I was this far into the project I figured I might as well.
I also lightly sanded the entire playfield to get rid of the edges caused by the Frisket when peeled up..
I'm going to try and shoot some clear on it tomorrow so that I can lay the color water slide decals on the out holes.. getting close to finishing this project.
VB,
I had to repaint the key lines around the center image and I simply just masked that off and hand painted it. With all the extensive repair to the center image I'm not surprised but since I was this far into the project I figured I might as well.
I also lightly sanded the entire playfield to get rid of the edges caused by the Frisket when peeled up..
I'm going to try and shoot some clear on it tomorrow so that I can lay the color water slide decals on the out holes.. getting close to finishing this project.
VB,
Attachments
Well I finally shot some clear last night.... I can see the finish line. I'm using Water Based Varathane, I had to order it from the West Coast as I couldn't find any locally, so I bought a case of it.
The only real prep was to wipe the surface lightly with some Naptha and then to make sure I had plugged all the light socket holes (I used foam ear plugs) and taped off the other holes. I also took the old rollover stars and inverted them in the rollover insert on the PF so that they wouldn't get clogged up with clear, I removed them after spraying, don't leave them in the PF while drying.
I laid the first coat actually pretty heavy since I knew I was going to be doing some sanding to level the surface. I also wanted a good base coat for the decals to stick like my sample work that I had done before. I can see I'm going to need a few coats of clear...
I'll let that sit a day or so and then I'll lay on the colored decals.
VB,
The only real prep was to wipe the surface lightly with some Naptha and then to make sure I had plugged all the light socket holes (I used foam ear plugs) and taped off the other holes. I also took the old rollover stars and inverted them in the rollover insert on the PF so that they wouldn't get clogged up with clear, I removed them after spraying, don't leave them in the PF while drying.
I laid the first coat actually pretty heavy since I knew I was going to be doing some sanding to level the surface. I also wanted a good base coat for the decals to stick like my sample work that I had done before. I can see I'm going to need a few coats of clear...
I'll let that sit a day or so and then I'll lay on the colored decals.
VB,
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craigmack
Member
Are you selling this playfield after you're done as I know you found another one?
The first coat of clear has dried, so I broke out my sanding block. I used a rubber block to try and start leveling the play field.
With the paint edges that were created from the frisket and touch ups quite frankly the quantity of paint, leveling the PF should be interesting. I just don't know how much clear will be needed to create a "glass" surface..
I started with some 320 and sanded it dry avoiding getting any buildup on the surface of the PF by wiping it frequently with a rag and making sure the sand paper didn't get clogged up. I bought some Norton sand paper as was suggested somewhere else that I read (Home Depot) on the web. After the 320 I hit it with some 600, all the time I was careful not to "break" through the clear, mostly I wanted to make sure the dirt, and other junk in the clear got removed and to leave some clear and a good surface for the color decals.
I applied some decal setting solution right before I applied the color decals and that seemed to work better than applying it after wards. After the decals had a chance to dry I shot another coat of clear, I probably could have used some Naptha again but just used a tack cloth to wipe the surface before spraying.
I'll wait another day and sand the surface then apply the key lines to the color decals and other parts of the play field before really trying to level the PF.
VB,
With the paint edges that were created from the frisket and touch ups quite frankly the quantity of paint, leveling the PF should be interesting. I just don't know how much clear will be needed to create a "glass" surface..
I started with some 320 and sanded it dry avoiding getting any buildup on the surface of the PF by wiping it frequently with a rag and making sure the sand paper didn't get clogged up. I bought some Norton sand paper as was suggested somewhere else that I read (Home Depot) on the web. After the 320 I hit it with some 600, all the time I was careful not to "break" through the clear, mostly I wanted to make sure the dirt, and other junk in the clear got removed and to leave some clear and a good surface for the color decals.
I applied some decal setting solution right before I applied the color decals and that seemed to work better than applying it after wards. After the decals had a chance to dry I shot another coat of clear, I probably could have used some Naptha again but just used a tack cloth to wipe the surface before spraying.
I'll wait another day and sand the surface then apply the key lines to the color decals and other parts of the play field before really trying to level the PF.
VB,
Attachments
Hey VB, great progress but I'm curious why wouldn't you apply the black keylines before applying the first layer of clear?
The color decals needed to go down before the key lines since the key lines lay on top of the color.
I'm finding that the decals adhere better to clear than just the plywood surface. I didn't want to chance laying two decals on top of each other so it needed a layer of clear in between the two.
The other thing is that it looks like the PF is going to need a few layers to smooth it out, so the extra clear isn't a bad thing just more time.
Every time I lay down a decal, it looks like it needs about 2 layers to level out to the thickness of the decal..
VB,
I'm finding that the decals adhere better to clear than just the plywood surface. I didn't want to chance laying two decals on top of each other so it needed a layer of clear in between the two.
The other thing is that it looks like the PF is going to need a few layers to smooth it out, so the extra clear isn't a bad thing just more time.
Every time I lay down a decal, it looks like it needs about 2 layers to level out to the thickness of the decal..
VB,
I see. The Horus/Ra (?) decals look great. Lots of work here and I 'm sure someone would love to have this playfield for their Cleopatra although it would make a nice wallhanging. Looking forward to seeing this finished and hear your thoughts on the process overall.
I did a light sanding today only with 600 and then applied the key lines to the out holes and to the center graphics as well as some of the numbering, etc. on the PF that I had airbrushed over.
When they were dry I shot another heavy coat of clear.. it was milky white when I was done spraying.
The key lines look great, better than I expected, the more I laid the more comfortable I've become with the process. Using setting solution before applying the decal is a good process to follow, also making sure the decal is "ready" to slide of the paper backing, I've had to wait a little while for the larger decals. If you go to soon they tear...
There are a few later pictures that have some white underneath the decals, I got a little worried but they came out when cleared. I think it may have come from the setting solution?
I need to create and print some key lines for the inserts. Since I'm spraying the PF I might as well use decals instead of painting them so I'm kind of on hold at the moment as I ran out of decal paper.
Speaking of decal paper, I had ordered some Bel's decal paper and wasn't very happy with it. I printed some graphics on them and the toner literally wiped off in my hands, since I've used Papilio (Papilio Laser Clear Bake On Waterslide Decal Paper / Papilio Laser White Bake On Waterslide Decal Paper) decals that's all I can attest to.
VB,
When they were dry I shot another heavy coat of clear.. it was milky white when I was done spraying.
The key lines look great, better than I expected, the more I laid the more comfortable I've become with the process. Using setting solution before applying the decal is a good process to follow, also making sure the decal is "ready" to slide of the paper backing, I've had to wait a little while for the larger decals. If you go to soon they tear...
There are a few later pictures that have some white underneath the decals, I got a little worried but they came out when cleared. I think it may have come from the setting solution?
I need to create and print some key lines for the inserts. Since I'm spraying the PF I might as well use decals instead of painting them so I'm kind of on hold at the moment as I ran out of decal paper.
Speaking of decal paper, I had ordered some Bel's decal paper and wasn't very happy with it. I printed some graphics on them and the toner literally wiped off in my hands, since I've used Papilio (Papilio Laser Clear Bake On Waterslide Decal Paper / Papilio Laser White Bake On Waterslide Decal Paper) decals that's all I can attest to.
VB,
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