Stripping cabinet...

vbtalent

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Cleopatra Restore... (was Stripping cabinet)

My pin was painted by the previous owner with latex paint... I can see that the stenciling is still showing through the paint so I'm going to attempt to strip it.

I read the article at (http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#paint) 2b and it says to pour GoofOff on and let it set then scrape it off. I tried this on a small area and the stenciling seems to also be coming up although so is the paint.

Is there a trick to getting the paint up and not the stencil?

VB,
 
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My pin was painted by the previous owner with latex paint... I can see that the stenciling is still showing through the paint so I'm going to attempt to strip it.

I read the article at (http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#paint) 2b and it says to pour GoofOff on and let it set then scrape it off. I tried this on a small area and the stenciling seems to also be coming up although so is the paint.

Is there a trick to getting the paint up and not the stencil?

VB,

Goof off is pretty powerful, it's no secret it will take any and all paint off. I would try a biodegradable stripper, LATEX paint remover like Oops, or a citrus cleaner like Goo gone, though that much Goo Gone will cost you a fortune.
 
Thanks for the reply.

What type of paint did they use for stencil back in the 80's? enamel?

Do they still make stencils for older Pins so that I could repaint if necessary?
 
Good link but limited stencil kits... thanks.

Any suggestions for trying it myself assuming I can get one side to trace or a combination of both sides?

VB,
 
Good link but limited stencil kits... thanks.

Any suggestions for trying it myself assuming I can get one side to trace or a combination of both sides?

VB,
I've done a few. I just used sheets of clear mylar. Worked great. I just traced the artwork then cut it out with a razor knife.

Glennon
 
What possesses people to paint over perfectly fine artwork is beyond me... I just don't understand.

Anyway I thought I would post a few pics of how it came out... don't know if people even care.

As you can see from the one side that the stripping took its toll but on the other side its acceptable enough for use but I think I have to repaint since I wouldn't be able to match the sides and it would look worse than just plain white paint, arrgh!

The only problem I see with repainting is the backcase is perfectly fine but shows its age, faded colors and all.

I used Motsenbachers "Lift Off". The instructions say to leave on for 6-10 minutes but that is too long, 2 1/2-3 minutes was plenty of time, ymmv. I also learned that it was a one time pass, if the paint didn't come off with the original pass and I tried to re-apply it started taking off the stenciling. Also, a plastic scraper was the key, rags smeared and messed up the stenciling.


So where would I get mylar and how is it manufactured, sheets, rolls, etc.? is there a thickness difference?

VB,
 

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Been doing some research to try and identify the best product to use for stenciling the cabinet however I'm ignorant to what a "matte finish" is and the difference between it and a clear finish. I assume "matte" is similar to tracing paper and can be drawn on?

I came across this stencil material in 7.5mil (.0075) called "Blank mylar" but just am not sure if this is the correct material not to mention they recommend a stencil tool for cutting, this is getting pricey..

http://www.stencilease.com/db/display.asp?input=1989

But since this is a one timer.. I'm thinking thinner would be OK .005 (5mil?) and I could cut it with a razor knife.

http://www.shopatron.com/products/p...number=R05DM2012/527.0.1.1.20226.20228.0.0.0?

Just throwing out information to the group hoping someone with some experience could chime in...

Thanks,
 
Wow! lots of activity on the site...

I thought I would post some progress pics after buying some stenciling material now that this has turned into a project.

I attached a couple of pics of the stenciling - before and after.

I have a couple of questions.

1) - How do I match Pantone colors from a color chart, I have a number can that be used?

2) In one of the pics below I had to remove the chrome sides of the cabinet and banged up the nails when doing so, where I can I buy new nails like the one shown?

Thanks as usual.

VB,
 

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Wow! lots of activity on the site...

I thought I would post some progress pics after buying some stenciling material now that this has turned into a project.

I attached a couple of pics of the stenciling - before and after.

I have a couple of questions.

1) - How do I match Pantone colors from a color chart, I have a number can that be used?

2) In one of the pics below I had to remove the chrome sides of the cabinet and banged up the nails when doing so, where I can I buy new nails like the one shown?

Thanks as usual.

VB,
You can buy those at any hardware store. Braided nails.

Glennon
 
Looking good.

1) Once you have a pantone match in the book, take that sample into any place that mixes paint and they can custom mix that color for you.

2) Hardware store, my local Ace has them, just ask the friendly sales person.



Wow! lots of activity on the site...

I attached a couple of pics of the stenciling - before and after.

I have a couple of questions.

1) - How do I match Pantone colors from a color chart, I have a number can that be used?

2) In one of the pics below I had to remove the chrome sides of the cabinet and banged up the nails when doing so, where I can I buy new nails like the one shown?

Thanks as usual.

VB,
 
Thanks guys.

As I was falling asleep last night I remembered that I wanted to ask a couple of other basic questions about the paint and application.

- What kind of paint should I use latex, acrylic? If its to be mixed wouldn't it be latex?
- How should it be applied to the cabinet and the stencil roller, sprayed?

Also, I'm curious about the play field restoration. I've seen the use of decal paper for some graphics particularly on Marvins site with Fast Draw (http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/fdrawpf.htm). What's your thoughts on using them any caveats and concerns?

VB,
 
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The base coat can be rolled on with a foam roller or sprayed if you wanted to..several coats..but the stenciled colors should be sprayed like they were originally. Some paint places will actually mix the paint and put in a aerosol can for you so you can get the same desired effect without the expense of having to purchase a paint gun which in this case you shouldn't need because the original stencils were sprayed on.
 
Anyone have thoughts or experiences with the decal paper application?

VB,
 
I thought I would post some progress pictures if anyone was interested... I was unable to match the faded color of the head so I broke down and repainted it white, I'm not happy about it but what can I do...

I managed to find some paint colors that I think are close but as usual paint matching is tough. I'm a little surprised since in 1977, how many paint colors could they have. I don't remember ever walking into a hardware store and being inundated with paint colors like you do now at Lowe's and Home Depot.

I think I just have to realize that there just isn't much I could have done with my limited resources and experience, it wasn't going to be factory at any point. When its done at least it will be saved and in great condition.

Have a great day!

VB,
 

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Thanks mrslo...

I bought from stencilease (blank mylar)- http://www.stencilease.com/db/display.asp?input=1989

The hassle is that the material is too thick for a razor knife to cut cleanly so I had to cut it with a burner. I actually used an old soldering tip that I filed down and bent on an angle it was a little too large for the job but worked. If I were to do it again I would have bought a cheap stencil burner...

I would also spray the base white instead of rolling it - it just always looks nicer when its sprayed.

VB,
 
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