Street Fighter 2 CE in 3-KOAM Z back arcade cabinet.

Toinneke79

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Hello,

I've bought a Z back arcade cabinet from the States.
Was sold as playing blind with working pcb.

Tested the pcb in my other cabinet and it works but has some graphical issues maybe due to the "special roms? See pictures. Nevertheless I'm looking for the original CE roms or the Hyper fighting roms.
Thanks in advance.

The cabinet has a huge krack in the front panel and needs to be replaced. Also needs some woodrepair in the corner and new legs.

My questions are related to the wiring and the power supply.

It is a switching power supply 110V-230V with 2 power on/of switches.
In the cabinet near the coin counter there is also a power switch. I assume this is the remote power switch which has a seperate wireloom?

I've noticed that the white wire from the power supply to the ISO tranfo was not connected. I assume that this could be a possible problem why it was playing blind?

I will now test the power supply 230V input and will measure the different outputs with DMM but would like to know how I measure it correctly? Where do I place black and red pole?

I will test the crt monitor with my other cabinet by connection it to the crt power connector.

If everything works I only need a new isolation transformer 220v to 110v and a new marquee light.

Correct me if I 'm wrong please.
 

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Hello,

Tested the pcb in my other cabinet and it works but has some graphical issues maybe due to the "special roms? See pictures. Nevertheless I'm looking for the original CE roms or the Hyper fighting roms.
Thanks in advance.

It is a switching power supply 110V-230V with 2 power on/of switches.
In the cabinet near the coin counter there is also a power switch. I assume this is the remote power switch which has a seperate wireloom?

I've noticed that the white wire from the power supply to the ISO tranfo was not connected. I assume that this could be a possible problem why it was playing blind?

I will now test the power supply 230V input and will measure the different outputs with DMM but would like to know how I measure it correctly? Where do I place black and red pole?

I will test the crt monitor with my other cabinet by connection it to the crt power connector.

If everything works I only need a new isolation transformer 220v to 110v and a new marquee light.

1) These are the bootleg 'rainbow edition' CE roms. The graphics glitches are likely the graphics roms having a bad connection, reseat them. If this doesn't help, reseat the A+B+C boards. If that doesn't help, you will need another cps1 boardset to test each of the boards.

2) This PSU has the option for using the built in switch or a remote switch, there are instructions on the unit about how to set the switches to use either. I believe both need to be off to use the remote switch. The remote switch needs to be a DPST and connects to the PSU via the 4 pin harness (wire diagram is on the psu)


2) Most likely. IDK about non-110v setups, but the input wires on the ISO are usually the bottom sides. On these 3koam cabs, the outputs go to the marquee and monitor.

3) Not sure what you're asking. The PSU will take the A/C input and make it DC +5/12v on the 9 pin harness and the 3 pin harness passes though A/C power. Note that this PSU has 2 9-pin DC outputs, one won't be needed for this cab.

There are several threads about how to better mount these aftermarket PSUs in these cabs


Also I have a full resto thread about this cab that might be useful to you.

 
Last edited:
Regarding your ROMs, read this thread.


I have a spare set of HF and CE ROMs.
 
Update on this thread.

I've tested the PSU outside the cabinet and it works.
DC voltages were all in good range. AC output was 128 V on the black and white wire and is connected to the 115V and 0V input on the ISO tranfo.
Crt monitor and marquee light connected to the output of the ISO tranfo.

My question :
I measure 128V AC output on the PSU. Do I need to connect it to 125V input lug of the ISO transfo are can I keep it connected as it is now?


This means I only need to change the power input of the PSU to play this American cabinet in Europe. Just awesome.

I my Dynamo HS1 arcade cabinet I needed to rebuild the complete power supply board via the Bob Roberts power supply scheme.
 

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Update on this thread.

I've tested the PSU outside the cabinet and it works.
DC voltages were all in good range. AC output was 128 V on the black and white wire and is connected to the 115V and 0V input on the ISO tranfo.
Crt monitor and marquee light connected to the output of the ISO tranfo.

My question :
I measure 128V AC output on the PSU. Do I need to connect it to 125V input lug of the ISO transfo are can I keep it connected as it is now?


This means I only need to change the power input of the PSU to play this American cabinet in Europe. Just awesome.

I my Dynamo HS1 arcade cabinet I needed to rebuild the complete power supply board via the Bob Roberts power supply scheme.

The 3 pin aux AC power connector goes to your ISO and the 4 Pin switch connector goes to your switch at the coin door. The only major issue you have right now is that you are using an AT form factor power supply when the cutout you have there is for an XT unit.
 
The 3 pin aux AC power connector goes to your ISO and the 4 Pin switch connector goes to your switch at the coin door. The only major issue you have right now is that you are using an AT form factor power supply when the cutout you have there is for an XT unit.

I will make a wooden frame to attach the PSU.


My question :
I measure 128V AC output on the PSU. Do I need to connect it to 125V input lug of the ISO transfo are can I keep it connected as it is now?
 
I will make a wooden frame to attach the PSU.


My question :
I measure 128V AC output on the PSU. Do I need to connect it to 125V input lug of the ISO transfo are can I keep it connected as it is now?

Are you running in 220v mode? If so then that would be an interesting question.
 
Yes, we use 230V in Europe.
The AC output of my PSU is 128V so it seems logic that I connect the black wire to the 125V lug input on the ISO tranfo and the white wire on the 0V.

Output will be nevertheless 115V coming from the ISO tranfo to the crt power connector and lights.
 
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