Strange Sanyo Issue

[FrizzleFried]

Well, I just checked and I am getting 119.4v at the power connector. When I was there I traced the power wire back to the chassis and noticed there is a box with the words 125V 4A... which is near where the power wires meet the chassis. I assume that is the rating of the fuses where are also near by? I can't find a 20EZ photo on the net that shows that area well enough to know if that's on all EZ chassis...

 

[Gonzo22]

I just checked my spare EZV chasis, and the 125v 4A was on it, if that helps at all.

 

[mhanlen1]

I assume that is the rating of the fuses where are also near by? I can't find a 20EZ photo on the net that shows that area well enough to know if that's on all EZ chassis...

I'm certain that stamp refers to the fuse rating right above it, and not anything that has to do with monitor voltage. That fuse should be a 4a 125v- thats what's in mine. That denotation refers to that particular fuse only, because there's at least 1 other on the board that's rated 300ma. 300ma are hard to find so I had to replace mine with a .315ma fuse. Which works fine.

 

[FrizzleFried]

Yeah.... I am on the look out for a 100v step-down transformer.

 

[gregatron]

Hey Frizz, I'm sure that needs to be ran at 100V as everyone has stated but I am curious to know what the B+ volts is when the incoming AC is @ 120V?

 

[FrizzleFried]

Hey Frizz, I'm sure that needs to be ran at 100V as everyone has stated but I am curious to know what the B+ volts is when the incoming AC is @ 120V?

Measuring the B+ on a Sanyo is a bitch if I recall correctly... no? If someone wants to lemme know how to do it, I'll give her a whirl before I swap out ISO's...

BTW - Will a switcher run off 100v or am I going to need to rewire the switcher before the ISO?

 

[Pac-Fan]

BTW - Will a switcher run off 100v or am I going to need to rewire the switcher before the ISO?

A switcher has built in isolation through the use of the high frequency transformers. There is no need to put it behind any iso. Also multiple items behind the same iso mean they're no longer isolated from each other. Generally not a problem and Nintendo cabs are designed this way, but most other cabs never put the switcher or marquee lamp behind it, they are directly running off mains.

In addition, putting the switcher past the iso, means you're drawing more amps through the iso, and may burn it out depending on the amp rating of it. Many are only designed to run .8 to 1.5 amps on the secondary winding.

Just run the switcher before the iso like any other cab.

 

[gregatron]

Measuring the B+ on a Sanyo is a bitch if I recall correctly... no? If someone wants to lemme know how to do it, I'll give her a whirl before I swap out ISO's...

Well, it's not all that much of a bitch. Your test points are negative lead to the chassis and the positive lead to test pin BJ. Your meter should be set on DCV. The best way I have found is to place an alligator clip on BJ and then apply power to the monitor. The BJ pin is located in pretty much the center of the board.

 

[mhanlen1]

Measuring the B+ on a Sanyo is a bitch if I recall correctly... no? If someone wants to lemme know how to do it, I'll give her a whirl before I swap out ISO's...

BTW - Will a switcher run off 100v or am I going to need to rewire the switcher before the ISO?

Check out my noob adventures in attempting this on my cocktail.

Click Here

You need to remember to attach your ground to the monitor frame, because that's why I didn't get a reading at first.

There's also an older thread that you can read about it HERE.

Just like others have mentioned- it's not bad after you find out where everything goes and use a few specific tools. I can pull the monitor and have it ready for adjustment in about 3 minutes or so now. In order to put my lead on the B+ I used an extra long pair of needle nose pliers, as it's just too small of a space to fit my fingers in. In order to turn my B+ pot i combined a straw with a long monitor adjustment tool (with tape).

Hope this helps.