Strange Sanyo Issue

FrizzleFried

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Hows this for strange.... my multicade (Ms. Pac cab) has a Sanyo 20EZ in it... obviously it's the 115v model (I hope)... and it looks beautiful EXCEPT that when it's first powered on... after a few seconds it will start to viberate...the whole screen...moves back and forth for a few seconds (anywhere from 5 to maybe 15 or 20 at the most) then it stops... and doesn't seem to come back. I played for about 40 minutes last night and it never came back. It surely makes this cab a pain in the ass because aside from the minor shaking for a few seconds it looks GREAT...

...but I am guessing the key to success is a "cap kit", eh?
 
I have no idea what I am talking about but wondering, could it be a voltage issue? I know if im playing my dk jr and say the washer turns on the screen will shake for a quick second.
 
Hows this for strange.... my multicade (Ms. Pac cab) has a Sanyo 20EZ in it... obviously it's the 115v model (I hope)... and it looks beautiful EXCEPT that when it's first powered on... after a few seconds it will start to viberate...the whole screen...moves back and forth for a few seconds (anywhere from 5 to maybe 15 or 20 at the most) then it stops... and doesn't seem to come back. I played for about 40 minutes last night and it never came back. It surely makes this cab a pain in the ass because aside from the minor shaking for a few seconds it looks GREAT...

...but I am guessing the key to success is a "cap kit", eh?

From my experience over the years....
Nintendo used the Sanyo 20EZV series.....the 100VAC input we all know and love.
Atari used (stock) Sanyo 20EZY series....this is a 120VAC input monitor. I've seen this factory in several Dig Dug's. There are subtle differences....but the easiest way to tell which you have, the big B+ filter cap. The EZV uses a 470uf160V cap.....the EZY uses a 330uf200V cap. I've never seen a "stock" Sanyo in a Midway cabinet...though, I'm not saying it didn't happen :)

A Sanyo EZV will operate at 120VAC, but it will drastically shorten it's life.

HTH,
Edward
 
From my experience over the years....
Nintendo used the Sanyo 20EZV series.....the 100VAC input we all know and love.
Atari used (stock) Sanyo 20EZY series....this is a 120VAC input monitor. I've seen this factory in several Dig Dug's. There are subtle differences....but the easiest way to tell which you have, the big B+ filter cap. The EZV uses a 470uf160V cap.....the EZY uses a 330uf200V cap. I've never seen a "stock" Sanyo in a Midway cabinet...though, I'm not saying it didn't happen :)

Do you have a list of the differences? I've never seen it documented.
 
This isn't a stock installation. I need to determine if it's the 100vac or 120vac model... perhaps someone was an idiot and put a 100vac monitor in there? Dunno...

If I took a pic of the chassis would you be able to tell me which one it is 2600?
 
If I took a pic of the chassis would you be able to tell me which one it is 2600?

I'd try, but I'm not sure I've ever seen one in person. Kinda why I was asking about the part differences.

If looking at the monitor from the back, I imagine the section in the back right is populated. If what Elutz says is true, the large capacitor on the left should be 330uf as well.

Either way, pics are always good. Maybe Elutz can help.
 
Here are some photos... the chassis is, of course, in their tight so these were taken "blind". The first one shows a pretty large CAP... I don't recall having one that big on a normal 20EZ?

JR_SANYO1.jpg


JR_SANYO2.jpg


JR_SANYO3.jpg
 
Can you see what it is plugged into power wise? Or measure the power as well? Lots of Transformers stepdown to 100VAC.

That black cap looks like the standard cap that I've seen on all the ones I have. Some of the others have been replaced, but I don't know about all of them. I'd do a FULL cap kit. Most kits don't do all the caps from what I've seen.
 
How bad is the screen shake? like the whole image is moving very small amounts left and right really fast, or further distance back and forth and slower? (hope I didnt make that too confusing.)

The filter cap on that chasis is the same as the one in my donkey kong and is 100v monitor.

Occasionally the screen will shake very rapidly right and left like it is vibrating but its hard to see unless you really look at it when I start the game up but usually goes away in 5 mins or so or will go away instantly once any adjustment pot is moved. Doesnt matter if its on the monitor pots, or the game pcb pots both will remedy it.

Not sure if this is what you have or not, but might be worth a shot.
 
How bad is the screen shake? like the whole image is moving very small amounts left and right really fast, or further distance back and forth and slower? (hope I didnt make that too confusing.)

The filter cap on that chasis is the same as the one in my donkey kong and is 100v monitor.

Occasionally the screen will shake very rapidly right and left like it is vibrating but its hard to see unless you really look at it when I start the game up but usually goes away in 5 mins or so or will go away instantly once any adjustment pot is moved. Doesnt matter if its on the monitor pots, or the game pcb pots both will remedy it.

Not sure if this is what you have or not, but might be worth a shot.


The whole screen shakes... about 1/8 to 1/4". Probably 3-4 shakes per second. It's VERY noticeable and gameplay would be greatly affected by it if it would stay.... but it doesn't... it goes away and seems to stay away.

I'm going to try to capture it on video sometime.
 
OK... I checked and it 100% is running at 120VAC... now, I need to determine if this is a 100VAC model being overdriven or what... now, this cab WAS on-route for what it's worth so it HAS been running for some time at 120VAC regardless of what the chassis is supposed to take.
 
Do you have a list of the differences? I've never seen it documented.

I've never seen it documented, either. The first time I saw one, I didn't believe it. It was in a Dig Dug....I just figured someone hacked a Nintendo monitor into a Dig Dug. Then I noticed all the serial numbers matched...strange. I then thought Atari was using step-down transformers....no. The monitor is receiving 120VAC. I have since seen three of these stock in Atari machines. I didn't try to document it all....I just made a few notes of the obvious differences....The actual monitor circuit boards are the same....just different values of certain parts and part locations populated, that are usually empty

First, the metal monitor frame was stamped 20EZY....where it is usually stamped 20EZV....also, the flyback cage was stamped with EZY. This isn't fool-proof, as these parts can easily be swapped between the two.

Second, on the EZY...the inversion section is populated: R213/R214/215/R217/R218/R219/R201/R202/R203/C202/D210/TR201/TR202/TR203. These locations are empty on the Nintendo 20EZV. Now, this is not fool-proof either. Anyone CAN populate these parts on a Nintendo EZV (I have). Bob Roberts even sells a kit to do this.

Third, there's a handful of differences in the monitor's power supply section. The obvious one is the filter cap I mentioned...also, C601 and coil L601 were different. I'm sure there was more, but that is all I noted. Also, the cap kits are different.....


SANYO 20-EZV 19"

1uf50V C166/C302/C453/C454
1uf160V C408/C467/C610
4.7uf25V C162/C411 Both BP Caps
10uf25V C201
10uf50V C301/C303/C406
10uf160V C407/C471
22uf50V C464
47uf10V C458
100uf16V C459
100uf160V C410/C472
220uf16V C161/C202
220uf25V C469
330uf25V C468
470uf10V C609
470uf160V C606 B+ Filter Cap



Audio Board
4.7uf50V C371 BP Cap
4.7uf160V C372/C374
10uf50V C375
10uf160V C378
22uf160V C377
100uf25V C373


Inverter Board
100uf25V C105



Sanyo 20-EZY 19"


1uf50V C166/C302/C453/C454
1uf160V C408/C467/C610
4.7uf25V C162/C411 Both BP Caps
10uf50V C301/C303/C406
10uf160V C407/C471
22uf50V C464
47uf10V C458
100uf16V C459
100uf160V C410/C472
220uf16V C161/C201
220uf25V C469
330uf25V C468
330uf200V C606 B+ Filter Cap
470uf10V C609


Edward
 
If I was going to re-cap this (which I was)...could I simply re-cap it with the EZY cap kit to convert it if it was an EZV? I think it's time to pull the monitor to get a better look. I just can't imagine a 100v monitor taking 120v on location for long.


EDIT: Well now shit. I just checked and both the monitor frame and the flyback cage are stamped EZV. My guess is that this monitor has been overdriven for a long time. I guess my question above still stands. Could I replace EZV caps with the EZY cap values and have a 120v board? If not, I think I want to pull this monitor...but this is a "for sale" cab and dropping a new monitor in it would kill the profit bigtime.
 
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If I was going to re-cap this (which I was)...could I simply re-cap it with the EZY cap kit to convert it if it was an EZV? I think it's time to pull the monitor to get a better look. I just can't imagine a 100v monitor taking 120v on location for long.


EDIT: Well now shit. I just checked and both the monitor frame and the flyback cage are stamped EZV. My guess is that this monitor has been overdriven for a long time. I guess my question above still stands. Could I replace EZV caps with the EZY cap values and have a 120v board? If not, I think I want to pull this monitor...but this is a "for sale" cab and dropping a new monitor in it would kill the profit bigtime.

Frizz, There's other differences besides a few different caps (and I didn't document them all...so, it'll be tough to do). The easiest solution....find a 120VAC/100VAC step-down isolation transformer and toss in it. Any old Nintendo transformer will do. I have also seen them in Centuri games with 100VAC Toei monitors. Bob Roberts (might) have some. I know I got some Centuri ones from him once.


And yeah, I took a better look at your photos....it looks like a Nintendo EZV to me.....The inversion section is empty, choke L601 is the EZV type, and I noticed the external inverter board mounted to the flyback cage (the EZY did not use an external inverter board).

Edward
 
....and I wonder if my "shakes" issue will go away with proper voltage. I think i'll look for a stepdown transformer. Shipping will be a bitch though.

:D
 
Ya know, i tried looking at atari's release of the manual for the 20EZ, but it also states that it is 100vac.

And I had a Centipede that had a 20EZV in it that ran at 120vac for 3 years before burning up one day, so I don't know what's up with that.

The 20EZV manual states that it runs at 100vac +10%/-15%, meaning it would run anywhere between 85-110vac, so if you line voltage is pretty close to 110, then it should work...
 
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