Strange AMP Focus Issue

MonsterBash

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Spend a couple hours search here and vector List and found nothing.

The prequel...

AMP rebuilt by a fellow Klover including new flyback. Got the boards back about 6 months ago and being I'm in the Buffalo area...and the game is still in the garage...didn't touch it until this weekend.

The AMP boards were ran in a AMP for numerous hours before getting returned

The power brick has a new Big Blue and fuses

The board set ran in my upright for about a week straight with numerous games played...rock solid.

So the issue is when the game boots the focus is off a bit...then progressively gets worse until it's just a 'blob' of colors. The after about a minute there's a 'click' in the vector chatter and the screen clears up...then then process starts all over again.

The focus POT on the flyback (not the actual flyback but the assembly next to it) does absolutely nothing...the brightness works fine

Here's a video...the camera was taken off of auto focus so you can see the changes without the camera attempting to correct it. At about the 45 second mark you can see the focus snap back. Through the video there are NO adjustments being made to the monitor


Ideas? Suggestions?

 
I do wanna make sure there's not a problem with the hardness or i got something hook up wrong.

The boards where out of the game when I bought it and I've never seen an AMP before thus I'm not even sure its wired in there properly. I'm 100% confident they left your place working..that's definitely not the issue.

As far as wiring (I'm doing this from memory as I'm in the house)

Obviously the flyback to the tube.
The main 15 pin connector from the boardset to the defection board at also have the 50VAC connection too

There's what looks like a degauss coil with 2 lead. On goes to the deflection board and the other plugs into the hard by the neck board.



There's another 9 pin connector on the deflection board that's in the hardness and looks like it goes to the neck board. and there a 5 pin connector from the yoke to the deflection board.

This morning I tried the ARII from the stand up and no change...the ARII from the cockpit working fine in the standup.


I also clean the snots out of the grounds on the power block.

I'm half tempted to pull the tube and take it in the basement to the standup
 
I just got these back and told Jaime I would check them out this weekend as I was in the middle of testing another set that I just rebuilt for another klover, but curiosity got the best of me and I popped them in my game to check them out. At first there were slight retrace lines and the HV was a little high at 20k, instead of adjusting the brightness, I just brought the HV down a little. The boards are running flawlessly and the focus works. I will finish testing the other set and then run these some more but so far they seem fine and all the voltages check out ok.

edit: even with the retrace lines it was not out of focus. I did not adjust the focus, just tested it to make sure it worked.
 
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Thanks Dave..I really appreciate you checking them out for me.

Now the real question..does anyone want to perform an exorcism for me?

So far I've tried...
Different working power brick
Different working ARII
Different working boardset

Took a 6100 to the cockpit and it worked fine

Could I have a yoke or tube issue?

Is there a difference from a 19" to 25" tube?

*sigh*




I just got these back and told Jaime I would check them out this weekend as I was in the middle of testing another set that I just rebuilt for another klover, but curiosity got the best of me and I popped them in my game to check them out. At first there were slight retrace lines and the HV was a little high at 20k, instead of adjusting the brightness, I just brought the HV down a little. The boards are running flawlessly and the focus works. I will finish testing the other set and then run these some more but so far they seem fine and all the voltages check out ok.
 
I think the only way you are going to exorcise that issue is with a rejuvenator.

Edit: One other thing to check is the pin that is hidden inside that square plastic cover( on the back of the picture tube ), it could be corroded and not making good contact with the neck socket. You would have to take a really small exacto blade or something like it and GENTLY scrape at it a little to clean it up. It will be a little tricky to get to it and you don't want to really put any pressure on it. Don't get crazy on it. That could be your issue and if that does not work then I think a rejuve is the next step.
 
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I just fired up the rejuvenator and tested the CRT (using adapter CR-23). It's probably the best tube I've testing..no leaks..tracking within .5 of each gun (switching guns barely moved the meter). No rejuv necessary but I did clean and balance.

Guess I'll wait for the boards to come back...
 
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