Still one small problem after G07 rebuild

GoneMad

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Just finished doing quite a bit of work on my G07. Here's what's new on it..Flyback, HOT, Voltage Regulator, B+ Pot, all new Pots, cap kit, R908, width coil, and fuses.

I have the B+ running at 119V now, down from 143V it was stuck at. I am still missing about 1/2" on the top and bottom of the monitor. I don't get a lot of adjustment on the pot or when I adjust the width coil. This could be due to the 60 in 1. Also, when I turn the game on, it still takes a while to come on with a nice crisp picture, I would say it takes a good 5 - 10 minutes. Would this be a bad cap or did I miss replacing something along the line?
 
1) If your horizontal width coil doesn't adjust to the extent you want to fill your screen, then you need to change the value of the horizontal width cap:

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/width.html

Smaller value = bigger picture.

2) The screen warmup can be either a chassis issue or a tube issue. For the tube, try rejuvenating it. For the chassis, other than the parts you mentioned, you can try replacing the filter cap, and maybe some rectifying diodes. Not sure if there are other parts that can cause this symptom...
 
All my cap kits come with the filter cap. At this stage, they're 30 years old, and not getting any fresher.

Other than that, I would hit the entire neckboard with fresh solder, and resolder the entire power supply section of the board. Along with any other questionable solder joints.
 
The width coil is new. I do get some adjustment when I adjust it, but not a whole lot. And as far as the adjustment pot, it doesn't give me a whole lot of adjustment before the screen gets all distorted. The filter cap, that is still the same. I don't have a rejuvenator so that's out of the question for now. I haven't reflowed the neckboard yet.
I have not really looked at the width cap, yet.
 
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No. Everything seems to be in it's place good and solid. The game has not been moved since it was last turned off. Other than taking about 10 minutes to get a nice sharp image, the monitor was working great. Would/could the filter cap cause this? Just fired it up, same thing. Blurry as hell.

Seems the more new parts I put on this thing, the worse it gets.
 
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Just so I'm clear; the game suddenly changed orientation?

What game is in this machine, please?

And the video you shot; it's that blurry, all the time? I couldn't make out anything in it.
 
I don't see how the game could turn sideways without the yoke going bad or coming loose...
 
I should clarify, I forgot to in my previous post, for some reason when I take video with my phone and transfer to pc, the orientation changes, so the image on the game is proper. It just stays that blurry no matter how long it's left, you can just barely make out the pacman moving. The game is a 60 in 1. I will reflow the neck board and the focus points and see what that does.
 
Well, make sure your rings didn't move. The convergence is WAY off, and nothing on your chassis should affect that. Unless the tube decided to take a dump...

And check the pins on the neck to make sure you didn't bend or break any when removing and reinstalling the neckboard...
 
Well, make sure your rings didn't move. The convergence is WAY off, and nothing on your chassis should affect that. Unless the tube decided to take a dump...

And check the pins on the neck to make sure you didn't bend or break any when removing and reinstalling the neckboard...

I am going to check the wiring going to the neck board now and also the rings. I do have another tube which I do hope may be compatible with this if all else fails. My friend has 8 games he bought not long ago that are all non-working and 4 have G07's that I get to play with. I just have to wait till he moves his Ford Galaxy our of the way first.
 
Well, the re flow did nothing and also check the rings and wires. Everything seems good. Before when I would power up, it would start out blurry like this, but after it warmed up, I would get a nice sharp screen, now it just stays like this. I may pull this out, stick in a WG for now and see if my other tube will work. If does but still is blurry, I will at least have a burn free tube. Any other suggestions? Really appreciate everything so far.
 
Does the focus change at all when you adjust the focus setting?

It does do something, but not what it should. The images get brighter and darker, but not the whole screen like it would when you adjust the screen setting, but I have tried both. I am going to pull this out for now and see if I can see anything out of place on the chassis and if nothing, maybe swap tubes.
 
Check the entire focus assembly, from the pin backward.

Just checked that, reflowed everything again. Swapped the tube, I don't think they were compatible, Had some image, all blue, but wasn't blurry, very dim, then blew F901. Replaced fuse, put old tube back in and still the same. What are the chances that focus assembly could be bad?
 
I was doing some more searching on this tonight and seen a few people saying that the blurry screen could be caused by a bad flyback. Would it hurt to stick the old flyback back in just to see what happens, it was still working when I took it out. I have hit just about everything with fresh solder, scoured the chassis and neck board for visual evidence of damage, and see nothing. Nothing left to do but start testing components. Also the tube could be taking a crap, but I have no way of testing that right now.
 
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