Stencilling a cab with latex?

Wolfinator

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Oil-based paints are getting harder to find around here...I'm not so sure about using latex to paint and stencil a cab.

Anyone done this? Any tips or comments you'd like to share would be appreciated!
 
I would never use latex for the stencils.
It tends to stretch too much while removing the stencil material leaving rough edges instead of crisp ones.
I believe you can spray the cab with acrylic and then use oil based in rattle cans for the stencils.
I would do a test piece first to confirm.
I take it oil based is not available in quart cans in your area.
I used Rustoelum oil based for my Multiwiliams amd then rattle cans for the stencils.
 
I would never use latex for the stencils.
It tends to stretch too much while removing the stencil material leaving rough edges instead of crisp ones.
I believe you can spray the cab with acrylic and then use oil based in rattle cans for the stencils.
I would do a test piece first to confirm.
I take it oil based is not available in quart cans in your area.
I used Rustoelum oil based for my Multiwiliams amd then rattle cans for the stencils.


We can get Rustoleum (Called Tremclad here) but the base colors are pretty limited. I may end up going the vinyl route, even though I'll get an earful from the purists!
 
Only part that is oil based is the primer, but the rest was all latex -- mustard, red, white, and black. Primer was an off white that I just used to seal the wood. Latex over oil is ok, but never the other way around.

You can see the entire progress here:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=75234

DSC02888.jpg
 
I've stenciled with latex, simply because that's how I was able to obtain the proper colors for my project. I would have preferred oil based but it worked OK. Don't attempt to spray too much in one pass to avoid drips and you should be fine.
 
For spraying I use Krylon's and wait 10-20 minutes between light coats, then let the stencil mask stay on for a few hours before removing lifting a little bit to ensure there is no tearing. I am sure Krylon is a plastic/latex type paint and it works great.

For the base Enamel is always nicer but Latex dries quicker. Test your base with what ever you spray as different brands can react.

For your base consider thinning and using a paint gun for the best results.

I also recommend a few days of good weather between stencil colours if using rattle cans.

Michael
 
I actually found all of the needed colors, except Joust brown, at Home Depot....so I guess I'm heading there today. I'm going to do Robotron first to gauge my results.
 
I prefer oil based (or automotive is even better) but have used latex several times. The key is to go with light coats so you don't put the paint on too thick. I let it dry for an hour or so before removing the stencils.

This was latex:

IMG_0654.jpg
 
Silver base, or light gray?

Use the codes on Gamestencils.com as they are accurate. This is a pewter luster. It's a two part process where you spray a grey base and then put on the silver metallic. Really good match to the original.

See the link in my signature for a walk through of the entire restore.
 
Silver base, or light gray?

You want "Pewter Luster", sold at Lowes. it's a 2 part system, where you buy a gallon of the base, which is a light grey, then a quart of the silver/metallic, which is applied over that. It's an awesome match for the original finish. That's actually a latex finish, but I'd recommend using Rustoleum oil based for the red and blue stencil layers.
 
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