Steering intermittent on Rush Extreme Racing

lohocla

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I searched the forums and found some other threads, but my issue seems different.

First a really small backstory. I just received the machine for free last Sunday before this, it was going to the dumpster otherwise(yeah.)
On first boot-up, I got an error message, I never owned an arcade but I knew it was a HDD error so I just bought a new drive off a site, for $35. When it came in machine fired right up but pic was blurry, dark and dominant red. I adjusted the red gain, perfect..finally found the focus and brightness knobs; right where you can barely see them let alone access them, picture damn near perfect, dark until it warms up a bit but excellent.
Plays and works perfectly all week and we made good money on it too. Today the steering is in and out during the game. It calibrates 1024 to both sides on startup, does not jitter at all in game or at any other time, and the feedback motor works great, when they both are working.
When I start a game, sometimes there will be no steering and it will kick in right past the fog on beginner stage. Sometimes it worked for 3 or 4 games straight, sometimes it didnt work the whole race but only a few turns maybe, sometimes it would still steer but the force feedback would cut out, and it was like playing pole position. I didnt test any voltage anywhere yet, as I couldn't find my multi-meter, and again, also fairly new at this. It's driving me to the nuthouse slowly all damn day. I'm ready to plan a scheme against Batman with The Riddler and Harley Quinn.
Any ideas?



Once I adjusted the monitor, accessed the the screen to clean the inch of dust and replace the aforementioned hard drive, it was, until today, an amazing working machine.

On the plus at least, the Shuffleshot I also got that day, works amazing and is really fun game to boot. Sucks they converted an MK2 cabinet for it, but fun nonetheless.
 
Likely the temp sensor is cutting out the force feedback, so that the board doesn't overheat. Check that the temp sensor is mounted correctly and you have a fan on the heatsink. If that's all good, then your motor may be drawing too much current and causing it to overheat.
 
OK thank you. I'll be at my shop in the next hour and I will inspect closer, those things you mentioned. Cheers mate
 
Came in this morning, fired it up and it played perfectly all day until about an hour ago. steering is in and out, and the machine reboots itself now every 15 minutes or so. Seems like it drops power after sitting on for awhile, or maybe like you said the temp sensor is getting hot and cutting out the steering, but now why the rebooting?
 
Sounds like there are connection problems or power problems. Check/clean the edge connector on the game board. Find your DVM and check the power.

Since your problems are intermittent, and effecting multiple systems (steering, force feedback, main board (rebooting)), it would not be related to the temp sensor on the force feedback board.

The other possibility, if the rear mounted fan is not working, you could be getting too hot in there.... but I don't think the mainboard would get hot enough to reboot. It would get hot enough to give you force feedback problems.

If you solve most of these problems, but have force feedback cut in and out, there is an overtemp warning LED on the force feedback board. I have one that cuts in and out. I don't know if the temp sensor / sensor circuit is "out of calibration", or old caps are causing extra heat on the chips that drive the force feedback motor.... haven't dug into it yet to find out.

IF your game is San Francisco Rush, you might want to consider the parts to upgrade the game to Rush The Rock. The parts are all the same, and it was a common upgrade to San Francisco Rush. My own Rush the Rock is a San Fran Rush that was upgraded.
 
may I interest you in the mecha essential PSU guide in my signature?

if your power supply was overdriven there's a chance the JAMMA edge could be burned. happens more on Vegas hardware, but it can do it on Seattle as well. regardless, I would clean it.

if the power supply is original be mindful it's like 20 years old. I would strongly encourage buying a new one.

Seattle hardware you should be able to get away with setting the power supply to 5.10-5.15V after cleaning the edge connector. never run your power supply too high, unless you enjoy failing ICs.
 
Wow thanks everyone for the excellent advice. I had to quick leave yesterday on an emergency but I was in today and the steering worked but the force feedback was cutting out for a few seconds here and there and no reboot.
This really seems like Power supply issue, based on my experience with other electronics, R/C cars, Pi's, LCD's project screens, etc. I think I am going to go with a power supply first and go from there. Can't hurt to have a new one anyway.

I do want to get the Rush Rock upgrade like you were saying cwilbar so might do that afterwards. The fan is working and I have the back board off now too. Is the force feedback board on the left hand side? with the big heatsink? I see some red lights everywhere, under the Jamma connector, and on the board to the left. I've alwyas known a red light to not be good, but these are my first real machines so I have no idea.

Thanks Mecha. I am going to read that for sure actually. Tomorrow I am going to tackle some things mentioned herein.
 
may I interest you in the mecha essential PSU guide in my signature?

if your power supply was overdriven there's a chance the JAMMA edge could be burned. happens more on Vegas hardware, but it can do it on Seattle as well. regardless, I would clean it.

if the power supply is original be mindful it's like 20 years old. I would strongly encourage buying a new one.

Seattle hardware you should be able to get away with setting the power supply to 5.10-5.15V after cleaning the edge connector. never run your power supply too high, unless you enjoy failing ICs.

Awesome guide!! I already made my wife aware that i might go in the shop on a Sunday lol. I can't wait to get my multi-meter on this sucker and see what's going on, especially now that I know I can test the Logic via the HDD molex. Thank you sir, that was an excellent read
 
got 11.18 and 5.18 at the 9 pin molex. at the Jamma connector I get 10.51 and 5.18.
at HDD I get 9.86 and 5.18.
+5 holding strong, the 12 volt loses 3/4 of a volt the further I get down. New power supply?
 
OK I will try that now. Thanks. Meanwhile I've been frantically searching for a power supply locally. lot of arcade guys in NEPA but none have what I need. I wish I didnt always crave instant gratification haha
 
got to second lap and reboot at 5.09 volt. the 12 volt was reading at only 9.51 at the HDD, if that matters.
 
Finally got a new power supply last night. It is made for Rush, and the machine powered right up and I got through a whole race and it worked better than ever. Was in back of my shop, heard it reboot on its own, and now the screen is a jumbled mess?!?!

This is beyond aggravating at this point. Anyone have any idea at all as to what's going on?
 
machine works good now but the pic on screen is staying scrambled, kinda like a ppv channel in the 80's and 90's.

It was picture perfect before today. I adjusted the focus on the flyback to no avail, and on the adjustment board behind the coin door.

So close to a working machine, and I had a picture just 30 minutes ago.
I entered Test mode to change it to $0.50 for one play and thats when it scrambled again and is staying so
 
now picture is perfect but reboots right after test screen

to recap I have installed
-new HDD from Arcade Services
-new PSU from an arcade service company on eBay, made for Rush.

I managed to get to the lap two and on the last jump it froze and rebooted. right before that the screen was flashing white lines in spots.

Sorry for all the posts, but I figure toss up whats happening, when it happens, and maybe this will help better diagnose whats happening with my machine.
 
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