started restoring my Neo Geo converted cabinet

Henners

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Well, last weekend the microswitch died in one of the HAPP Super sticks that came in my MVS cab.

I threw in a spare I have, but figured...hell. While I'm at it, I might as well start restoring the fuckin' thing eh?

And I happened to find ALL the keys, including the one to open the back. Monitor adjust FTW!

Not that it needs it, functionally it's great. So I ordered a new CPO, and a mini marquee, and some new buttons.

The new buttons were put in mostly because I couldn't believe how horribly it was wired together.

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Cold solder joints and what looks like...a paper clip used as ground. And mr stray quick disconnect, hi mr stray quick disconnect!

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much better!

The mini marquee came in today.

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before

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after

I'm not sure what to do with the bezel. Any ideas?

also thinking about replacing the flourecent light behind the marquee with a black light. anyone tried that?

And the front corner is broken off, what's a good product to fix it?
 
Yeah some games had move lists and stuff. I'd sort of like to keep things generic since I've built up a collection of MVS carts. Hence the changing of the Mini Marquee. What material are bezels usually made of?
 
Yeah some games had move lists and stuff. I'd sort of like to keep things generic since I've built up a collection of MVS carts. Hence the changing of the Mini Marquee. What material are bezels usually made of?

Monitor bezels are Lexan or Plexiglass or glass. Between Lexan/Plexi, I prefere Lexan. It costs more but holds up better (not a big deal since in your personal collection and not in the wild) and is easier to work with (IMHO). Plexi is more brittle than Lexan and thus more prone to cracking/breaking.
 
Yeah some games had move lists and stuff. I'd sort of like to keep things generic since I've built up a collection of MVS carts. Hence the changing of the Mini Marquee. What material are bezels usually made of?
The dedicated cabs have a tinted glass bezel with a black cardboard one underneath or at least that's what mine has.
 
Monitor bezels are Lexan or Plexiglass or glass. Between Lexan/Plexi, I prefere Lexan. It costs more but holds up better (not a big deal since in your personal collection and not in the wild) and is easier to work with (IMHO). Plexi is more brittle than Lexan and thus more prone to cracking/breaking.

this one is glass, but I'm going to replace it with plexi. It has rough cuts on the side, i adjusted it one day and it sliced the crap out of my hand. I'm talking about the cardboard underneath.
 
this one is glass, but I'm going to replace it with plexi. It has rough cuts on the side, i adjusted it one day and it sliced the crap out of my hand. I'm talking about the cardboard underneath.

This is what the original kits contained (at least a snapshot in time of the kit):

http://www.arcadeflyers.com/?page=flyer&db=videodb&id=5642&image=1

I have a single slot NG that looks like the conversion kit you have.

The "cardboard underneath" seems like poster board material.

The operator would have reused the old glass/plexi/lexan monitor bezel more than likely.
 
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I have a nos one of those cardboard bezzels that shows you where to cut it for differerant cabs on the back if you need it.
 
Neo Geo MVS restoration

I recently fixed up a dedicated 4 slot and recently got a Dynamo HS1 conveted to MVS also.

I personally hate the red paper bezels that are common in the kits. It draws too much attention away from the screen and makes my eyes bleed. My 4 slot was missing the paper bezel but since the glass is smoked you can barely see it. I recently got some 19" plastic bezels where i'm thinking to cut one to size for my Neo Geo. I would recommend something like this since you look to also have a Dynamo. Would need full body shots of the cab to confirm this.

Your Paper bezel may also sit on another board that may need to be cut or replaced also.

You can get 7watt mini florescent bulbs that fit in standard incandescent sockets. They're cheap too and last a long time. Bob's open 18" fixture is $11, bulbs $3 compared to HD $6. I've seen mini florescent bulbs for $3 each.
 
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the plexi is almost a quarter inch thick, it has holes from whatever it used to be. could I NOT use the plexi? this is the first machine I've owned, will the holes cause problems for the replacement overlay? The plexi is smoke stained and I'd like to remove it. If I could avoid replacing it with a thinner plexi without bondoing over the holes that'd be awesome.
 
the plexi is almost a quarter inch thick, it has holes from whatever it used to be. could I NOT use the plexi? this is the first machine I've owned, will the holes cause problems for the replacement overlay? The plexi is smoke stained and I'd like to remove it. If I could avoid replacing it with a thinner plexi without bondoing over the holes that'd be awesome.
Which Plexi? The monitor bezel or control panel? Which are you referring to? You don't bondo holes on plexi, you buy new plexi.
 
Looks like

Looks like your fishing pole was in the middle of falling over in that picture..
Judging by the blur Medium action on that one? :)

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the plexi is almost a quarter inch thick, it has holes from whatever it used to be. could I NOT use the plexi? this is the first machine I've owned, will the holes cause problems for the replacement overlay? The plexi is smoke stained and I'd like to remove it. If I could avoid replacing it with a thinner plexi without bondoing over the holes that'd be awesome.
 
Which Plexi? The monitor bezel or control panel? Which are you referring to? You don't bondo holes on plexi, you buy new plexi.

no no. Control Panel, i'm thinking abou buying new plexi instead of bondoing over the holes in the metal CP. Can I just put the overlay on without the plexi, will the holes effect it at all?
 
no no. Control Panel, i'm thinking abou buying new plexi instead of bondoing over the holes in the metal CP. Can I just put the overlay on without the plexi, will the holes effect it at all?
If I have a CP that has extra holes in it but I plan on using plexi on, I don't bother filling in the holes.

The only time you need to fill in holes is if you don't plan on using plexi. If you have extra holes with no plexi on the CP when you touch these areas they'll flex under pressure. With plexi on the CP you don't have this problem.
 
If I have a CP that has extra holes in it but I plan on using plexi on, I don't bother filling in the holes.

The only time you need to fill in holes is if you don't plan on using plexi. If you have extra holes with no plexi on the CP when you touch these areas they'll flex under pressure. With plexi on the CP you don't have this problem.

ah now the great debate...to plexi or to bondo...plexi seems easier...

also, what's the thinnest plexi you should use? the stuff here seems REALLY thick, messes up the throw on the arcade sticks a bit.
 
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As you seen in that other pic these bezzels were folded in half in the original pack.
 
ah now the great debate...to plexi or to bondo...plexi seems easier...

also, what's the thinnest plexi you should use? the stuff here seems REALLY thick, messes up the throw on the arcade sticks a bit.
The regular Plexi or Lexan they carry at Lowes and Home Depot is fine. You don't need the really thick stuff. I would go with the Lexan if this is your first time cutting or drilling this type of material. The Lexan is a lot more forgiving than Plexi is if you make a mistake.

appreciate it. Hmm. Is there another way you think I should go about replacing the bezel?
If you don't like the red bezel pull it out and spray paint it black. Problem solved.
 
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