Stargate.. :( Slingshot locked on.

Frax

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Well, replaced the fuse that was blown, now I know why it was blown. The second I started a game, the right sling coil locked on. :(

This will be pretty much the first REAL issue I've had to face (poor me, I know. WTF. How did I get away with those other two without any real issues I don't know..). I don't currently have a multimeter and I'm not going to be able to troubleshoot until I get back from vacation right before TPF. I also don't have a manual. Assuming the fuse isn't already blown, I'm going to pull it. The game is still fun to play without it, but I don't want to burn up the coil any more until I get a better chance to look at it.

F'in bummer. Any chance it's something simple and not going to require me to pull the PCBs? :p
 
I recall somthing about these non working slings in system 3 games in pinrepair guides about the slings..., check that if you can get to it, otherwise ill pull it from my archives tomorrow and send it to you. You probably took out the diode and/or the transistor on the driver board too...
 
Wasn't me, per se..

Turned it off soon as it activated and didn't retract, pulled the fuse, it's not blown, so I would hope that if anything died, it was the diode. I've got tons to spare, no big deal there. I can tell you it's definitely not the switches themselves on the sling. Neither one is making contact.
 
Usually when a solenoid or flashlamp is stuck on, the associated transistor on the driver board has shorted out permanently to ground. You may have gotten lucky in that the fuse blew before the coil burnt up.

If the transistor is indeed bad, you'll have to pull the board and replace the transistor (and possibly some associated parts). If the coil got cooked, you may have to replace that as well, and/or the nylon coil sleeve. This is a fairly common class of failure, and not a real big deal.

RussMyers
 
Also double check that one of the leaf switches that activate the slingshot has not been pinched shut, mis-wired, or something. Put the SG in Switch Test and make sure the sling switches are OK (test all of the games switches while you're at it.

RussMyers
 
Turned it off soon as it activated and didn't retract, pulled the fuse, it's not blown, so I would hope that if anything died, it was the diode. I've got tons to spare, no big deal there. I can tell you it's definitely not the switches themselves on the sling. Neither one is making contact.
Check that you can easily remove the coil sleeve. If not, get a new coil.

Also, check the obvious, that the playfield switch isn't closed.

The solenoid transistor is either Q3 or Q4 on the control board, depending if it's left or right. "12N10L or IRL530 or 20N10L or 22NE10L or IRL540. The 20N10L or 22NE10L or IRL540 are the best replacements, as they have higher drain current capabilities."


pinrepair said:
Testing Solenoid Driver 12N10L or IRL530 MosFETs.

The MosFETs used for the Solenoid/Flashers, Lamp Matrix Return lines and Lamp Matrix Strobe lines on the Gottlieb System3 driver board can be tested with a Digital Multimeter (DMM). This is similar to testing TIP Darlington transistors used in other pinball machines. Please keep in mind the same testing principles apply. That is, using a DMM to test a MosFET is only about 95% accurate. Sometimes a MosFET can test as "good", yet really be bad.

If I have the driver board out of a game, it only takes a moment to test a MosFET with a DMM. If I get any suspect readings, I replace the part. It saves work down the road.

Here is the testing procedure for the 12N10L/IRL530 MosFETs used for Solenoid/Flashlamps and Lamp Matrix return lines (Q1-Q32 and Q45-Q52). These are also used on the Auxiliary Driver Board.

• Game off and preferably the driver board removed from the game. If board still in game, remove connectors P5 and P6.
• Set your DMM to "diode" test function.
• On the component side of the board, put the black DMM test lead on the metal case (or center leg) of the MosFET in question.
• Put the red DMM test lead on the lower leg (leg nearest to the P5/P6/P7 connectors).
• A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen.
• Typically a bad MosFET will show .2 to .3; if this is the case, replace the MosFET.
• Next put the red DMM test lead on the upper leg (leg away from the P5/P6/P7 connectors).
• A reading null reading should be seen.
• Typically a bad MosFET will show .2 to .3 volts. If this is the case, replace the MosFET.
 
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Playfield switches work fine. I checked them out in edge test and seitch test last night. Neither was on and both activate and register just fine.

Never done a component replacment on pcb. Guess I need to learn but I really wouldve rather it been on Shuttle not this.

I can tell you some of them were already replaced previously. Saw it when I was seeling id the rope light was salvageable or not.

Also found a problem with the kickback mech (missing a screw or two and linkage getting snagged.) and the solenoid that controls the metal gate in front of it doesnt work.

Guess I did a poor job of checking this out but I still feel it will be worth it. I've really been enjoying it as is so once it is really fixed I think it will be a blast.
 
Nah, don't feel bad.

There are so many gadgets and do-dads on a pinball machine you can never check them all before buying.

The first month or two (or three) is always about tracking down and fixing all of the flaws.

It's part of pinball.

RussMyers
 
Nah, don't feel bad.

There are so many gadgets and do-dads on a pinball machine you can never check them all before buying.

The first month or two (or three) is always about tracking down and fixing all of the flaws.

It's part of pinball.

RussMyers
+1

Unless you're very familiar with the game, DMDs are a little more difficult to screen for troubled areas since many solenoids rely on modes to function.

Take out that driver board and test all the transistors and resistors. Swapping those out isn't that difficult and very rewarding. Swapping out 40-pin ICs is more delicate and a pain. I just finished chasing a problem on a System 80a CPU that lead me to replace a ton of chips. Ugh. But it plays great now!

Good luck!
 
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