Stargate G07 Monitor issue

Professorwiz

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Good Afternoon all!

I was having several issues with my G07 , the horizontal seemed to be out and couldn't get it adjusted. So I ordered a recap kit, and new pots for the unit.
During the wait I saw one listed on Facebook marketplace close to me with a cocktail style frame. So i went and picked that one up, When hooked up it worked fine! I was overjoyed.
Seeing this i followed along with a video of someone cleaning up a G07 tube and chassis on the original tube and chassis. G07 rebuild in real time
Instead of removing the frame, I tried using my existing tube (after waiting 24+ hours to make sure it's dry) and moved the boards over. When I connected them and turned it on, all I saw was the tube (?) flash a moment and go out, and the
fuse blew that is soldered to the board. I soldered a new fuze on the board, and moved it back to the original chassis but have nothing showing on the screen now. I assume that I somehow blew the flyback?
I don't think I did anything incorrectly. What could I have done that might have caused this, or is this a normal occurance?

Original photo of weird screen, and new monitor working attached
 
Oops. You took a working monitor and shorted something out.

Now we have to fix this.

Step 1: FIX your original chassis. Re-cap it.
 
Oops. You took a working monitor and shorted something out.

Now we have to fix this.

Step 1: FIX your original chassis. Re-cap it.
Was already in the works, the original chassis boards have had a hard life, with wires connect parts of the board that are cracked as well as an external fuse mod that appears to have went bad and looks pretty horrible. Hence why I was getting something working while I was waiting on the cap kit.
Perhaps some help, and advice on What could have shorted out.1000008919.jpg
 
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Was already in the works, the original chassis boards have had a hard life, with wires connect parts of the board that are cracked as well as an external fuse mod that appears to have went bad and looks pretty horrible. Hence why I was getting something working while I was waiting on the cap kit.
Perhaps some help, and advice on What could have shorted out.View attachment 834837
I'd love to help. Look at the bottom of the picture above the shiny top of the electrolytic.

You see that browned device - looks like a capacitor? Look it up on the schematic, and see what it is connected to. It appears that is what let the magic smoke out.
 
I'd love to help. Look at the bottom of the picture above the shiny top of the electrolytic.

You see that browned device - looks like a capacitor? Look it up on the schematic, and see what it is connected to. It appears that is what let the magic smoke out.
I'll check that one out, that board is actually the rough one I was trying to avoid using because of the sink problem. The one with the bite out of it. lol.
I will take a picture of the one that got damaged when I remove it tomorrow. It does look like something is leaking out of the top of the flyback, or it's just glue or something.
I do appreciate the help, first time I've tried doing this type of work.
 
I'll check that one out, that board is actually the rough one I was trying to avoid using because of the sink problem. The one with the bite out of it. lol.
I will take a picture of the one that got damaged when I remove it tomorrow. It does look like something is leaking out of the top of the flyback, or it's just glue or something.
I do appreciate the help, first time I've tried doing this type of work.
If it's leaking out of the top of the flyback, it's probably toast.

A cocktail chassis is usually for a smaller tube, at least in my experience. Of course, I've never had the chance to work on one, just my upright in my arcade, so I'm not sure.
 
If it's leaking out of the top of the flyback, it's probably toast.

A cocktail chassis is usually for a smaller tube, at least in my experience. Of course, I've never had the chance to work on one, just my upright in my arcade, so I'm not sure.
It's a 19" tube, same size as the one I tried on it, just different mounting scheme. Would make sense though. I'll take a picture and upload it.
 
It's a 19" tube, same size as the one I tried on it, just different mounting scheme. Would make sense though. I'll take a picture and upload it.
Sometimes just the change in tube impedance from one tube to the other can cause problems.

Did you have the ground attached to the DAG properly?

DAG - is the coating on the tube which allows it to conduct between the HV anode and the chassis.
 
24 hours isn't necessarily enough to get the water out. I dry chassies for 3 days with fans blowing on HIGH. The chassis you showed a picture of needs a full rebuild. Additionally it may need some
additional trouble-shooting if you shorted out components by powering it up with moisture on the board.
 
Sometimes just the change in tube impedance from one tube to the other can cause problems.

Did you have the ground attached to the DAG properly?

DAG - is the coating on the tube which allows it to conduct between the HV anode and the chassis.
I believe i did, the ground wire that connects to the neck board?
I completely blew off the unit with compressed air on a low setting, then put it near a dehumidifier. But yeah probably should have waited longer.
The chassis in the picture is the one I was going to do a total rebuild on, just really wanted to try the game out and figured buying a monitor to use while I redid the other was the ticket..
 

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I believe i did, the ground wire that connects to the neck board?
I completely blew off the unit with compressed air on a low setting, then put it near a dehumidifier. But yeah probably should have waited longer.
The chassis in the picture is the one I was going to do a total rebuild on, just really wanted to try the game out and figured buying a monitor to use while I redid the other was the ticket..
That flyback doesn't look bad to me. That looks like the glue that was originally applied, with some slop. Not unusual.

No, the ground lead on the neck board is NOT the DAG ground. The DAG ground will either be a spring like thing attached to the chassis, and touching the DAG (kind of gray painted, but flat color, hard to see) coating around the tube, or something from the metal which holds the CRT screen in place which connects to the DAG ground.
 
I've washed many monitor chassis over the years. I have them running again within about 25 minutes. the secret is not washing the neckboard, cause that water will persist in the socket despite all efforts of applying heat or air. it's never damaged anything in my experience, just the focus will be a little bizarro while it burns the water off for... maybe about 25 minutes, yes.

I also always take the flyback off. you do you, though.
 
I've washed many monitor chassis over the years. I have them running again within about 25 minutes. the secret is not washing the neckboard, cause that water will persist in the socket despite all efforts of applying heat or air. it's never damaged anything in my experience, just the focus will be a little bizarro while it burns the water off for... maybe about 25 minutes, yes.

I also always take the flyback off. you do you, though.
The video I watched, showed to not get the neck board wet because the socket would have issues, so I was extremely careful not to get that wet. Video said to just wipe the neck board off with Alcohol.

That's a great idea to take the flyback off, I'll have to give it a go next time.

Still working on figuring out what the DAG ground is, didn't get a chance to mess with it last night when I got home from work. I might have time tomorrow morning hopefully. LOL I thought it would be simple after fixing the power supply, I thought to myself, aww this isn't so bad.. lol what a fool I was.
 
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