Star Wars WG6100 blown flyback.

Marc_NJ

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Just picked up a Star Wars upright, with no video (sound is not so good either..)

Ordered and received Bob Roberts deluxe kit for the WG6100. Started the install, and when I got to the high voltage section found a nasty looking FlyBack.

See Photos...

2 questions: I see there are replacements available, but what is the best option?

And, why would this have happened in the first place? Is there something else I should be checking/replacing before blowing up a new transformer?

I may get impatient and take the WG6100 out of my Tempest just to play Star Wars! :)
 

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Or get it from the guy who created it, so he gets a little return on his investment:

www.cinelabs.com

By the way, the arcadeshop are the Cinelabs flybacks so that's fine too.

Cinelabs says to buy it from a distributer like arcadeshop. It sounds like your dissing arcadecup since he was the other place listed? What's the deal? Not defending arcadecup, just wondering what your not saying?
 
Did it just die of "old age"? Or did something else cause it...

I don't want to spend the $$ on a new one, only to burn it out again!
 
Did it just die of "old age"? Or did something else cause it...

I don't want to spend the $$ on a new one, only to burn it out again!

My guess is that the bad parts went up in smoke with it. :) Your replacing all the chassis mount transistors and whatnot anyway right with that deluxe kit? You should be able to rebuild it. Get an LV2000 for it too to help keep the LV section from dying and taking out components.

-VJ
 
My guess is that the bad parts went up in smoke with it. :) Your replacing all the chassis mount transistors and whatnot anyway right with that deluxe kit? You should be able to rebuild it. Get an LV2000 for it too to help keep the LV section from dying and taking out components.

-VJ

I did lots of reading on this LV2000, and got myself even move confused. I read more about people stealing designs from each other than what it actually fixes! One of the things I read said it was not necessary.. What does it fix?!

Also; My main board has a "daughter board" of sorts already attached to it. Don't know if this is factory or not. It does not look like the pictures I have seen online of the LV2000, but maybe it is an older version of it?? (no SMD components).
 

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I did lots of reading on this LV2000, and got myself even move confused. I read more about people stealing designs from each other than what it actually fixes! One of the things I read said it was not necessary.. What does it fix?!

Also; My main board has a "daughter board" of sorts already attached to it. Don't know if this is factory or not. It does not look like the pictures I have seen online of the LV2000, but maybe it is an older version of it?? (no SMD components).

That board is the Input Protection Circuit (IPC) that WG patched on to earlier revisions of the deflection board. It is supposed to help protect from bad signal levels from the game board.

The LV2000 is nice in that it will shutdown the voltage to the circuit if there is a problem. That way it will stop working and not fry more components. If you look at most deflection boards, the Low Voltage circuit has had fried components at one point in time and there is almost always burn marks on the PCB from this. Here is a picture of my deflection board post LV2000 install. Note the black burn mark to the top right...

IMG_0233.jpg


Edit: You can see that mine has an IPC board in this shot..

IMG_0250.jpg


Edit: I should add that the Low Voltage section went out on my 6100 along with a couple of other elements. The people truly in the know will tell you to put some protection on the board. Regardless of the bickering about LV2000 vs. LV6100.... Put one of them on there. :)
 
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Also; My main board has a "daughter board" of sorts already attached to it. Don't know if this is factory or not. It does not look like the pictures I have seen online of the LV2000, but maybe it is an older version of it?? (no SMD components).

That's atari's input protection board... it was added onto later P314s, and was built into the circuitry of the P327...

I find it to be relatively useless...
 
Also, since you turn down the voltage, the monitor should run slightly cooler as well.

Absolutely untrue... the power dissipation about is the same, regardless of where the "+/-28V" is set... if you turn them down, you're just dissipating more of the power in the pass transistors attached to the regulators, rather than in the deflection transistors...

P=IV in either case... V's set by the AC input... I's set by the how much the beam needs to be deflected...
 
Absolutely untrue... the power dissipation about is the same, regardless of where the "+/-28V" is set... if you turn them down, you're just dissipating more of the power in the pass transistors attached to the regulators, rather than in the deflection transistors...

P=IV in either case... V's set by the AC input... I's set by the how much the beam needs to be deflected...

Care to comment on his question or just pick apart my post?
 
I noticed there is a large power transistor mounted to the high voltage chassis.. But, that part did not come in Bob's kit. Is it a reliable part?? Or is it something I should replace considering the condition of the transformer?

Also, ordered the fly back today... Got one of those big blue capacitors for the power supply too. Maybe that will fix the "gargle" noise on the "red five standing by" when I power it up.. If not, I will have more work to do on the game boards after this monitor is finally working... That is another thread for a later date! :)

Still tempted to "borrow" the monitor from Tempest to play some star wars! Good thing I will be busy most of the weekend with other stuff, so I wont have time to break a working game.
 
I noticed there is a large power transistor mounted to the high voltage chassis.. But, that part did not come in Bob's kit. Is it a reliable part?? Or is it something I should replace considering the condition of the transformer?

Also, ordered the fly back today... Got one of those big blue capacitors for the power supply too. Maybe that will fix the "gargle" noise on the "red five standing by" when I power it up.. If not, I will have more work to do on the game boards after this monitor is finally working... That is another thread for a later date! :)

Still tempted to "borrow" the monitor from Tempest to play some star wars! Good thing I will be busy most of the weekend with other stuff, so I wont have time to break a working game.

You can easily test any transistor with a multi-meter in diode mode. Read page 61/62 of the 6100 faq.

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/tech/6100_faq.pdf

Just check to see what type of transistor it is so you know what results you should see with the meter.

-VJ
 
Cinelabs says to buy it from a distributer like arcadeshop. It sounds like your dissing arcadecup since he was the other place listed? What's the deal? Not defending arcadecup, just wondering what your not saying?

I think the situation about Arcadecup has been discussed elsewhere on this forum, there's no need to dig it up _again_ here.
 
I have Bob's kit installed, and the new transformer installed... No video. :(

Out of frustration, I pulled my working monitor out of Tempest and put it in Star Wars. We have video!! (Controls dont work so good.. but... not important right now).

I swapped the main board between monitors, and my new "rebuilt" board works fine in the tempest monitor.

So, I have something wrong with the picture tube, high voltage cage, or neck board.. Any ideas where to start looking? I guess I can swap some more parts around, but was trying to avoid messing with the HV... I still am looking for a probe to set the 19.5KV
 
Moved the good HV Cage to the broken monitor.. It has video now (scrambled looking, but that does not seem relevant)... So, looks like I have a problem in the HV Cage..
 
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