Star Wars WG 6100 wird problem

Belike36

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I just bought a SW upright from Archer Mclean and it has some monitor issues.
The right 3rd of the monitor is dead, sometimes there are some light vectors, but most of the time there is nothing could be seen.
SW_2__c.jpg

It is not a gameboard related problem, I tried it out with another pcb, nothing changed.
I can make some more pics or video if needed.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
I just bought a SW upright from Archer Mclean and it has some monitor issues.
The right 3rd of the monitor is dead, sometimes there are some light vectors, but most of the time there is nothing could be seen.
It is not a gameboard related problem, I tried it out with another pcb, nothing changed.
I can make some more pics or video if needed.
Any help would be appreciated.

Need to see test mode, on the criss-cross grid to see whats going on please :)
 
Thanks for your help in advance.:)
I made these pics in dark, the lines are not so thick, just my hands were shaky.
During the main theme, the are some light letters could be seen on that area.
 

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There are 3 rubber wedges and some convergence strips also.
In the meantime a realized, that there was a LV 2000 kit also installed.
Atari%2520vector%2520015.jpg


Atari%2520vector%2520011.jpg

In test mode, that criss-croos grid is flickering sometimes on the right side and the visible area is changing.
Thanks.:)
Bela
 
My suggestion (requires convergence later, so at your own risk), is to rotate the yoke 180 degrees and see if the problem moves to the left

This will rule out the tube and narrow it down
 
I agree with dezbaz, mark the yoke's current position, then loosen it and spin it 180 degrees. If the problem remains in the same place, you've got a tube problem.

I saw a problem like this once on a raster monitor - the phosphor mask was damaged, causing a chunk of the image to be missing from the picture.

PRAY your issue isn't tube related. It's not easy to find a replacement tube for a 6100.
 
Don't think it's the phosphor. The diamond screen shows the right edge like a sinus-wave, but on the red hash-screen it's a straight line.
Must say this is the weirdest thing I've seen so far.

Béla, you can always exchange both chassis between the cabs....if the problem moves with the chassis it is a chassis problem.

But I agree with the others it might be the yoke... you could try moving it a bit to see what happens...
 
Ok, thanks to all for your help.:)
I'm scared to death from doing this, but I will try my best.:)
I will keep you informed.
 
Just curious what will happen when you grab the red X-side connector (P700?) and wiggle it when power is on?
 
This won't necessarily fix your issue. I am just curious to see if it has any effect on the image. The connector is just above the fuse marked F700 towards the middle of the Deflection board on the LH side. You could also say it is the 3rd red connector above the LV-2000. With the monitor on, just pinch the red connector with the 6 wires in it and gently push back and forth on it and watch the image at the same time.

If nothing happens, you should then try rotating the yoke. With the power off, loosen the yellow screw thing at the back of the yoke and VERY GENTLY try to rotate the yoke 180 degrees. Try not to knock the rubber wedges loose from the tube. They are usually glued in place but sometimes they are loose. The area where the yellow screw clamp squeezes the yoke tends to stick to the tape that has been wrapped around the neck of the tube. I have found that if you take a very small flat tip jewelers screwdriver and VERY GENTLY pry up on the back end of the white plastic "fingers" where the clamp was squeezing, you can get the yoke to release from the tape. It isn't taped down, it is just molded to the tape. When I say pry up, I am talking about 1/16th of an inch. If one of the "fingers" doesn't move, move on to the next one. If and when you get the yoke rotated, tighten the clamp again and test the image to see what you get.
 
Thanks for this nice and very detailed description, I really appreciate it.:)
I will take a day off from work tomorrow to take care of this.:)
 
I tried to wiggle that plug first, nothing happened.
Switched off the machine, disconnected that plug, cleaned the F700 fuse under it and when I turned it on again, there was just a vertical thin green line in the middle of the monitor for 10 sec, than nothing.:(
The game plays, but totally blind.
At this point I swapped the deflection board from my 2nd SW and it worked perfect, so it seems like the tube and yoke are ok, there is something with the deflection pcb.
I checked all the fuses (they were all ok) and tried the faulty pcb in the other SW, it indicated the same problem, thin green line for 10 sec, than nothing.
I measured the caps, they are also ok.
Any further ideas?
Thanks in advance.:)
 
I tried to wiggle that plug first, nothing happened.
Switched off the machine, disconnected that plug, cleaned the F700 fuse under it and when I turned it on again, there was just a vertical thin green line in the middle of the monitor for 10 sec, than nothing.:(
The game plays, but totally blind.
At this point I swapped the deflection board from my 2nd SW and it worked perfect, so it seems like the tube and yoke are ok, there is something with the deflection pcb.
I checked all the fuses (they were all ok) and tried the faulty pcb in the other SW, it indicated the same problem, thin green line for 10 sec, than nothing.
I measured the caps, they are also ok.
Any further ideas?
Thanks in advance.:)

Great, it's a deflection board problem, nice work :)
Time to check the MPSU07's and MPSU57's (do Q703 and Q704 first) using a Digital Multi Meter

You will need to de-solder at least 2 of the legs of the transistors to test properly (Resistors in the circuit will muck up the reading)

Ask for help if not sure how .. . .
All the best
 
Thanks a lot for the tip Dez.:)
I have a multimeter and a soldering/desoldering station (with some skills), but a detailed tutorial from the method would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Bela
 
I had one that was doing almost exactly the same thing. I did some troubleshooting for a bit but couldn't figure it out so I ended up buying the Bob Roberts deluxe rebuild kit and installed everything. That fixed it....still no idea what the problem was but I hit more targets with a shotgun. :)
 
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