Star Wars vector monitor

luke9511

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Hey everyone, can anyone confirm this is the amplifone monitor from Star Wars? My buddy got one and it needs a cap kit and I think a fly back, is there any place to get a new fly back?
 

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I was about to come in with a canned response about how usually WG6100s don't need flybacks but yowza, looks like you need a new flyback on that. And a LV2K. Someone has clearly "worked" on this in the past and has done some hacks you should probably investigate and undo.

APAR for cap kit and flyback. Arcadeshop for LV2K.
 
I was about to come in with a canned response about how usually WG6100s don't need flybacks but yowza, looks like you need a new flyback on that. And a LV2K. Someone has clearly "worked" on this in the past and has done some hacks you should probably investigate and undo.

APAR for cap kit and flyback. Arcadeshop for LV2K.
yeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one place
 
are you sure? cause it looks nothing like the 6100 i worked on many moons ago
It's definitely a later revision K6100 that someone did some weird shit too (doubled up caps and tent pole resistors).

yeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one place
Nothing wrong with the one on APAR at all. Honestly I like it a little better because it's discrete components, but it's more expensive and you assemble it yourself. (Which shouldn't be a problem, it's very simple.)

I miss the ones @Charles Kline used to sell. I liked those :) ᵐᵃᵏᵉ ᵐᵒʳᵉ ᵖˡᵉᵃˢᵉ
 
It's definitely a later revision K6100 that someone did some weird shit too (doubled up caps and tent pole resistors).


Nothing wrong with the one on APAR at all. Honestly I like it a little better because it's discrete components, but it's more expensive and you assemble it yourself. (Which shouldn't be a problem, it's very simple.)

I miss the ones @Charles Kline used to sell. I liked those :) ᵐᵃᵏᵉ ᵐᵒʳᵉ ᵖˡᵉᵃˢᵉ
They have one that comes assembled, also anyone know what these should be replaced with? Any other issues anyone sees I might be missing?
 

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yeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one place
APAR shows out of stock? I would look around and find one with thru hole components vs. SMT

I got mine from @Charles Kline ...

Dylan

PS... i see I got beat to the punch!

D
 
If you read the FAQ, R907 was upgraded to 3R9 3W. As was R901.
Trust the text BOM and not the figure. :sneaky:

I suggest the OP download and study both the REV3 manual for the K6100 and the FAQ.


Also don't buy electronics from AS. Especially anything power related with SMT devices. LOL
 
If you read the FAQ, R907 was upgraded to 3R9 3W.
Trust the text BOM and not the figure. :sneaky:

I suggest the OP download and study both the REV3 manual for the K6100 and the FAQ.
Yup I was just looking at the FAQ 😅 I have multiple copies each of the Rev 1 and Rev 2 manuals, but none of the Rev 3. Need to grab one of those at some point.

For OP: WG6100 FAQ
 
okay before i send my buddy an email this should be everything right? or am i missing something?




 
Yup, that's what a bad flyback looks like in one of these. It's not common, but when they go, you'll see clear melt marks in the side. (Often they'll have a nickel-sized hole melted into the side, lower down). But when you're rebuilding these, if it isn't melted, you can generally always keep the old one.

And you can use either 2.2 or 3.9 ohms for those two power resistors. You just want them both to be the same. Yes, the FAQ and later version of the Atari docs say 3.9. But I've experimented with both, and either will work.

They're on the power inputs to the cage, so they drop the incoming LV power. But if you're using an LV6100 (which runs the LV at +/-24V instead of the original factory 28V), it's already running at lower power, so running the 2.2 ohm resistors somewhat offsets that.
 
Yup, that's what a bad flyback looks like in one of these. It's not common, but when they go, you'll see clear melt marks in the side. (Often they'll have a nickel-sized hole melted into the side, lower down). But when you're rebuilding these, if it isn't melted, you can generally always keep the old one.

And you can use either 2.2 or 3.9 ohms for those two power resistors. You just want them both to be the same. Yes, the FAQ and later version of the Atari docs say 3.9. But I've experimented with both, and either will work.

They're on the power inputs to the cage, so they drop the incoming LV power. But if you're using an LV6100 (which runs the LV at +/-24V instead of the original factory 28V), it's already running at lower power, so running the 2.2 ohm resistors somewhat offsets that.
which is preferred, the LV6100 or LV2000? or does it matter? I'm having a deja vu moment here but if you answered before I don't remember now.
 
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