Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
yeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one placeI was about to come in with a canned response about how usually WG6100s don't need flybacks but yowza, looks like you need a new flyback on that. And a LV2K. Someone has clearly "worked" on this in the past and has done some hacks you should probably investigate and undo.
APAR for cap kit and flyback. Arcadeshop for LV2K.
It's definitely a later revision K6100 that someone did some weird shit too (doubled up caps and tent pole resistors).are you sure? cause it looks nothing like the 6100 i worked on many moons ago
Nothing wrong with the one on APAR at all. Honestly I like it a little better because it's discrete components, but it's more expensive and you assemble it yourself. (Which shouldn't be a problem, it's very simple.)yeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one place
They have one that comes assembled, also anyone know what these should be replaced with? Any other issues anyone sees I might be missing?It's definitely a later revision K6100 that someone did some weird shit too (doubled up caps and tent pole resistors).
Nothing wrong with the one on APAR at all. Honestly I like it a little better because it's discrete components, but it's more expensive and you assemble it yourself. (Which shouldn't be a problem, it's very simple.)
I miss the ones @Charles Kline used to sell. I liked thoseᵐᵃᵏᵉ ᵐᵒʳᵉ ᵖˡᵉᵃˢᵉ
APAR shows out of stock? I would look around and find one with thru hole components vs. SMTyeah i havent worked on a 6100 in over a decade now, is there something wrong with the lv2k style from arcade parts and repair? cause my buddy will probably just grab everything from one place
They're out of stock.They have one that comes assembled,
From the manual:also anyone know what these should be replaced with? Any other issues any sees I might be missing?

That is a 2.2 ohm 2watt?
Yup I was just looking at the FAQIf you read the FAQ, R907 was upgraded to 3R9 3W.
Trust the text BOM and not the figure.
I suggest the OP download and study both the REV3 manual for the K6100 and the FAQ.
Search "R907" on APAR. Peter's site is very well indexed.Does arcade parts and repair carry that part?
That one still has SMT components.Got it thanks and this should be good yes? https://vector-repair.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50
Not sure what that is, I bought an og lv2000 back in like 2010 so it's been a long while lol
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
which is preferred, the LV6100 or LV2000? or does it matter? I'm having a deja vu moment here but if you answered before I don't remember now.Yup, that's what a bad flyback looks like in one of these. It's not common, but when they go, you'll see clear melt marks in the side. (Often they'll have a nickel-sized hole melted into the side, lower down). But when you're rebuilding these, if it isn't melted, you can generally always keep the old one.
And you can use either 2.2 or 3.9 ohms for those two power resistors. You just want them both to be the same. Yes, the FAQ and later version of the Atari docs say 3.9. But I've experimented with both, and either will work.
They're on the power inputs to the cage, so they drop the incoming LV power. But if you're using an LV6100 (which runs the LV at +/-24V instead of the original factory 28V), it's already running at lower power, so running the 2.2 ohm resistors somewhat offsets that.