Star wars vector - Jumpy graphics / tie fighters have lines

Darren,

No Matrix errors, and voltages to main PCB seem good (although i am getting 11.5 at a 12 volt test point on the AVG board - hoping thats ok). I am going to look more into the PCB and try and isolate a short.

More information - so i ran through the tests again. The BLIP test - says to align the boxes - a hah - there are no boxes! Also, i see now that when left on for a minute on that screen, spot killer comes on and game resets.

Also, during the game, had a reset or two - getting a bit more bold now and leaving it on longer and seeing the reset.

I am in touch with ArcRevival and plan to send him the deflection board for full review. I am grateful for his service.

Hopefully, the problem is on the deflection board, and he sees that. More to follow on this one.
 
Also Darren - on other boards, like the trench - red is the theme. The Red vectors originate from the center of the screen -
 
That is 5.04.

Ii knew it was good from earlier checks, but just in case after i saw your note Level42 i checked again - the +5 lead in the back of the board.

Well, now, her condition has worsened. The game continually resets. I think the watchdog may be kicking in?

I only manage to get to the self test / beeps and tones - whereas before i was registering 16 high beeps, i get 15 high / 16th low. And, of course, 16th tone relates to Vector chip. I suspect there is a slew of vector chips blown.

I tried the logic probe, but first time on this, i think this is going to be beyond my expertise. I also tried the Randy Fromm IC / Diode test, but that gives too many misleading readings on the chip, so forget that one.

I guess i HAVE to get this board looked at. I sent an email to Dick M, and hopefully he gets back to me.

Just in case, is there anyone else on here that have experience with / willing to take on my boards (i pay of course!).

Thanks.
 
The only PCB problems I had so far was two times a bad Vector Ram.

Both times I had garbled vectors (but not like yours) during the gameply. The second time it only did the attract and then crashed.

I bought replacements and it works fine now.

Swap the indicated bad RAM to another position and hear of the low beep "moves" to that position....then you know if it really is a bad RAM.

I bought replacements from arcadechips.com IIRC.

(I think the original were Toshiba's....check if yours are Toshiba's too....might be an indication....)
 
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Level - do you mean swap it with RAM from the same board (from the AVG vector board, take any RAM chip and switch it provided its the same chip model?)

Lets say it is that RAM chip - why was the test mode not picking it up sooner? Does a chip wear down, and maybe, that chip was on its last legs and finally bombed out now, where the tests picked it up? Or could it be that i had a bad chip not being picked up, and this causes issues on others (a chain reaction?)

Also, is the resetting caused likely by the watchdog? is the dogz purpose to monitor health of Some or all of the chips, and if one is found to be stuck short, to reset the game?
 
By the way - this write up, from Clay Cowgill of Beeps / related chips is helpful. I dont think this is in the Atari Manual:

1) RAM 2F/H on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the CPU)
2) RAM 5F on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the Matrix processor)
3) RAM 5H on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the Matrix processor)
4) RAM 3L on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM) ***
5) RAM 3M on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
6) RAM 4P on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
7) RAM 4L on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
8) RAM 4M on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
9) RAM 4P on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
10) NOVRAM 1E on the CPU board (a 2212 Xicor 256x4 NOVRAM)
11) EPROM 1F or 1M on the CPU board +++
12) EPROM 1 J/K on the CPU board
13) EPROM 1 K/L on the CPU board
14) EPROM 1F or 1M on the CPU board +++
15) EPROM 1 H/J on the CPU board (The daughtercard for ESB)
16) EPROM 1 L on the AVG board ***


Maybe - i will swap 16 with a similar chip as suggested by Level 42.
 
Hi Level 42,

I see what you mean by the Arcade Shop replacement - i just ordered that. Good lead on that, and to answer my earlier question - i couldnt swap that with anything else i have since its a one of a kind.

What i could swap, after i put the AVG replacement in - is the set of 4 137211-001. I have other boards that have those chips so i can use them provided they are socketed. Its generic 2128 RAM, so i can score those.

So, need to wait a few days to get the 1L AVG chip in, and will start swapping. I believe that will get me around the watchdog and other issues (back to seeing the screen / game staying on and possibly not resetting). BUT, i think that the drawing issue (posted in the video) will remain.

For that, before i start shotgunning chips, maybe i will see if someone within 100 miles has an SW i can try out (to make sure its board related). I am in Mamaroneck NY.
 
Level,

Entered the test mode / No video. That was the last set of posts - the condition changed to the point where the spot killer is always on.

Listened for beeps / boops. 16 tones total - 16th tone - gives me a boop. That is why i ran off with the AVG chip (at 1L) as the issue.

Makes sense - according to the manual, screen wont show up with bad 1L chip (Avg Chip).

I did misread you, i was just all amped up from finding what i think is the problem. Will report back as this progresses.

Thanks.
 
Similar failures on mine...did I miss a definitive location to order new ones of these?

RAM 4P(AVG) - Vector RAM 5
&
EPROM 1L (AVG) - Vector ROM, has writing on it "SW 105".
 
Voltron - so you are getting boops at (on of the 4-9 tone tests) and at 16? Sounds similar to my issue (i only low boop at 16 though).

For any chip 4-9 (AVG 2128 RAM) - one thing i would do - is swap a compatible chip from another slot that is not causing a boop with the bad one, and see if the boop tone changes to the new slot. For example, 4 - 9 locations (which represent the 3L, 3M, 4P, 4L and 4M slots, all having 2128 ICs (Atari RAM chip 137211-001)) - swap the noted bad one with a good one and see if the boop changes. I am interested in that result, it tells us if the diagnostic system is accurate (i never trust those things).

If it is, the 2128 chip is easily replaceable - i had spare old PCB that had a few of them on it that could be swapped in, or they can be ordered.

Now, the 16th tone - location 1L - that is a chip no longer made (proprietary to the game or Atari vectors i think?). A couple of good people remake the chip - i found that Clay Cowgill had an AVG replacement, Arcadeshop was selling them (by way of a guy named Omar) and retro clinic (Mark) had made them (http://www.retroclinic.com/leopardcats/gatearray/gatearray.htm).

I contacted them all - and found they are all sold out!

Fortunately i found one and waiting. During my search i did find one other good person remaking them - www.elektronforge.com (Alex). So if the diagnostics are to be trusted, and you need that chip, theres the lead.

Before you order - check those chips / reseat them / just make sure theres not a bad connection.

Let us know if replacing the chips makes it work again. I am waiting to see as well.
 
Ok - posting closure. So i had the boards looked at for a couple of reasons -

bad caps
these vector issues
Clay Cowgill kit installed, want it removed and new ROMS needed to be burned in place.

I used Bills video service - quick turnaround and very reasonable. He removed the Clay kit, which was the issue - at least one of the chips (ROMS) were bad. A new SW set installed (Bill burns them on site), and she works. Sound caps replaced too.

Got the board back yesterday, and works perfectly. Sad outcome though, not sure sure which chip causes the grief as they were shotgunned (to remove the full clay kit).
 
star wars

Go back to that deflection board. Since that is definitely what you touched prior to this happening. Are there pots on an ampliphone ?? I have a 6100 in the star wars I got up and running. You may have touched one by accident. Otherwise, I would try to lower the flyback brightness a hair to see if this clears up. I agree with all in the group. If the brightness is too high, you will damage that tube for eternity and you will get these lines forever. You can't fix that. The phosphor burns a hole an you will see clear glass there.
 
Hey John - problem was found - related to the chip set. Had them replaced, and running great now.

Fortunately, the monitor boards are not the issue.

Oh, and the upright will be for sale soon - getting a Cockpit!
 
John, where theres a will theres a way. Somewhere next to the Spy hunter cockpit, the Twilight zone pin awaiting restoration and the elevator action i just got (in addition to the stuff you saw last time you were over!). Trust me - it will fit.

You are certainly stopping over in the late spring...
 
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