Star Wars Upright Arcade Monitor and Board - Help Needed!

Thanks. Ok I'll look at better caps. I mainly use nichicon but that Jackson one may have been one I already had, I do remember testing the capacitance and the time but like you say best to replace.

Don't suppose you have a BOM for the caps with part numbers and I'll just get those.
 
Here's a quick list. All numbers are Digikey:

493-4816-1-ND (33uF 160V)
493-1609-ND (220uF 50V, x2)
493-4775-1-ND (10uF 350V)
P13148-ND (47uF 63V)
10-ECA-1JHG220BCT-ND (22uF 63V)


Also, in your pic of the HV cage, is it just the picture, or is the top of C901 slightly bulged (compared to C902 next to it)?
 
There you go. That's likely the source of the noise.

I don't know if that's an 85 degree cap, or what the hour rating is. It might just be the basic 2000-hour one. But a better cap will fix that. The ones I listed above are also physically larger, which helps with heat. (Also, they are 220uF, which is an upgrade that is mentioned in the 6100 FAQ.)

Also, if you look at how I rebuild these cages, I mount the large power resistors on the underside of the board, so they are no longer right next to those caps. You can sorta see it here (though I only show the top of the board. But you can see a little bit of R907 under the board.) :


Replace those caps, and you should be good to go. Also, if you have a spare 100uF handy, you can replace just that one for now, and it'll likely fix the noise. If you don't want to wait to get the new caps, just as a quick test. It won't hurt anything to replace just that one.
 
Last edited:
There you go. That's likely the source of the noise.

I don't know if that's an 85 degree cap, or what the hour rating is. It might just be the basic 2000-hour one. But a better cap will fix that. The ones I listed above are also physically larger, which helps with heat. (Also, they are 220uF, which is an upgrade that is mentioned in the 6100 FAQ.)

Also, if you look at how I rebuild these cages, I mount the large power resistors on the underside of the board, so they are no longer right next to those caps. You can sorta see it here (though I only show the top of the board. But you can see a little bit of R907 under the board.) :


Replace those caps, and you should be good to go. Also, if you have a spare 100uF handy, you can replace just that one for now, and it'll likely fix the noise. If you don't want to wait to get the new caps, just as a quick test. It won't hurt anything to replace just that one.
Thanks! Just ordering from Digikey now!
 
I don't like the stuff inside the red circle in this photo. Looks like corrosion. Corrosion = resistance.

1750966115641.png
 
I don't like the stuff inside the red circle in this photo. Looks like corrosion. Corrosion = resistance.

View attachment 829291

If you didn't have me blocked (because you don't like me commenting when the information you post is incorrect), you would see that the problem has been found.

Also, that stuff is not corrosion. It's just some thermal grease on the screw, from someone using too much when they installed the transistor. However because there are two screws on that transistor, even if it were causing a bad connection (which it isn't), there's still contact to the transistor case through the other screw.
 
There you go. That's likely the source of the noise.

I don't know if that's an 85 degree cap, or what the hour rating is. It might just be the basic 2000-hour one. But a better cap will fix that. The ones I listed above are also physically larger, which helps with heat. (Also, they are 220uF, which is an upgrade that is mentioned in the 6100 FAQ.)

Also, if you look at how I rebuild these cages, I mount the large power resistors on the underside of the board, so they are no longer right next to those caps. You can sorta see it here (though I only show the top of the board. But you can see a little bit of R907 under the board.) :


Replace those caps, and you should be good to go. Also, if you have a spare 100uF handy, you can replace just that one for now, and it'll likely fix the noise. If you don't want to wait to get the new caps, just as a quick test. It won't hurt anything to replace just that one.

Replaced the caps on the HV board today and it's playing as good as new, thank you! If you're ever in the UK Il buy you a pint!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7467.jpeg
    IMG_7467.jpeg
    225 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_7469.jpeg
    IMG_7469.jpeg
    415.9 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_7470.jpeg
    IMG_7470.jpeg
    322.5 KB · Views: 8
Replaced the caps on the HV board today and it's playing as good as new, thank you! If you're ever in the UK Il buy you a pint!
Congrats on the fix!

And I know it's just focus and persistence of (vision) image, but that last pic looks like an Arcade 1Up LCD screen. :p
 
You don't have to be so mean.

Ask me how I know what one of those looks like...

I actually have 2 of them that I got for ~$300 (and happily spent that, too, to be completely honest). What's even better is that due to scarcity, they're now going for $650-700, which will help offset the acquisition cost of my cockpit (and repairs).

I'm just waiting to finish my cockpit cab rebuild so I can take a picture of the two side-by-side for LOLs. Gonna do the same thing with the wife's Ms. PAC-MANs.
 
Back
Top Bottom