Star Wars Upright Arcade Monitor and Board - Help Needed!

Couple of pics from the scope reading
Ch1 - X-Axis, 2v, 100usec - connected to XOUT
Ch2 - Y-Axis, 2v, 100usec - connected to YOUT

When self test switch is on, there's a square and when I press the button on the service panel it does look like it's scrolling through different diag screens:

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When it's in normal mode (test switch off), there's an image bouncing about but can't make anything out:

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I'm wondering if I connect it to the monitor and see if there's a picture
 
I would connect
That to the monitor and see. If it's really screwy vectors. Shut it off. But 10-20 seconds will be fine
Digital scopes are hard to tell what's actually going on sometimes
 
So I connected it up and get the following from the normal game and in the self test mode. There's also no sound at all.

When I checked B+ from the neckboard I was only getting a reading of 99VDC which is way lower than it should be. I tried adjusting the Pot on the HV board and the voltage wasn't changing at all.


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Looks like two separate problems, game board and monitor. I know nothing about wg6100's. But I did find this. I would start at the red arrow and check q900, q901, q902, q903

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The bad crosshatch screen is the most helpful of these (to me)
If all the FPGA Tester timings are now correct - I would look at the LS194 vector data shifters or vector RAM.

Vector RAM can test good, but actually be bad. Juggle them around a bit and see if it changes.
You should also be able to adjust your scope to see the crosshatch and not run that on your monitor for the short term..
 
So I worked through the flow chart:

Is there 180V on pin 5 of P900? No, I was reading 100V

C901 and C902 are brand new 100uF 50V caps.

Check for a leaky C905 - not sure how to do this to be honest, but it was a brand new cap.

Check or replace Q900, Q901, Q902, Q903:
- Q900 - BU409 - tested and ok
- Q901 - MPSA06 - replaced with new from kit
- Q902 - MPSA06 - replaced with new from kit
- Q903 - 2N3904 - replaced with new from kit

Re-checked for 180V on pin 5 of P900 and still reading 100V

Double checked Q900, Q901, Q902, Q903 - All ok.

No burnt resistors
- R903 - replaced with new from kit
- R904 - tested and ok (470 ohm 1/2 watt)
- R905 - tested and ok (560 ohm 1/2 watt)
- R906 - tested and ok (6.8k 1/2 watt)
- R907 - replaced with new from kit

Replaced ZD902 with new from kit

After all that there was no change and still reading 100V from pin 5 of P900.

SO! What is strange when checking for shorts on the transistors to the chassis, I noticed that was getting a short / continuity reading when testing Q900 which is the BU409 transistor on the front of the HV Cage. There was no short on any other transistor, so when I took the cage out I noticed a small plastic washer that was lodged in another component. From checking back to my original pictures I could see that this should be sitting on the inside of the HV cage to stop the screw and nut from making contact with the cage!

I removed the screw, put the plastic washer in place and then tightened it back up and when checking found the short had gone.

I then powered up and.....nothing, no picture at all (whereas there had been when the transistor was shorting) and the voltage on P900 pin 5 is now reading near nothing (-0.5mV), the spot killer is off, the LV2000 lights are both on and there's chatter but just nothing coming through. I thought I might have damaged the BU409, but tested it and it seemed fine, but replaced it with a spare anyway and having the same issue.

It's got to be right that the plastic washer insulates Q900 right? Any thoughts on next steps?
 

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xy bip/ size adjustments look totally out of whack. Start with the simple stuff. Looks pretty close to me.
 
Managed to get the picture back, but it's still really out of whack, I've tried adjusting the pots on the Star Wars board but can't seem to get it legible or aligned properly. Anything else I'm missing?
 
Frequently in these cases it's a bad DAC. Or you might have an issue in the digital section before them. But socketing and swapping out the DACs one at a time might be your next step.
 
Managed to get the picture back, but it's still really out of whack, I've tried adjusting the pots on the Star Wars board but can't seem to get it legible or aligned properly. Anything else I'm missing?
It's also common for those pots to go bad to add to the complications. :)
 
Just looking around to see if I could get some more pots. Looks like they're 10kohm, 2kohm, 200ohm pots.
Uploaded a pic showing the kind of mess with the text and added a video showing the screens going through the test screens showing how wonky everything is.


Any other thoughts on things to check?

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