Star Wars Trilogy Question

starfighter2

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am looking to get a star wars trilogy(one of my all-time most favorite games), but someone I trust has told me that there are allot of issues keeping this game running. I looked around on the site and found some issues but nothing that I would not expect on other games?

can anyone that has owned this game give me an idea if these are hard to maintain and keep running and what kind of issues you have seen with this game.

Also, looking to but if someone has one...
 
The deluxe sitdown versions have CRT projection monitors that are infamous for breaking in difficult or impossible to repair ways. I don't have details, but I'd guess they have a flyback or some other specialty-made part that's flaky and downright impossible to source.

If it's an upright unit with a direct-view CRT, or a conversion, you should be golden. The game itself runs on a Model 3 variant that has a reputation for being rock solid, if a little touchy when it comes to voltages.
 
The deluxe sitdown versions have CRT projection monitors that are infamous for breaking in difficult or impossible to repair ways. I don't have details, but I'd guess they have a flyback or some other specialty-made part that's flaky and downright impossible to source.

If it's an upright unit with a direct-view CRT, or a conversion, you should be golden. The game itself runs on a Model 3 variant that has a reputation for being rock solid, if a little touchy when it comes to voltages.

I forgot about the deluxe model. Stay with the standard (with Namco seat, if you can find one) and you should be golden.
 
yea, the one I want is the stand up modle (standard) with white bottom sides. I don't want the DX modle. I want one just like this:
Star_Wars_Trilogy_Arcade-machine.jpg
.
 
I've had mine for I think around 4 years now and it's never had a problem. Out of the 20+ games I have it's still my favorite but my boys rarely let me play. So even after finally owning my own I'm still waiting in line like I had to in the arcades years ago. I too have the standard upright but I was luckily able to turn it into a sitdown model by finding the Namco seat add-on which includes speakers in the headrest along with a subwoofer directly under the seat. It adds a whole new experience when you feel the rumble of Darth Vader's voice between your cheeks.


SWjack.jpg




I believe there are 4 commonly seen versions of the Star Wars Trilogy Arcade:

The standard upright model. (no sub woofer/no force feedback stick)

cabinet3.jpg


The upright model with Namco seat. (with sub woofer) This is like mine.

swatnamcoseat.jpg


The deluxe sit down in a black cab with 50" screen and lights in the seat. (with sub and force feedback stick)

swcab.jpg


The deluxe sit down with a bench seat using a 3 part conversion cab in white. (50" screen, control panel, bench seat with sub)

cabinet2.jpg
 
Great game, want one myself. There was one on CL about 2 months ago I think. They only wanted like $200 for it (deluxe sit down version) Should have bought it. Anyway, good luck with your search and keep checking CL they pop up from time to time.
 
The upright model with Namco seat. (with sub woofer) This is like mine.
[/IMG]

That seat is cool!

Where did you find that?

Does anyone know where to get one?

The game is awesome, but I have a problem with 2 eeproms coming up as bad in the self-test, though as far as I know it still works 100%. I even went as far as ordering 2 new eeproms from Sega, but they didn't fix the problem.

I know an electronic/computer engineer and programmer who fixes arcades, casino games, multitouch, etc., and he specializes in pcb boards. He told me that there is a manufacturing flaw in this line of Sega pcb boards. Something about if they're moved a bunch, or if the boards get "bumped" hard and enough during the move, that the chips or sockets can break loose from solder points and lose connection, even if you can't tell from the naked eye. He's been in the repair business for over 20 years, and he now refuses to work on any Sega machines with that model board. He says he's seen it too many times, and it can't be fixed. The board must be replaced.

He knows what he's talking about, so I do believe him (he didn't even want to mess with mine). But, Sega is clueless about it (of course they would be, it opens up a huge headache for them if they acknowledge it), and I haven't found anyone else with the issue on the internet. But again, he knows what he's talking about (used to design pcb boards), and he's trustworthy (you wouldn't doubt him if you knew him).

So...head's up!

Run it thru a self-test BEFORE you purchase. I couldn't do that with mine, because the self-test button was broken at the time, and I was a couple of hundred miles from home. But, I got a great deal, it plays fine, and I love it!
 
I know an electronic/computer engineer and programmer who fixes arcades, casino games, multitouch, etc., and he specializes in pcb boards. He told me that there is a manufacturing flaw in this line of Sega pcb boards. Something about if they're moved a bunch, or if the boards get "bumped" hard and enough during the move, that the chips or sockets can break loose from solder points and lose connection, even if you can't tell from the naked eye. He's been in the repair business for over 20 years, and he now refuses to work on any Sega machines with that model board. He says he's seen it too many times, and it can't be fixed. The board must be replaced.

What!? Unless it's a BGA variant, it can ALWAYS be reflowed. And BGAs generally don't break traces with mechanical stress. Also, BGAs can sometimes still be reflowed. Ask him EXACTLY which IC does it.
 
I asked him and he said that he saw it with different chips on the 3 different boards. When I talked to him about mine, he said because of my 2 eeprom errors, there are chips that have the same IC locations on the top and middle boards, and that I could try re-flowing them. But, in the middle of his sentence after he said re-flow, he stopped himself and said if it's playing fine, which it is as far as I can tell, then don't touch it. He said it's too much of a headache to track down, because the problem can't easily been seen, if it can be seen at all.

Like I said, I believe him because I know that he knows what he's talking about.

Oh, and he said it "can" be fixed, but it's not worth the headache for HIM to do. He'd just replace the board(s) instead.

Sorry, my previous post was misleading when I said it "can't" be fixed.
 
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