Star Wars repair

It sounds like chips 1-3 are OK
4 & 5 are testing bad
and the rest are OK.

What do you have on the screen in test mode?
Need to look at the manuals to correlate these numbers with actual chips/locations.
 
No monitor, going by ear and scope XY. On the scope a little dot dodges left and right up and down. So no video.
 
It sounds like chips 1-3 are OK
4 & 5 are testing bad
and the rest are OK.

What do you have on the screen in test mode?
Need to look at the manuals to correlate these numbers with actual chips/locations.

I agree
4 is 3L on the AVG board -Vector RAM0
5 is 3M on the AVG board - Vector RAM1
The RAM chip is a 2016 RAM 2016,5116 or 6116 are all compatible
3L, 3M, 3P, 4L, 4M and 4P should all be the same so try swapping 3L and 3M with 3P, 4L and see if the BOOP's sound in the test mode moves to 6 and 7.
Or if you have known good RAM chips just replace them.
It's always possible something else is bad causing a false reading in the diagnostic but replacing the RAM is a good place to start.
 
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Those don't even look like Ram chips. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing. They look like Rom chips.
The chips are NEC 4016C's that are in there now.
 
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Is there a reason on this particular AR2 v02, that it's blowing F4 and F5 fuses on the transformer, and trying to cook CR4 on the AR2? Is it possible to have a bad transformer? I've tried swapping with another AR2 and it doesn't blow the F4 and F5 or cook the CR4, but the volume isn't there, as in the video I uploaded.
After rebuilding the transformer and using tested good rebuilt AR2's it's leading me to believe the drop damage on the head of the power brick may be too severe.
IMG_1057.jpg

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Those don't even look like Ram chips. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong thing. They look like Rom chips.
The chips are NEC 4016C's that are in there now.


Size isn't everything you know....RAMs are not always in small DIP housings, these happen to be in larger one's.

4016=2016=5116, order a couple from arcade chips.com, put them in the indicated bad spots and hear (and maybe see) the miracle happen....
 
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Hope so indeed. I pulled the AR2 out as others had critiqued the audio or lack thereof. I put another one in. I compared the wiring to Tempest's wiring of the AR2. You know it is possible to reverse wire the 6 pin harness inputs. That was in fact the case apparently. I'm now getting good loud beeps and 4, 5 and 6 lows now. Wierd thing was I was getting good voltages.
However, to fully test the AR2 board in question. I put it in Tempest.
After doing so, I heard a humm, then a pop. I powered off. Put the original Tempest AR2 back in and the screen came up to inform me there's a problem with my Tempest Mathbox.
And here I thought I had AR2 boards all figured out...I'm almost afraid to shotgun it and test it if it's going to give me results like that.
I don't understand how an AR2 board can take out a component on the mathbox. And secondly you'd think after hearing a pop - you'd see some damage. Some kind of indicator of what's wrong.
So now I have a Star Wars AND a Tempest down.
 
Ok so update:
The sound is now 100% and I was getting 3 boops. Don1400 being the great guy he is, sent me a few (4) extra 2016's. I replaced 3L, 3M and 3P. That brought Star Wars to life on my scope.
So now it was time to take and hook up the WG K6100 (the one with the burned hole in it) that had been repaired and refurbished. After seeing the monitor come to life as well as the PCB stack I was almost ready to jump for joy but it was tempered by odd looking wierd text with the high scores. Second, for some reason the attract mode stays constantly on the high scores screen. When blue fades, it instantly comes right back again. I know there are 3 screen sequences in attract. The Star Wars and story fade off, the high scores and the 'how to play' and starfield moving to the left.
I am uploading a youtube video of the attract and the screen as we speak. I'll update this when it's done. But for now all I have is a still image.
Any ideas? Is this something to do with placing a WGK6100 monitor in place of an Amplifone?

IMG_1421.jpg
 
Well I'll take more pix of the test screens but there's alot of gibberish. Unfortunately I don't have the yoke plugged in. I am attempting to garner powder coating material for it. (Oven and powder). So no yoke - I can coin the game with shorting coin on the test lead, but I don't think there is a start lead to short.
It does coin when shorted and Obi says his thing. But I can't find an option to start the game without a yoke plugged in. :p

What does the test screens look like?
Will it coin up and play a game?
 
You can select seeing the hi score table or the story by steering left or right during attract mode.

Since there is no yoke connected the PCB set will "see" 0 ohms at its pots and thus either a full left or full right steering (I am not sure which) and thus it will constantly trigger the hi score screen.

You first have to bring back the size of the screen,it is way too big. You must be able to see four blue dots in each corner and they should be about half an inch from the tube corner.

It looks like you only have a problem with the vectors on the bottom half on the screen...
 
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Yea I am going to have to get that display corrector from arcadeshop. Last night I adjusted the screen down. I also found the correct combination on the yoke harness to trigger.
It coins up, force will be with you, then trigger, red 5 standing by. It autoselects, and it played a game. All music and sound seems good.
But yea I noticed most everything at the bottom of the screen was all jaggy.
 
I swapped out the AVG chip and replaced with a known working one from Space Duel. No influence. Although I did tend to get the Star Wars logo and fadeoff then it went to the sidescroll and instructions. Probably just a fluke. But I put the old AVG back in and it never went to anything other than the high scores. Just odd.
Anyhow the main problem remains the scribbly jagginess towards the bottom of the screen. I may just go ahead and post up another youtube of the game sequence.
I tried another main Star Wars board, but that is in worse shape. It never even got past all LED's lit. Tried diag switch, nothing. Found a missing cap on it at C94. Replaced the 4.7uf35v with 4.7uf50v. No influence. Ah well. If I end up shipping the boardset off for repair I may just send that one Main along too, to have for a spare.
But I'm pretty sure the culprit of the jaggy graphics is on the AVG board somewhere. Unfortunately I don't have a spare working AVG board to prove that out.
 
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