Star wars playing blind

Malice95

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So I picked up a star wars this evening.. Previous owner told me the 6100
went out and it has the spotkiller led on.

Before I spend a bunch of time/money troubleshooting the 6100..

Anyone know how I can confirm its the 6100? I dont have an osclliscope (sp?)
but I do have a nice digital MM.

Any X/Y output test points I should be checking out? Is there any way to
really confirm its the 6100 and not the board without an Osclliscope?

Thanks,
Malice95
 
Well, you can check the voltage (AC and DC) at the X-OUT and Y-OUT tabs of the board, to see if you have any voltage swing. But really, without a scope or another monitor, you won't know for sure. You can check the fuses and voltages at the 6100. You should have a B+ of 180vdc and the +/-28vdc present. If you're missing either, or the B+ is way off, it would light the spotkiller...
 
Hi Malice95,

It funny how things tend to happen at the same time. I'm trying to revive a Star Wars as well, but it's an Amplifone instead of a Wells. It's interesting to know that they seem to require generally the same voltages - +/-24 and then 180 at the B+.

I'll keep an eye on this thread so if there's anything I can provide to help that I can post it.

Blaine
 
You could check the X and Y signal with an AC meter in the harness. Should be seeing a volt or so.

Are you hearing any deflection chatter? If so, I usually will pull the connector for either the X or Y output transistors to check which set is working, to at least narrow it down.

If the spot killer is on, then there are a few things to check fairly quickly on the 6100.. Verify you have +28 and -28 on the pcb. You can check it on the headers of the regulator transistors..its the 6 pin connector nearest the left closest corner of the board. If your voltages are good, check all the frame mounted transistors.

Good luck!

Andrew
 
If the monitor has not been bulletproofed (like if you don't see an LV2000 on it) then the odds are really good that it's the monitor. And even if it's not the monitor, you will want to bulletproof it anyway. Order the full rebuild kit from Bob Roberts and an LV2000 and just get it done. You won't regret it and it's likely to fix whatever issues you have as well.
 
Yea I am ordering an LV2000 from Mark S. and a 6ft 6100 extension. I'm going to try plugging it into my tempest first to make sure it isnt the boards.

If it turns out to be the monitor (most likely) I'll pickup the fullblown rebuild kit from Bob.

Is worth the $79 to pickup a replacement flyback from Arcadeshop or are they
pretty rock solid in the 6100's?

Malice
 
I've only ever seen one bad 6100 flyback, and it was obvious (cracked)....
 
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