Star Wars Owners...need your help/opinion on front art.

[Jedidentist]

The CPO is tanner/yellower than the pic looks..definitely more along the "coppery" color line. I'm going to go with the painted black carriage bolts. It's funny because this is all a pretty stupid discussion anyway. My kids nor my wife even care about any of this stuff, and the few people that come over could care less. But we're not in this hobby for them, right?

 

[joeycuda]

Keep in mind the built games often didn't look just like the flyer.

 

[mrbill2084]

I'll never call Darin's work crappy...because it isn't. All the details are spot on and the quality is great. There's also a slight sheen to the silver that my original artwork also possesses...which was my first concern in buying the repro. As someone else brought up, I'm such a nit-picker that if I replace the front art, I would also end up doing the CP as well...and I really don't want to bother with that. There's also more of a chance to botch it up as well.

And as for Darin's offer to refund...that's mighty gracious of you. However, like I said, I bought this second hand from another member local to me, so I'd obviously have him pursue the refund and then have him refund me. I'm not in a big hurry...just wanted to see what everyone's opinion is. However, looking at that flyer, it looks like my art is pretty much spot on, so I'm more inclined to leave it be. Now I have to decide whether to go carriage bolts, or fill it and paint it black (I wouldn't attempt to paint the design...that would only look like a bad fix).

I did not mean to say darins work is crap either. I have seen some of his work and it looks good. Using the original films is about as close as your going to get to original. But paints have changed since the 80's (No lead), so there is going to be some difference.

What I should have said, is sticking reproduction art on your game is crap. People treat it as a repair option. It should be a last resort. I see it as destroying your game.. Some people might not care, but it would bug me more that it was not original.

 

[docfrankie]

if it were me i would not use bolts
i would use bondo to fill holes and color black
and then in a month or 2 later try to make it blend in .
your a dentist man you can do it
it is much easier than doing what we do for a living.
come on we can color match teeth even if it is like even not see by other eyes.

 

[Jedidentist]

if it were me i would not use bolts
i would use bondo to fill holes and color black
and then in a month or 2 later try to make it blend in .
your a dentist man you can do it
it is much easier than doing what we do for a living.
come on we can color match teeth even if it is like even not see by other eyes.

I'm a pediatric dentist...it's all A1 or A2 I can easily Bondo it and color match...but I don't feel like making 5 trips to Home Depot! What's tricky is the slightly metallic color and that it's textured. I'm not saying that I can't do it, but that carriage bolting it might look more "normal"? The other way will look like a "fix" no matter how good it is. Again, not a damn person that will ever play this game will notice this. My point of this thread was more to see if anyone had silvery artwork, and I have yet to hear that anyone does...so I'd rather leave it. It would be a great replacement if mine was trashed, but this machine is in pretty damn nice shape for an original.

 

[GameyMcGame]

+1 for bondo and paint. I generally just do wood filler and paint though, much more forgiving and with holes like that, it really doesnt matter, dont need the strength of bondo...

You could also cut out the section (probably the size of a silver dollar) from the new art and place it over the bondo filled holes. Then at least you'll have your sheen...

But honestly, leave it...Other than collectors like us, people wouldnt even notice if they spelled wars wrong on the CPO...

 

[m_mcgovern]

Use car bumper hole covers. That is what was on the upright that I had. It didn't look too bad...almost fit into the art scheme. You can see it to the right of the lower door lock.

 

[Alpha1]

this Atari Ireland SW has a grey front.

 

[Alpha1]

This is another Atari Ireland machine. Which was HUO that I picked up.

This is grey also.

I would imagine there are multiple revisions of the sideart likely with colour variations.

 

[Jedidentist]

Interesting. So it seems like the repro side art out there is from the films used for the flyer and the front art uses the paint codes from the Ireland/UK versions? I figured there was something like this out there...just hadn't heard/seen it. As Darin stated, he used the paint color as indicated on the Atari films, so it must have been the UK/Ireland version?

 

[Alpha1]

Interesting. So it seems like the repro side art out there is from the films used for the flyer and the front art uses the paint codes from the Ireland/UK versions? I figured there was something like this out there...just hadn't heard/seen it. As Darin stated, he used the paint color as indicated on the Atari films, so it must have been the UK/Ireland version?

I guess we cannot confirm if the grey art was for Irish SW machines only. I guess the best we can estimate at the moment is that the artwork with the tie fighter inside the border is from the pilot/proto machines and that generally there were variations in the artwork of many Atari games - including differences in the colour spectrums.

Oliver

 

[Alpha1]

Sorry for the sideways pic.


Here's another I had a few years ago. You can see it's a grey front too. Also an Irish built one.

 

[Alpha1]

This US based auction Starwars has a grey front:

http://cgi.ebay.com/STAR-WARS-UPRIG...881?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ade51ce89


So it must just be a revision thing.

Oliver

 

[AlkalineJay]

I personally like that color. I think it fits the game better. Mine doesnt really need it, but let me know if you decide to sell that piece, I just may take it off your hands!

 

[Jedidentist]

Well, I pulled my game from the lineup just to look at it and finally put in my rear door (it came with the wrong door, so I had to cut the top groove in it and I added some HUGE vent holes as some people say it can get hot back there):

As I was looking at the side art, I compared it to the repro front art and the greys match. I didn't take any photos, but they match. Obviously, there's enough proof out there that both front artworks are correct, so to each his own. I decided to pick up 4 carriage bolts, painted them and installed them:

I definitely like it better than the empty holes. Not convinced enough that I'm going to get rid of the repro artwork yet, but I'm about 90% sure that I'm going to keep it this way. Now I just have to decide if I'm going to replace the T-molding...which seems flatter than the repro stuff out there

 

[m_mcgovern]

the carriage bolts definitely look better than the holes. If you are very anal about it, you could always try painting the heads of the carriage bolts to match the artwork that is missing due to the holes....sort of making the bolts blend into the artwork. Just a thought.

 

[DanoND]

Now I just have to decide if I'm going to replace the T-molding...which seems flatter than the repro stuff out there

The molding is different. Mine has original molding which has a few nicks in it here and there, I haven't decided to replace it yet due to the difference. The new stuff looks cheaper imo.

 

[Jedidentist]

The molding is different. Mine has original molding which has a few nicks in it here and there, I haven't decided to replace it yet due to the difference. The new stuff looks cheaper imo.

I agree...and it's flatter. I was going to see if they whomever did that run of Nintendo flat T-molding could look into doing this.

 

[Madaracs]

If the art isn't going to match the shades in the control panel or other areas, personally I'd stick with the original art and add bolts. To me it's not uncommon to see those bolts anyway and that part of the cab doesn't attract a lot of attention anyway.

Nice Star Wars cab, btw.

 

[qbass187]

I definitely like it better than the empty holes. Not convinced enough that I'm going to get rid of the repro artwork yet, but I'm about 90% sure that I'm going to keep it this way. Now I just have to decide if I'm going to replace the T-molding...which seems flatter than the repro stuff out there

Honestly Derek,
I like it with the black bolts. it looks cool.
At least they match top to bottom, mine has bolt holes too, I may do the same thing.