Star Wars non responsive

You machines wiring harness should have pins & connectors that correspond with the power bricks hookup. If they don't match up exactly, you have found your issue.
 
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Here are some pictures of a Star Wars XY Brick from the Bottom.
If yours has a different Big Blue it has been rebuilt at one time or another.
And maybe one of the wires was moved by accident to the wrong spot. Your
wire colors/placement should match exactly to the ones shown here.
 

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If you have a pin in position 15 on the brick ( no pins present in position 10 & 14) more than likely it is out of an asteroids.
 
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Atari also made Battlezone, Red Baron and Asteroids Dlx which are black and white monitor XY games. Their bricks are similar but not exact replacements for the color xy bricks.
 
I just dont get it though..WTF, did someone come into my gameroom and swap out the power brick???!!!!

And why am I now getting what looks like a deflection issue?
 

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Atari also made Battlezone, Red Baron and Asteroids Dlx which are black and white monitor XY games. Their bricks are similar but not exact replacements for the color xy bricks.

Wrong.

B&W bricks are almost identical to raster bricks... it's the color vectors (and 40VAC 805-801 bricks) that are different.
 
Ok. After searching for significance on the audio test, I found this...

http://maws.mameworld.info/maws/driverinfo/starwars.c

It lists the audio beeps as meaning this:

1) RAM 2F/H on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the CPU)
2) RAM 5F on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the Matrix processor)
3) RAM 5H on the CPU board (a 2Kx8 for the Matrix processor)
4) RAM 3L on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM) ***
5) RAM 3M on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
6) RAM 4P on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
7) RAM 4L on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
8) RAM 4M on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
9) RAM 4P on the AVG board (a 2Kx8 for vector RAM)
10) NOVRAM 1E on the CPU board (a 2212 Xicor 256x4 NOVRAM)
11) EPROM 1F or 1M on the CPU board +++
12) EPROM 1 J/K on the CPU board
13) EPROM 1 K/L on the CPU board
14) EPROM 1F or 1M on the CPU board +++
15) EPROM 1 H/J on the CPU board (The daughtercard for ESB)
16) EPROM 1 L on the AVG board ***


I was getting 16 beeps. I pulled EPROM 1L, reseated it and now I get 15 beeps and one 'boop'.

Bad eprom?
 
you said in your OTHER thread :rolleyes: that you were getting 10 beeps. If the 16 is now failing, pull it out and check that you put it in right and didn't bend a leg...
 
Yeah, it was 16. I thought it was about 10. In counting though, it was 16.

A red herring though I think. I blew (I think) the RAM in 16 by putting it in backwards so now I get 15 beeps and one boop at 16.

In double checking the voltages on the AVG board, I realized I'm not getting +12...

With the beeping and booping aside, I'm sure thats a big part of the problem? (besides operatr error of course! :) )
 
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You've asked the wrong question.

You're already giving your time to me. (In posts like that, in posts harassing my WTB post etc)

If you're going to spend time, be constructive or go away. Surprising I know since most just tell you to go away.
 
You know, you are being pretty hard to help. For one, you keep jumping around and the symptoms keep changing - first it's dead, now it plays blind, now it fails the self test - and you interpret things wrong... Did you like, read the manual? You do realize that it's *supposed* to beep 16 times in the hardware test, right?

You also created two different threads relating to the same machine, and make it as confusing as possible for us to follow. It was pretty clear that you had a monitor problem, but now you've blown up a chip and have a board problem too.

Start at the bottom and work your way up. Make sure that your AR-II is outputting the right voltages. Replace the chip you fried. Then move on the monitor. Did you ever check the voltages at the LV power supply like I asked?

You know, we're trying to help - don't get mad at us for posting things that you don't want to check.

-Ian
 
You know, you are being pretty hard to help.

Start at the bottom and work your way up. Make sure that your AR-II is outputting the right voltages.

See post #2 :rolleyes:

I can understand the OPS frustration. Let me be the first to say - who the hell knows why you're power supply "might" have crapped out. Man made bound to fail and there's not an audible alarm stating "T minus 10 seconds and before self destruction." They go bad end of story.

Check your damn +5 rail off the ARII board and report back what you find.

If your +5 checks out ok - pull the AVG chip out of the working board set and swap it with this one.
 
One second Ian, who did I get mad at? Mark maybe, but he didnt make a single helpful suggestion, unless I missed it...Well, he did spam a WTB post stating that my power brick was not the issue...

As for your suggestion, I replied asking how to do that...I appreciate all the help, I'm just not very technical.

When it was playing blind, I posted here not knowing what are the issue was in...When it started to sound like it was a monitor issue, I posted over there as well...

I'll go back and check the power on the ARII and the board again. I'm not trying to be difficult guys, I appologize if its coming across as such.
 
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