Star Wars Cockpit

Mr Do

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Donor 6 years: 2012-2013, 2015-2016, 2019, 2025
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Just got this cockpit and wanted to check voltages before connecting monitor and pcb.
I have +5.1 and -6.5 and 12 and 24 volts.
I know the aud/reg has to be rebuilt, but can I try the game with these voltages?

Also, I was expecting 120v to the monitor, but the 3 prong connector has 50v? Yet that is what it looks to be on the schematics, I don't understand.
 
Just got this cockpit and wanted to check voltages before connecting monitor and pcb.
I have +5.1 and -6.5 and 12 and 24 volts.
I know the aud/reg has to be rebuilt, but can I try the game with these voltages?

Also, I was expecting 120v to the monitor, but the 3 prong connector has 50v? Yet that is what it looks to be on the schematics, I don't understand.

On this diagram HERE on P10 (on the Audio reg) there is supposed to be +22V, -22V, +12V & -5V

Dokert made a harness used for testing most of the voltages, and I recall it had load resistors to ensure correct voltages were tested. I did buy one if the values are needed.

On the power supply brick, the 50V CT (centre tapped) is correct.
See here
 
Well that all depends on where you took the voltages measurements and how you took them, if voltages going to the board are low you'll be fine, if they are high you very well could damage the board.

As for the monitor, it's a vector monitor not a Raster, so the voltage requirements are different.


Just got this cockpit and wanted to check voltages before connecting monitor and pcb.
I have +5.1 and -6.5 and 12 and 24 volts.
I know the aud/reg has to be rebuilt, but can I try the game with these voltages?

Also, I was expecting 120v to the monitor, but the 3 prong connector has 50v? Yet that is what it looks to be on the schematics, I don't understand.
 
Just got this cockpit and wanted to check voltages before connecting monitor and pcb.
I have +5.1 and -6.5 and 12 and 24 volts.
I know the aud/reg has to be rebuilt, but can I try the game with these voltages?

Also, I was expecting 120v to the monitor, but the 3 prong connector has 50v? Yet that is what it looks to be on the schematics, I don't understand.

Congrats - Pics please!!!
 
I measured harness gnd and 5 volt -5,12,22.
All alittle high. But with harness off edge connector.
Volts would decrease once I connect on pcb itself.
 
Sorry. Harness at pcb with harness off edge connector is where I took measurements.
 
OK, well the -5 is off to much, it's regulated so it should be close to -5 replace Q9 on the Ar board. IIRC the -5 is for the audio delay circuit. Feeds a tl082. Which will be able to handle the -6.5 might cause some sound issues, but with the -22 missing you are going to have sound problems already.

24 for the 22 is good, it's not regulated, but you seem to be missing the -22

I would go ahead and measure the voltages on the ar board to double check.

But yeah, the AR is going to need a going through.

So you should be ok to plug it in and see if it will work. I don't see any major issues. Other than whats already mentioned.
 
Star Wars problems.

Checked voltages with harness' on edge connectors of pcb and all voltages on pcb were good.
Turned on game without monitor and played blind.

Connected monitor and game showed graphics messed up.

But I don't remember if the problem occured after or before I changed it to free play.
I should switch it back to coin up.

Also, the monitor shroud for 19" is the wrong one. Where do I get the cardboard fitting?
 

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The Star Wars Cockpit came with a 25" Amplifone Monitor originally.
If yours has been converted to fit the 19" K6100, you would need to create
your own bezel or use one out of a Tempest or Space Duel.
I cannot tell which monitor you have from the pictures.
The ram errors are pretty straight forward between the manual and the screen
you should be able to fix that quickly.
 
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Adjustments

6 rams replaced.
Even put a arcadeshop AVG in.
Needed alot of x y adjusting and even more.
Or is it something else?
 

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adjustments

more pics of cockpit graphics
 

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Also....it looks like your monitor brackets need to be flipped. For the 19" monitors, the brackets are flipped to push the wooden mounter mount and the 19" monitor closer to the player. In that scenario, any regular Atari 19" cardboard bezel will be all you need; you will not need to create a custom one.
 
mounts

I have to figure that out since moving the monitor closer means the input harness to monitor would not reach. It does not reach now. I stretched it out of the monitor metal mount to reach.

I think my upright has a 25 inch. Have to look, but it has a burn in the center of the screen.
Does not mess up play. I really need a new 25" tube. Maybe I will switch them.
 
Its all in the wrist

Wow! Vectors have a lot of adjustment pots on the pcb.
Star Wars has 8 pots on pcb and not clearly identified. (and 2 on flyback of monitor)
The operators manual tells you to make the adjustment, but not how to do them.
The Schematic package supplement explains on two pages how to and what pots to look for.
Once I figured it out, plus 2 hours later I got a nice working game.

Thanks to all for the help.

Steps:
-check all voltages :good
-test mode shows failed rams :replaced
-replaced AVG just for precaution
-adjusted pcb pots and monitor
-play game!
 

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Nice work

I only just did that on the weekend past. I documented all pot positions on the Game PCB and the Deflection board as it is a bit confusing at first

How many Rams were replaced?
 
Nice work

I only just did that on the weekend past. I documented all pot positions on the Game PCB and the Deflection board as it is a bit confusing at first

How many Rams were replaced?



3 or 4were bad so I replaced all 6 for comfort.
 
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