Star Wars cockpit from the beyond

1. Seems the logic board is working.
2. Seems the monitor is toast.

Can you borrow a scope to confirm #1?
Visually inspect #2 and order cap kit and transistor kits for both boards. May also need to replace other passives and discretes.

scope1.jpg
 
Better pictures of the HV and deflection boards
 

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From what I can tell, the power supply, AR and av/sound boards are ok so the problem would lie somewhere on the HV and or deflection board.

Is there in all in one kit with transistors for these boards?

Does the flyback always looked toasted inside like the picture above?

1. Seems the logic board is working.
2. Seems the monitor is toast.

Can you borrow a scope to confirm #1?
Visually inspect #2 and order cap kit and transistor kits for both boards. May also need to replace other passives and discretes.

scope1.jpg
 
I don't have access to a scope unfortunately, but again if anyone is near Modesto , I'd be happy to have them over providing beer or making the drive myself. :)

I'm enjoying this process and can't thank you guys enough for chiming in.
 
On your deflection board. Replace all of the "zero ohm" resistors with solid bare-wire jumpers. Those would be the tan colored resistor-looking things with the single black band on them. They are well known sources of grief.

Bare-wire jumpers can be cut from the excess/long leads of resistors or capacitors or if you actually have some tinned solid 24 to 24 ga wire then use that. It doesn't really have to be bare wire but that's what I use. I actually save a lot of the pieces that I cut off of long-leaded components whenever I populate PCBs and use the pieces in applications like this.

This upgrade is mentioned in the Amplifone FAQ. The jumper replacement is an important thing to do.

Bill B.
 
I just wanted to put an update out there due to being pretty busy lately.

Steps taken thus far:

*Rebuilt the HV board with Ian Kellogs rebuild kit
*Replaced all caps
*New Flyback from ArcadeShop

*Replaced all caps on deflection board
*Replaced the heatsink transistors 2N5886 etc

*New big blue
*New power cord as the old one still had a wire for ground.

I do have a couple of questions.. What is the light on the HV Board? I know the deflection board should light at power up and go out, which it does, but i have no light at the HV. Does this mean no HV?

The only thing I didnt replace on the HV so far, which I have are the 5w 50ohm resistors. I had a question in regards to proper installation before putting these in. If you look at the picture below at my HV board. Do these basically replace the 2 resistors at VR1 and VR2 (The charred portion right near the MC1?

Thanks again and any tips are appreciated. When I get home, I will test the 24V from the HV and the 30 from the deflection.

I have no light on the HV board or neck glow, but I do have the chatter.

Any input on what else to look into, please post.
 

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Last edited:
For answers, read the Amplifone FAQ. For the HV cage ->

>> If LED (CR2) is lighted, then the over-voltage protection circuit is activated.
 
Ok I did some testing and Vr1 pin 1 to 3 shows 30 volts input out of +30, pin 3 shows 30v output out of +24.

Vr2 shows -30 input of 30v, output is -29.4 out of 24v

Is the output to far out of range?

Thanks again for helping a new guy.
 
Yes, you have a bad regulator. (And probably other stuff too. Check the BU406D as well.)



Read the FAQ. It has all of the answers.



Also, you should upgrade those 50 ohm resistors, to either chassis-mount types, or TO-220 style ones, both of which mount on the heatsink, as the ones Atari added afterwards (poorly) get hot and burn up the board.

This is how I do mine:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=418350


Also see douglasgb's method:

http://www.gauck.com/arcade/sw/Amplifone-HV-TO220-ResistorMod.pdf
 
Gonna bump and update this.

Fixed a couple issues on the deflection board and its working.

Did some work on HV board.

BU406D was bad
Bad voltage regulator.
No square wave on pin 3 of timer. Socketed and replaced it. Now have square wave.
Replaced a few other parts that seemed suspect.
Now it's in HV shutdown.
Disabled HV shut down and it works with B+ and HV proportionate and within tolerance.
Need to find out why HV shutdown circuit is shutting it down when it shouldn't be.

Ran out of time and brain power.

Stay tuned.
 
Just a followup.

Thanks to the hard work and knowledge of ArcRevival, he was able to get the boards up and running. Hes a knowledagble guy and I truly appreciate the time he took to help me out. Anyone looking for similar board repairs, ArcRevival is the guy.

I brought the boards home, plugged them in and everything powered right up. Voltages look good and I just needed to adjust the orientation a bit.

Once I could see what was on the screen, I found that the Y axis was not working, so I opened up the yoke and found that the small gear is broken causing slippage on the pin. Does anyone happen to know if anyone sells these?

Aside from that, I just need to replace the zero ohm resistors and this machine has been successfully resurrected. :)
 
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