Star Wars Arcade help

cfawcett

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Hey all. Having some problems with my Atari Star Wars stand up.

I have an LV board installed and just replaced all 6 transistors. That was got it up and running after sitting for a decade. Worked for maybe a week, but I generally played it for 20 minutes and then powered down. Today I left it on for about an hour and I came back to the image posted here.

The Spot killer light is all all the time. Not flashing. Not sure if that's right or wrong.

The game plays. All the sounds work and things are happening. Just the monitor looks funky.

Any suggestion about where to look for repairs would be appreciated. THanks!

Cj
 

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Thanks for the reply. Can you give me a few more specifics? I'm kinda new to this. I've looked through the 6100 FAQ. Which board is the AVG and what part is the AVG chip and where would I get one?

Incidentally, I went out to the store and bought all new fuses because the one in the machine were really corroded. I also bought some contact cleaner. Cleaned all the contacts, including the two main connectors to the main board on the right hand side. Put it all back together and now I have no sound. :(

Cj
 
So question on the P900 test. Where do I connect my multimeter to ground?

Cj
 
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The AVG is the 40 pin chip on the game PCB that has the large silver area and the eight adjustment pots. Replacements have been made by a few people and are available at biltronics.com and arcadeshop.com and maybe others too.

Did you reconnect the cable between the smallest of the three boards (sound) and the main board?
 
First thing you want to know is if this is a monitor or board problem.

Do you have an o-scope that you can hook up to see if you're getting X/Y output? Or do you know someone else nearby with an SW you can test the board in? Or do you have another 6100 monitor you can either swap in or use an X/Y extension cord to plug into another X/Y game if you have one? Or maybe just try moving the other game close enough to plug the monitor in to the SW from the back?

If none of the above, I'd go with douglasb's suggestion and order up a replacement AVG board and try that.

Jon
 
I don't think a monitor problem. I get the white dot. I think it's the HV board. I have ~30V on all the pins except 5, which I get no reading off of.

CJ
 
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I don't think a monitor problem. I get the white dot. I think it's the HV board. I have ~30V on all the pins except 5, which I get no reading off of.

CJ

The HV boards is generating the dot at present
So you have a working HV board

Could be the Deflection Board or the game board right now

If you can narrow that down that would be best
Do you have another Atari XY Game to swap boards out of?
 
OK. Why do I not have any voltage on pin 5 then? I'm looking at the 6100 FAQ and on the troubleshooting flow chart it says if you have a white dot to check for 180V on pin 5 and if you don't have it there are some caps on the HV board that might be bad. Is this not correct?

I don't have another board to swap out. I can get a hold of an oscilloscope if there's something that will help test.

Cj
 
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And now I have no white dot. Sheesh. All I've done is plug and unplug some connectors and clean them and replace the fuses. Went from sounds, playable game and a funky screen to no sound, no screen.

Anyone know any repair guys around Charlotte, NC?

Also, can anyone explain to me what the Spot Killer light being on all the time means?

CJ
 
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The spot killer on the monitor deflection board is a failsafe: it lights up and is supposed to stop any image from appearing on the monitor if the output from the game boards is not correct. So in a working game it is off.
 
The spot killer on the monitor deflection board is a failsafe: it lights up and is supposed to stop any image from appearing on the monitor if the output from the game boards is not correct. So in a working game it is off.

So mine is on. Where does that mean I should look for trouble?

CJ
 
CJ, im going to assume you are new to repairs and try to help you in the right direction of understanding the components. do you have a manual??

this is an auto download pdf , 145 pages, download and save then print it off at staples or office depot .

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=...rs.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFKceAWhaGZx0PwnffogW-XeVY2YQ

i suggest to review the manual so you know what is what when members give advice.

the game side consists of 5 boards, and RFI shield ( it may be missing and will work fine without it ) an interconnect board, a main CPU, an AVG and a sound board.

does the game currently have sound? do you know how to get it in test mode? ( a switch in the coin door area) when in test mode what sounds does it make ? ( 16 beeps , a correct operating board set will have 16 high chimes, a mixture of low and high will help members to give advise)
do you own multi meter? the acronym is DMM and is what people will use for that tool here.
the power supply consists of two components , the "brick" or "suitcase" in the bottom as some call it , it takes current from the house supply and filters the AC and creates DC via a bridge rectifier . the second part is the AR11 that is the audio regulator board on the side of the metal cage . this board divides the DC current and supplies the game boards , sound, coin door ect.

are you certain you have a 6100 and not an amplifone? can you post a photo to help members determine what you have.

recapp, download print the manual and get familiar.
attempt test mode and report findings.
test power supply report findings.
Chris.
 
So after a I found a local guy that did a complete refurb, and after working a for about a year, I'm now back to the same problem I had when I originally posted. The local guy has gone MIA on me, so looking for some help again.

Spot killer is on. I basically have no image when the brightness is turned down. When it's turned up I get that weird shifting light shown in the image. The game blind plays. I have a multimeter, but not sure what I should be checking for and where.

I'm really new to this, but I have an EE that work that can help me with new components and soldering. I just have to figure out what is wrong.

THanks for any help.

Cj
 
Flip the test switch and then turn on the game. Listen for sixteen tones. If they are all the same, that's good. If not, count them and note which ones in the sequence sound different - the manual equates the number to a specific chip.

If all sounds good, then it's something beyond the purview of self-test, such as something in the analog section. But first, do you have the original 40 pin AVG chip in location 2J of the second big board? If so, replace it.
 
I have the multigame kit installed. I've read on these forums that those will cause ROM3 to error. So, that is not my issue, I don't think.

CJ
 
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Checked the voltages on the small board (sound board?) and got this:

TP1: 2.4V
TP2: 1.8V
TP4: -5V
TP5: 11.5V
TP6: 5V
TP7: 4.8V
TP11: 1.3V

I missed 8-10. They're tucked away and I didn't see them. Have to check that later.

Cj
 
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