Star Wars AR-02 not getting +5V

Pin 1 is closest to the fuse block. Read right to left, if looking down on the block, with the transformer on the right.

Pins 4 and 5 are DC ground, for the 10.3V. All of the other voltages are AC, so they are relative to the other pins mentioned in the list (i.e., 'to' means 'relative to' in what I provided.)

Tested everything again.

All AC voltages are testing out OK...so that's cool.

DC voltages are testing out at 0.2...doesn't seem to be registering any DC voltages at all.

Checked all fuses and they're good. I also replaced the Big Blue with a new one...no difference. Checked all my connections and they're correct. It has a new Big Blue and a new Bridge Rectifier in it now, both of which are good.

Thoughts on what to check next?

Thanks everyone for the input so far...hopefully I can get this thing fixed!
 
Also most likely, those white plastic Molex connector housings have the pin numbers molded into them adjacent to the holes. Just grab a decent magnifying glass and a bright light and look at it very closely and you'll see the numbers.

Bill B.


Yeah, I was going to say this too, but I looked at a random one of mine, and it didn't have them. However, that was on the part of the connector sticking out of the brick, looking down at the brick.

They are on the other sides of the connectors though, where the wires go in, on both halves of the connectors (i.e., under the brick, and also on the harness plugs.)
 
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Tested everything again.

All AC voltages are testing out OK...so that's cool.

DC voltages are testing out at 0.2...doesn't seem to be registering any DC voltages at all.

Checked all fuses and they're good. I also replaced the Big Blue with a new one...no difference. Checked all my connections and they're correct. It has a new Big Blue and a new Bridge Rectifier in it now, both of which are good.

Thoughts on what to check next?

Thanks everyone for the input so far...hopefully I can get this thing fixed!


Check the AC voltage going into the rectifier. You should see something there, though I'm not sure what it's supposed to be, but If you have AC there, then you should have DC on the + and - pins of the rectifier. Measure on the rectifier, just as a sanity check.
 
AC on orange wires to bridge. Not there? Then wiring or transformer issue. Check F3 fuse and contacts.

AMPLStarwarsPowerSupplySchematicDB.jpg
 
SUCCESS!!!

The bridge rectifier wasn't getting AC voltage. Suspected maybe a bad connection in the fuse block. So, I changed out the fuse block with a brand new one. Also changed the fuses with new ones.

Since the original bridge rectifier had tested bad, I thought that was it.

Looks like I had several things that cropped up at once. Thankfully I now have a new bridge rectifier, new big blue cap, new fuse block, and new fuses in place.

THANKS TO EVERYONE for the input! I couldn't have fixed it without all of your help! Love the helpfulness of the folks on the forum!
 
I'm now going to add reputation points to everyone that helped in this thread... :D
 
Sweet.


Note your old block can likely be cleaned up with a Dremel wire wheel brush or steel wool, etc. Same goes for the fuses. You can clean any corrosion off of them, if they aren't too bad.

An overnight soak in white vinegar followed by a light scrub will also clean up any heavier rust.

I just dislike throwing good original parts away when they can be saved, but that's just me.

Nice work!
 
Sweet.


Note your old block can likely be cleaned up with a Dremel wire wheel brush or steel wool, etc. Same goes for the fuses. You can clean any corrosion off of them, if they aren't too bad.

An overnight soak in white vinegar followed by a light scrub will also clean up any heavier rust.

I just dislike throwing good original parts away when they can be saved, but that's just me.

Nice work!

I'll definitely clean up the old fuse block, but I'll pitch the fuses. They weren't too terrible, but I'm not going to trust them.

;)
 
After I got this working, I decided to test my spare Star Wars boardset. Works great, but I noticed the video isn't lining up properly. I know there are the adjustment pots on the AVG board. Is there a good guide somewhere that describes what each pot does for adjustment? The diamond pattern in the test screen is tilted and the shapes don't line up against the edges.

Thanks!
 
After I got this working, I decided to test my spare Star Wars boardset. Works great, but I noticed the video isn't lining up properly. I know there are the adjustment pots on the AVG board. Is there a good guide somewhere that describes what each pot does for adjustment? The diamond pattern in the test screen is tilted and the shapes don't line up against the edges.

Thanks!


Just play with them, and the purposes of each should become apparent. Use the test screens. The BIP pots have the greatest effect on the diagonal crosshatch, as far as lining up the overall picture.

The X and Y linearity adjust the size at the edges of the screen, to make the square crosshatch squares the same size at the edges as they are in the middle. The other two are just X and Y size and centering.

You can't really damage anything, aside from cranking the X and Y size all the way to max at the same time, which could be bad. Start everything in the center positions and tweak from there, and you'll be good.
 
... I noticed the video isn't lining up properly. I know there are the adjustment pots on the AVG board. Is there a good guide somewhere that describes what each pot does for adjustment? The diamond pattern in the test screen is tilted and the shapes don't line up against the edges.

Some versions of the AVG board do not have labels on the pots. Here you go:

http://www.gauck.com/arcade/SW/SW AVG Adjustments.pdf
 
Thanks again guys! I've got it dialed in pretty nice now!
 
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